FDG336RES0 Frigidaire Dryer - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Stephen from HICKSVILLE, OH
- Parts Used:
- 134503600, 5303281153, 131825900
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
Had a squelch/squeak coming from the rear of the unit
I looked up a YouTube video on my specific model. Found one that said “basic disassembly”. I watched that and had it apart and back together in no time. Very easy to take apart and put new parts back in it. Re-assembled and since the repair no squeaking.
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- Customer:
- Paula from Somerset, MA
- Parts Used:
- 5303937139, 5303283286
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
tub rubbing, clother getting stuck and burning
removed old seal and drum glide. sanded off old glue. replaced with new parts, cleaned out the whole bottom of the dryer, runs good as new.
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- Customer:
- Ron from Senatobia, MS
- Parts Used:
- 5303281153
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Dryer drum stopped spinning
First I took the drum out of the dryer. This was an easy tear down. I had to remember 2 wires, and a belt assembly ( 2 pullies ). I removed 3 screws inside the drum to release the bearing assembly from the back. Then I went to the dryer chasis and removed the mounting bracket by removing 2 screws. I simply replaced the mounting bracket with the new one. This required having to use a magnet to hold a small ball bearing in place while I worked the rest of the pieces in position.I greased it up and went back to the drum. I replaced the old bearing assembly with the new one. Easy. I took the time to shop-vac the inside of the dryer. There was a lot of loose lint, candy rappers, coins, etc. Finally, I put it back together. Unfortunately, this is the forth (4th) time I've had to do this. It's cheaper than buying a new dryer. Now, I've got to fix the washer.
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- Customer:
- Mark from HGHLNDS RANCH, CO
- Parts Used:
- 5303281153
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
load squeal
replaced rear drum bearing kit. Watched video made it real easy. The only problem was getting the belt back on the pulleys.
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- Customer:
- Sharon from UXBRIDGE, MA
- Parts Used:
- 134503600
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Broken belt
Watched video sent to me after I purchased belt on line. Super helpful!
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dryer was squealing loadly
took off face of dryer, removed drum 4 screws removed two srews holding bearing and shaft ,replaced shaft bearing and shaft . Just for preventive maintenance i replaced idleling arm and dryer belt. I lined everything up replaced drum used shop vac to clean lint and dust from all parts replaced face of dryer and boom i got a btand new dryer
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- Customer:
- David from Orange Park, FL
- Parts Used:
- 5303937139
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Dryer drum upper seal worn
First I removed power from dryer. Then I lifted the lid and removed the 2 screws holding the front onto the dryer. I then used a pair of pliers to grip the seal and help pull it off. Cleaned off old adhesive. Recommend getting GOOP BE GONE. Then apply high temp sealant onto area and place seal on top. Press firmly across it to make sure it is in place. Then put it all back together and your done. Also, if upper seal is worn.recommend ordering lower seal at same time. I didn't and should have. Save yourself from doing this twice.
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- Customer:
- Francis from Middletown, NY
- Parts Used:
- 134503600
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Socket set
Tumbler not moving
Removed back panel. Popped off top of dryer, then removed front of dryer. Slid belt onto tumbler, put front cover back on, put top back on and adjusted belt frombottom panel cover.
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- Customer:
- Plamen from Alexandria, VA
- Parts Used:
- 5303937139
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
screeching dryer
Open the top cover by pushing the retention clips in from the front (just under the top edge) with the putty knife - that was the hardest to figure out - I found it online.
The rest is just 4 screws - 2 inside to release the plastic filter holder and two on the inner edges of the front panel.
Took the front off, ripped the old slider, cleaned the glue residue with alcohol and mineral spirits and a lot of scrubbing, vacuumed all the lint from the fan.
Then glued the new slider in place and clamped it together. Didnt know how long the glue takes so I left it overnight, just in case.
It works well now. Cleaning the ducts and the fan with the vacuum hose made a world of an efficiency difference. They should make an easy way to do this for regular maintenance!
The rest is just 4 screws - 2 inside to release the plastic filter holder and two on the inner edges of the front panel.
Took the front off, ripped the old slider, cleaned the glue residue with alcohol and mineral spirits and a lot of scrubbing, vacuumed all the lint from the fan.
