FDG8971EW3 Frigidaire Dryer - Instructions

unplugged the dryer, discontected the sensor and unscrewed the bracket, replaced the new one and put the connectors back on, screwed the bracket back on and that was it. Very easy fix for a female who does not do much of these sort of repairs but learning.

I opened the top of the dryer to gain access to the outside of the drum. Then I removed the screws holding the old drum veins in using the electric drill with the nut driver attachment. Then I positioned the new veins in place on the inside of the drum and replaced the screws from the outside of the drum to hold the veins in place. Then I replaced the top and was ready to go.

This is the third repair that I have done using parts from parts select. the other two repairs involved replacing electrical parts. Specifically thermostatic controls or swicthes. I am very happy with the parts and the diagrams provided on your web site without wich I would have had to replace my dryer a long time ago.

I popped the knobs on without tools. Easy! I saved $36.00 buying directly from you instead of my local repair man

This unit is a stackable washer&dryer,so first pull unit away from wall atleast 4 foot. Unplug power cord,then take10 dagree front panel off then the control panel off and unplug the 5 connetors if your unit has that many,then lay panel asside. Take dryer door off,makes it easier when putting it all back together. Now take front panel off and the dryer lent tube,now just take the 3 center phillips head screws out and slide drum out. Pull upward on what they call the shaft which held drum on. Now these are the parts you should order. Belt,grounding ball clip,grounding ball,drum support bearing,bearing bracket,and most important part is the shaft. The shaft is ur insurance for the whole job. Use a good grease like white lithium grease and coat the shaft end and the drum support bearing. The grease will cut down on friction for a while,and re assemble the way you took apart. Reminder grounding ball goes behind drum support bearing not in front. Good luck and please vaccum.

had to remove the belt and drum and then remove the motor and replace it...put the belt on and then the hard part was to get the drum in place without the belt coming off. New Motor works quieter than the old one did, so I assume the dryer came with a defective motor to begin with and then the shaft finally broke. It runs very quiet now, but never did before. Even a service man came when it was new but said that was normal. Now we know it was not....there was a problem from the start.

First use a vacum to remove all the dust and lint inside the dryer fraim

Some problims removing old rear drum bearing assembly. Also removing old drum guide bottom Adhesive.
I used a new wire brush, but if I had a brush that fit a drill this would have been better to remove the adhesive.

I then applied the Glue, drum seal and small clamps to hold in place so the glue could dry overnight the next day 30 mins and the dryer was back togeather.

First I located the two clips holding the top of the machine on and opened the top of the dryer. I then disconnected the two wires on the door switch and removed the two screws holding the front panel on. After removing the front panel, I vacuumed all the loose lint and as far into the lint trap as possible. I then removed the back vent panel and released the drum belt from the pulley. I pulled the drum out of the support bearing. Then I removed two screws holding the drum support bearing, bracket, and grounding ball clip. I replaced the grounding ball and drum support bearing with new parts, (as the drum support bearing was damaged without the grounding ball). Then I reversed the order and put the dryer back together. Overall I felt the job was easy and I'm happy to be able to use a quiet machine again!!!

White Westinghouse WDG547PB Dryer. Removed access panel (lower left front of dryer) by removing phillips head screw below access panel. Removed two phillips head screws holding bracket that holds coil in place. Removed coil, disconnected electrical connector. Connected electrical connector to new coil and set in place. Repeat for second coil. Reinstall bracket and access panel. Job complete. Dryer back in service with no problems.

I read your suggested test to determine where the problem was that was making the machine not start.
Got part . Took off back control panel. I put the part on as your instructions guided me . SUCCESS!
I set the timer and pushed the button and the dryer began turning immediately.

Removed dryer front, unscrewed 3 screws in center hub, replaced bearing assembly. Removed old basket seal with razor scraper, cleaned surface with mineral spirits, applied new basket seal. Replaced dryer front and project was done. Dryer has no more sqeaks.

Unplug dryer (gotta say it). Remove the two screws that hold in the lint catch. Remove top of dryer (two screws in back hold brackets, the front snaps on). remove two screws along the front edge to take front panel off the dryer (there are also clips). Unhook the two electrical connectors that control the door shut off. Once the front is off, remove the old glide and felt and install the new parts. Be sure not to step on the tube of contact cement, making it explode inside the bag. That sucked. Reassemble.

Internet Search suggested that I check the Igniter, Sensor, thermal cutoff and Ignition Coils. down in the bottom of the Gas Dryer. With top cover off and front panel on, I put a mirror down in the bottom of the Dryer. I watched to see if the Igniter and the Sensor would turn on the Gas Valve. In the reflection of the Mirror, I could see a glow, but heard NO clicks. Repeated several times. Same Result. I suspected the Ignition Coils were faulty.

You suggested replacing BOTH. Parts arrived in 2 days. :-) Easy disassemble and reassemble with screwdriver. (Front Panel must be removed). While I was at it, I replaced the Drive Belt, too. It was 6 years old.
Everything worked fine.
After 6 years in a Garage, the Dryer was filled with Dust. Use the opportunity to Vacuum out the dust.

got new door handle, inserted and clipped into place, no tools needed, time to repair 5 secs, 1 sec to insert handle, 4 secs to open and shut door numerous times to make sure it was in right. Washer and dryer are over 10 years old, but I like them because you can repair them if something breaks, with the newer models don't know if you can do this.

Make sure you order a new belt and a new drum glide with the rear drum bearing assembly. If your bearing is worn out, so are the belt and drum glide!

1) Use a flat screw driver or putty knife to release the blind clips that hold the front side of the top of the dryer cabinet down
2) Swing dryer top up and remove two screws that hold the face of the cabinet.
3) Unplug the wiring harness and remove the cabinet face.
4) Remove the 3 screws that hold the drum to the bearing assembly (accessed from inside the drum. This makes it easier to remove the drum as the bearing assembly can be difficult to remove before you see how it snaps together
5) Reach under the drum and take the belt off the motor pulley, then remove the drum
6) Remove the old bearing assembly from the socket (slide up then out)
7) Remove the two screws that hold the bearing socket to the dryer
8) Fasten the new socket to the dryer (you'll need help doing this unless you have REALLY long arms because you have to reach inside the driver and the back of the dryer at the same time)
9) Grease the socket with the supplied high temp grease
10) Bolt the new bearing assembly to the drum and put the new belt around the drum
11) Put the drum back in and snap the bearing socket in and down
12) Guide the new belt around the motor pulley & tensioner
13) Glue the new drum glide / felt piece to the front cabinet
14) Put the cabinet back together

Had to pretty much disassemble the entire dryer. The schematics on the web site made it a snap to do. One word of advice. I you have to replace the rear drum assembly, the drum has to come out the front of the dryer. Part select made this a very positive experience.