MDG336RES0 Frigidaire Dryer - Instructions

there are several srcews to remove. there are some u dont have to take out but it looks like u do.ease of the front panel and remove the old drum glide,very hard to get of all the felt.check the the bottom guide before u order parts if possible(i could've replaced mine,but didnt have time to check it first).when glue back in place follow directions exact and clamp.allow glue to dry as long as u can. mine set overnight it was nice and dry(if u dont you'll be doing it all over again)replace everything as you took them off.all works great perfect fit!!

I looked up a YouTube video on my specific model. Found one that said “basic disassembly”. I watched that and had it apart and back together in no time. Very easy to take apart and put new parts back in it. Re-assembled and since the repair no squeaking.

took off face of dryer, removed drum 4 screws removed two srews holding bearing and shaft ,replaced shaft bearing and shaft . Just for preventive maintenance i replaced idleling arm and dryer belt. I lined everything up replaced drum used shop vac to clean lint and dust from all parts replaced face of dryer and boom i got a btand new dryer

removed old seal and drum glide. sanded off old glue. replaced with new parts, cleaned out the whole bottom of the dryer, runs good as new.

First I took the drum out of the dryer. This was an easy tear down. I had to remember 2 wires, and a belt assembly ( 2 pullies ). I removed 3 screws inside the drum to release the bearing assembly from the back. Then I went to the dryer chasis and removed the mounting bracket by removing 2 screws. I simply replaced the mounting bracket with the new one. This required having to use a magnet to hold a small ball bearing in place while I worked the rest of the pieces in position.I greased it up and went back to the drum. I replaced the old bearing assembly with the new one. Easy. I took the time to shop-vac the inside of the dryer. There was a lot of loose lint, candy rappers, coins, etc. Finally, I put it back together. Unfortunately, this is the forth (4th) time I've had to do this. It's cheaper than buying a new dryer. Now, I've got to fix the washer.

i used one screw driver universal to pop off the cover then, i unscrewed the 2 screws off one on the left side and one on the right side, then useing the screw driver i popped off the left and right off the dryer houseing body their are 2 wires 2 unplug then at the back of the dryer theirs a vent 4 screw take then off then take off the belt then on screw the drum from in side pull out the drum,then 2 more wires to unplug now take off the blower housing with the motor and unscrewed the fan then your done. put it back the same way 15 to 30 mins

Removed back panel. Popped off top of dryer, then removed front of dryer. Slid belt onto tumbler, put front cover back on, put top back on and adjusted belt frombottom panel cover.

First removed the top of the dryer, then the front of the dryer. Took the plate off the back left of the dryer to disengage the belt off the pulley.
Took the three screws out that hold the drum in place, of course the third screw stripped and had to use a screw remover, which didn't work, but the adjustable pliers did so then lifted the drum out of the plastic reservoir in which the bearing laid. Next unscrewed the two bolts holding the plastic reservoir which also loosened the small metal piece on the back of the dryer where a small bearing is located. Put the new parts in, but instead of putting the larger bearing that fits in the plastic reservoir, I decided to put it on the drum first and guide it into the reservoir all at once, this worked well . Prior to that I put the new plastic piece on the inside and taped it there while holding that piece put the small metal piece with the small bearing on the back of the dryer. I'm sure it is alot easier with two people doing this part, but it worked and I didn't lose the small bearing. Next put the front of the dryer back on and then put the belt back on the pulley, then the top.
It definitely helped immensely to read how someone did this, just follow the instructions given and there you go, no more annoying squeak and also a feeling of accomplishment and thanks to the person who wrote the story on how to do this job, appreciate it.

lacked instructions. Internet yielded a simple paragraph. Scored real bonus when we discovered the lint build up past the internal filter was approaching catastropic level. Replaced the exhaust tube (plastic) with rigid metal and resolved to disassemble and clean dryer on 2 year cycle in future. Kit just isn't complete without detailed instructions. Parts were complete and sufficient. Local codes have eliminated the plactic exhaust tube. Recommend that all old installs refit to rigid or semirigid before the fire happens!