Then glued the new slider in place and clamped it together. Didnt know how long the glue takes so I left it overnight, just in case.
It works well now. Cleaning the ducts and the fan with the vacuum hose made a world of an efficiency difference. They should make an easy way to do this for regular maintenance!
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- Customer:
- greg from great cacapon, WV
- Parts Used:
- 5303281153
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
squeaking dryer driving insane
First removed the top of the dryer, then the front of the dryer. Took the plate off the back left of the dryer to disengage the belt off the pulley.
Took the three screws out that hold the drum in place, of course the third screw stripped and had to use a screw remover, which didn't work, but the adjustable pliers did so then lifted the drum out of the plastic reservoir in which the bearing laid. Next unscrewed the two bolts holding the plastic reservoir which also loosened the small metal piece on the back of the dryer where a small bearing is located. Put the new parts in, but instead of putting the larger bearing that fits in the plastic reservoir, I decided to put it on the drum first and guide it into the reservoir all at once, this worked well . Prior to that I put the new plastic piece on the inside and taped it there while holding that piece put the small metal piece with the small bearing on the back of the dryer. I'm sure it is alot easier with two people doing this part, but it worked and I didn't lose the small bearing. Next put the front of the dryer back on and then put the belt back on the pulley, then the top.
It definitely helped immensely to read how someone did this, just follow the instructions given and there you go, no more annoying squeak and also a feeling of accomplishment and thanks to the person who wrote the story on how to do this job, appreciate it.
Took the three screws out that hold the drum in place, of course the third screw stripped and had to use a screw remover, which didn't work, but the adjustable pliers did so then lifted the drum out of the plastic reservoir in which the bearing laid. Next unscrewed the two bolts holding the plastic reservoir which also loosened the small metal piece on the back of the dryer where a small bearing is located. Put the new parts in, but instead of putting the larger bearing that fits in the plastic reservoir, I decided to put it on the drum first and guide it into the reservoir all at once, this worked well . Prior to that I put the new plastic piece on the inside and taped it there while holding that piece put the small metal piece with the small bearing on the back of the dryer. I'm sure it is alot easier with two people doing this part, but it worked and I didn't lose the small bearing. Next put the front of the dryer back on and then put the belt back on the pulley, then the top.
It definitely helped immensely to read how someone did this, just follow the instructions given and there you go, no more annoying squeak and also a feeling of accomplishment and thanks to the person who wrote the story on how to do this job, appreciate it.
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- Customer:
- Robert from Camby, IN
- Parts Used:
- 5303937139, 5303283286
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
burn marks on clothes
Taking apart the dryer was easy. Pop the top, take out two screws, separate the front panel from the drum. Removed the old felt seals but much remained. Used a wire wheel on my drill to clean off felt and old glue (most difficult part). Applied new glue,used a band clamp, one hour later I reassembled the dryer; works fine. No more burn marks on clothes!
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- Customer:
- JOHN from St Peters, MO
- Parts Used:
- 134503600, 5303937139
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Clothes caught between drum and felt, leaving stains
First, I popped the two clips that hold on the top. Then, I removed two screws and unplugged a few wire connectors to remove the front panel. I scraped off the felt, which was rubbing the drum since the white plastic glides had worn completely through. I applied the high-temp adhesive liberally, laid on the new felt, and applied some spring clamps to hold it in place. I removed the small back panel to replace the belt, which was really easy with the dryer apart. The 7-year-old original belt was a little cracked.
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- Customer:
- Lincoln from rio rancho, NM
- Parts Used:
- 131863007, 134503600, 5303937139, 131825900
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Brown spots on my 'draws - from the DRYER!
First of all, I LOVE Partselect.com.. The parts are reasonable, and arrive in a timely fashion.. The repair stories are far and away, one of the BEST features of this website - so hats off to the DIY'ers who have helped me overcome my challenges and helped me stay in the ..ahem.. "favorable" graces of my wife.. I need all the help I can get there.. Anyway, read the other repair stories first - LOTS of great insight.. I only have a couple pointers to add - below...