Found instructions, correct except for 2 screws at the bottom of the kickplate, which turned out to be 2 philips head screws at top holding control panel to case. Would advise using gloves when holding drum, because front and rear lips are very sharp. This is the second time drum guide and lower basket seal where replaced. First time was in 2006. Saved a bunch of money by doing repair myself. If I had to pay for service call and parts replacement I probability considered replacing unit rather than repair.

I lifted the top at the front edge, slid the top back, disconnected the ground wire connected to the top at the rear edge, just slides off.
Then removed the phillips screws on the inside front edge, only one on each side,near top of dryer disconnect the wiring harness at the right side, cut the nylon tie strap holding harness also.
Tip front panel out a little and lift up, comes right off.
The coils are in plain site on the gas valve, remove the wires, and the two screws holding the bracket that holdes them in place, slide the old ones off and start putting back together.
I also used a vacume and cleaned all the lint and dust off everything I could, including the air intake at the rear of machine, "Peice of Cake"

This was a simple repair. Before I ordered the parts I had read several of the "repair stories" on this site, plus my neighbor explained to me the process. So I had a good idea of what I was getting into.

I am not real sure how long it took because I was watching a football game while I was making the repair, but I would guess if I did it straight through it would be about 1 hr.

Replacing the Drum Glide and Lower Basket Seal
1) Pulled dryer out from the wall
2) Unplugged Dryer
3) Pop the top off the dryer. Insert a screw driver in the crack right at the corners to pry
the top off.
4) My dryer had a quick connector for all the wiring (which I found half way through the
repair) that allowed me to disconnect all the wires leading to the door. If you can find
that disconnect that so you can easily remove the door & front panel.
5) Removed two screws holding the front panel on.
6) Remove the front panel. Once the 2 screws are removed the only thing holding my
front panel on were a couple of clips.
7) Removed the Drum Glide (top) & Lower Basket Seal (bottom) around the door frame in
the front panel. This is the worst part because you have to scrape a lot of the glue
and it takes a little while to do this.
8) Glue the Drum Glide. I used some spring clamps to hold it in place. Glue did come with
the Drum Glide (but not the Lower Basket Seal)
9) Glue the Lower Basket Seal. Since I only had 4 spring clamps I waited until the Drum
Glide was secure. So if you have several of these clamps that would be best.
** if not replacing the belt skip that section.

Replacing Dryer Drum Belt
I took a lot of the people's advise and replaced the belt while I had the dryer apart. But if you are only replacing the belt perform steps 1 - 6 above first.
1) Remove the access panel on the back of the dryer. Mine had for screws.
2) Remove the belt. There is a spring loaded pulley that you just move to one side so the
belt will loosen up enough to remove.
3) Place the new belt on. I started in the front and moved the belt over the drum to the
back. Then moved to the back of the dryer and through the access panel placed the
belt over the pulleys.

Thats pretty much it. I barely got dirty. Oh, while I was in there I cleaned as much lint as I could. That was the dirty part. Now all you have to do is put it back together.
1) Reconnect the front panel, and wire harness.
2) Plug it back in.

If you are wondering why I didn't replace the bearing, I didn't have any grease and the part fit but didn't look exactly like the current one. And the current one looked ok. Since this was my first attempt at fixing a dryer; I decided not to press my luck.

Removed the door and replace the upper glide and the lower seal. The repair was easy.

Follwed all the other comments real easy

As all others have said, without being redundant, I'd view post #1 or #2 for a good detailed set of instructions.

The primary issue I had was with the stainless steel ball bearing that was shipped with the kit. I couldn't figure out what it was used for, because when I removed the bearing carrier the ball fell out before I could see where the original one was located. The stainless ball bearing is a grounding ball, not a bearing. It goes on the exterior of the plastic bearing carrier/receiver.

Once I figured that part out, it was a piece of cake.

Took a little longer than other people's repairs, but I also put a new belt on and re-worked the exhaust duct for solid ducting versus flexible duct. fine-tuning the rigid duct work was a piece of cake with the tumbler out, since i could crawl right inside the chassis and make sure everything would line up (level legs, adjust elbows, etc)