This is easily my 4th appliance repair project with Partselect.com, and I can say without a doubt that the experience has been positive every single time.. Until now.. I got the dryer torn down and realized that I SHOULD have ordered the SEAL-BASKET LOWER felt with my original order. When I inspected it for my list of parts to order, the upper glide was thrashed - no brainer.. I thought the lower felt was fine.. d'oh! I discovered this morning that I was wrong.. So, I JUST ordered the lower basket seal for *next* weekend.. (If you are gonna replace the original upper glide, replace the lower basket seal as well..) It'll be a slam dunk, though..
Now, for a couple useful tips:
If you are a car guy, get out your trusty can of brake parts cleaner to help clean off the old adhesive residue after you rip off the old upper glide felt. I also used a 1" plastic scraper to help facilitate removal, but the brake parts cleaner was a Godsend. I think I read someone else's suggestion to use "goof off" or whatever - but I couldn't find mine, so..... ...out came the brake cleaner... :) two thumbs up. Just use it sparingly - all those solvents are bad for children in California for some odd reason..
Spring loaded clamps to hold the felt down as the glue dries are also "nice to have". I used one on each end of the felt, and one for each of the teflon / plastic glides..
Finally - milk this job for all it's worth - it'll only take you 45-60 minutes or so... good luck...!!!
This is easily my 4th appliance repair project with Partselect.com, and I can say without a doubt that the experience has been positive every single time.. Until now.. I got the dryer torn down and realized that I SHOULD have ordered the SEAL-BASKET LOWER felt with my original order. When I inspected it for my list of parts to order, the upper glide was thrashed - no brainer.. I thought the lower felt was fine.. d'oh! I discovered this morning that I was wrong.. So, I JUST ordered the lower basket seal for *next* weekend.. (If you are gonna replace the original upper glide, replace the lower basket seal as well..) It'll be a slam dunk, though..
Now, for a couple useful tips:
If you are a car guy, get out your trusty can of brake parts cleaner to help clean off the old adhesive residue after you rip off the old upper glide felt. I also used a 1" plastic scraper to help facilitate removal, but the brake parts cleaner was a Godsend. I think I read someone else's suggestion to use "goof off" or whatever - but I couldn't find mine, so..... ...out came the brake cleaner... :) two thumbs up. Just use it sparingly - all those solvents are bad for children in California for some odd reason..
Spring loaded clamps to hold the felt down as the glue dries are also "nice to have". I used one on each end of the felt, and one for each of the teflon / plastic glides..
Finally - milk this job for all it's worth - it'll only take you 45-60 minutes or so... good luck...!!!
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- Customer:
- John from Avis, PA
- Parts Used:
- 5303281153
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Loud squealing
As all others have said, without being redundant, I'd view post #1 or #2 for a good detailed set of instructions.
The primary issue I had was with the stainless steel ball bearing that was shipped with the kit. I couldn't figure out what it was used for, because when I removed the bearing carrier the ball fell out before I could see where the original one was located. The stainless ball bearing is a grounding ball, not a bearing. It goes on the exterior of the plastic bearing carrier/receiver.
Once I figured that part out, it was a piece of cake.
Took a little longer than other people's repairs, but I also put a new belt on and re-worked the exhaust duct for solid ducting versus flexible duct. fine-tuning the rigid duct work was a piece of cake with the tumbler out, since i could crawl right inside the chassis and make sure everything would line up (level legs, adjust elbows, etc)
The primary issue I had was with the stainless steel ball bearing that was shipped with the kit. I couldn't figure out what it was used for, because when I removed the bearing carrier the ball fell out before I could see where the original one was located. The stainless ball bearing is a grounding ball, not a bearing. It goes on the exterior of the plastic bearing carrier/receiver.
Once I figured that part out, it was a piece of cake.
Took a little longer than other people's repairs, but I also put a new belt on and re-worked the exhaust duct for solid ducting versus flexible duct. fine-tuning the rigid duct work was a piece of cake with the tumbler out, since i could crawl right inside the chassis and make sure everything would line up (level legs, adjust elbows, etc)
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- Customer:
- Cory from Fargo, ND
- Parts Used:
- 134503600, 5303937139, 5303283286
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Dryer ripped and left brown marks on clothes
This was a simple repair. Before I ordered the parts I had read several of the "repair stories" on this site, plus my neighbor explained to me the process. So I had a good idea of what I was getting into.
I am not real sure how long it took because I was watching a football game while I was making the repair, but I would guess if I did it straight through it would be about 1 hr.
Replacing the Drum Glide and Lower Basket Seal
1) Pulled dryer out from the wall
2) Unplugged Dryer
3) Pop the top off the dryer. Insert a screw driver in the crack right at the corners to pry
the top off.
4) My dryer had a quick connector for all the wiring (which I found half way through the
repair) that allowed me to disconnect all the wires leading to the door. If you can find
that disconnect that so you can easily remove the door & front panel.
5) Removed two screws holding the front panel on.
6) Remove the front panel. Once the 2 screws are removed the only thing holding my
front panel on were a couple of clips.
7) Removed the Drum Glide (top) & Lower Basket Seal (bottom) around the door frame in
the front panel. This is the worst part because you have to scrape a lot of the glue
and it takes a little while to do this.
8) Glue the Drum Glide. I used some spring clamps to hold it in place. Glue did come with
the Drum Glide (but not the Lower Basket Seal)
9) Glue the Lower Basket Seal. Since I only had 4 spring clamps I waited until the Drum
Glide was secure. So if you have several of these clamps that would be best.
** if not replacing the belt skip that section.
Replacing Dryer Drum Belt
I took a lot of the people's advise and replaced the belt while I had the dryer apart. But if you are only replacing the belt perform steps 1 - 6 above first.
1) Remove the access panel on the back of the dryer. Mine had for screws.
2) Remove the belt. There is a spring loaded pulley that you just move to one side so the
belt will loosen up enough to remove.
3) Place the new belt on. I started in the front and moved the belt over the drum to the
back. Then moved to the back of the dryer and through the access panel placed the
belt over the pulleys.
Thats pretty much it. I barely got dirty. Oh, while I was in there I cleaned as much lint as I could. That was the dirty part. Now all you have to do is put it back together.
1) Reconnect the front panel, and wire harness.
2) Plug it back in.
If you are wondering why I didn't replace the bearing, I didn't have any grease and the part fit but didn't look exactly like the current one. And the current one looked ok. Since this was my first attempt at fixing a dryer; I decided not to press my luck.
I am not real sure how long it took because I was watching a football game while I was making the repair, but I would guess if I did it straight through it would be about 1 hr.
Replacing the Drum Glide and Lower Basket Seal
1) Pulled dryer out from the wall
2) Unplugged Dryer
3) Pop the top off the dryer. Insert a screw driver in the crack right at the corners to pry
the top off.
4) My dryer had a quick connector for all the wiring (which I found half way through the
repair) that allowed me to disconnect all the wires leading to the door. If you can find
that disconnect that so you can easily remove the door & front panel.
5) Removed two screws holding the front panel on.
6) Remove the front panel. Once the 2 screws are removed the only thing holding my
front panel on were a couple of clips.
7) Removed the Drum Glide (top) & Lower Basket Seal (bottom) around the door frame in
the front panel. This is the worst part because you have to scrape a lot of the glue
and it takes a little while to do this.
8) Glue the Drum Glide. I used some spring clamps to hold it in place. Glue did come with
the Drum Glide (but not the Lower Basket Seal)
9) Glue the Lower Basket Seal. Since I only had 4 spring clamps I waited until the Drum
Glide was secure. So if you have several of these clamps that would be best.
** if not replacing the belt skip that section.
Replacing Dryer Drum Belt
I took a lot of the people's advise and replaced the belt while I had the dryer apart. But if you are only replacing the belt perform steps 1 - 6 above first.
1) Remove the access panel on the back of the dryer. Mine had for screws.
2) Remove the belt. There is a spring loaded pulley that you just move to one side so the
belt will loosen up enough to remove.
3) Place the new belt on. I started in the front and moved the belt over the drum to the
back. Then moved to the back of the dryer and through the access panel placed the
belt over the pulleys.
Thats pretty much it. I barely got dirty. Oh, while I was in there I cleaned as much lint as I could. That was the dirty part. Now all you have to do is put it back together.
1) Reconnect the front panel, and wire harness.
2) Plug it back in.
If you are wondering why I didn't replace the bearing, I didn't have any grease and the part fit but didn't look exactly like the current one. And the current one looked ok. Since this was my first attempt at fixing a dryer; I decided not to press my luck.
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