DE700EDD5 Frigidaire Dryer - Instructions

My local repair parts shop did not have the part in stock. Shipping was really fast, so I repaired the dryer in less time than it would have taken if I had let my local shop order the belt for me. Repair was simple, just unplug dryer, pry up the front of the top, remove 4 screws from the top inside of front panel, disconnect two wires from door switch, pull front off, and slip belt around tub. Remove small panel on rear (2 screws), place belt around pulley and move tensioner in place. Reassemble front panel and rear panel.

the catch on the door was worn and cracked.... so I noticed it could be easily popped out with a screw driver and when the new part came in the mail 2 days later, it was just as easy to pop back in with no tools required. Now the door stays shut really good!!!

First make sure dryer is unplugged.Next beware of sharp edges, this dryer has plenty. Remove 2 screws from kick panel,remove kick panel. Lay the kick panel aside, it makes a good "bowl" to hold screws.Remove 2 screws from top, located on back,remove top.Unplug the 2 sets of wiring connecting the front panel, the zip tie has to be unzipped, and if stripped should be replaced when reassembling. Remove 2 screws inside cabinet that hold front panel, near top. Remove 2 screws that hold front panel, in front and at bottom of front panel. Front panel is held in place by spring loaded clips, remove by pulling outward,a putty knife may be slid in to persuade it to pop off, be careful of scratching paint. There is a small panel on the back of the dryer held by 2 screws, remove to access the pulley that maintains tension on belt and release belt. Pay attention to the belt route through the tensioner to insure eaiser assembly later. Remove nylon drum retainer in front of cabinet at top, held in place by 1 screw. The drum may be lifted out and placed aside to access the heating unit(Don't place it on a hill, HaHa). The entire heating unit may be replaced, I opted to replace just the element, as it is much cheaper.
Use a flat screw driver to slip old female plugs off male element plugs, Use needle nose pliers to flatten tabs that hold male plugs of element in the ceramic housing. Remove old element, being careful not to damage any of the insulators. If the new element is not stretched out to about 46 inches "relaxed", carefully stretch it. Place one insulator slightly off-center on the element and place it into element housing. Plug in element into ceramic plug housing and bend the tabs to retain it. carefully begin putting in insulators, one at a time and reattaching element. Do not bend the element or cause any of the coils to touch each other. When all insulators are in place, plug in element and assemble dryer in reverse order. Mke sure belt is oriented with grooved side facing drum, and reach through the rear access panel to run belt through tensioner, make sure spring is attached with s-hook ends and belt is properly threaded. Reaasmble in reverse order, being careful to make sure drum bearing is seated properly, and drum "ring" of front panel is centered in drum. After dryer is assembled try it out on cool and work your way up to hot, and let it run a few minutes to get rid the new smell. Hope this will help.

All I did was push the new part into the machine! So easy!

I unplugged the dryer. Undid the top by taking out 2 screws and mounts on each side of the back. There were two screws in the front panel that had to be removed. One on each side. Then I took the two wires off the killer switch on the door. Marking which was top and which was bottom. Then I removed the front panel. Then I undid the drum which had 3 screws in. I took out the drum to find the problem. I replaced the drum putting the belt on. Then I took off the back panel at the bottom of the dryer to get at the idler arm. Took off the spring and unhooked the arm. I put the new arm on and replaced the spring. I then put the belt on to the pulley and closed up the back panel. I put back the front panel. I put the top back on. I plugged it back in and turned it on and it worked!

Removed 4 screws from 8" service panel from rear of dryer removed panel
Removed 4 screws holding rear of dryer top, removed rear brackets. compressed spring retainers on front of dryer top, removed dryer top.
Removed 2 screws from inside of dryer front, removed dryer front.
Removed old belt, cleaned machine, installed new belt on dryer drum, inspected rear service panel to insure belt had reached the drive motor.
Reinstalled front of dryer, being sure to hold drum up in position to match front panel..
Went back to rear service panel and installed belt on motor pulley and tension pulley.
Set top back on dryer, test ran dryer for short time to ensure all was functioning properly.
Installed dryer top, and brackets.
Installed service panel.

Removed rear inspection plate, removed pulley spring and one hex bolt, replaced in reverse order. Very simple removal and install for this. Glad to see that Part Select still had parts for this 22 year old drier.

1. Lift the dryer top off to get to the two screws holding the front of dryer. 2. On the back bottom left of the dryer, remove the vent so you can get to the tension pully to loosen the belt around the drum. 3. Remove drum. 4. Disconnet element coil from wires. 5. Carefully remove element coil from ceramic holders. 6. Get new element coil and attach to wires while carefully keeping coil loose and untangled. 7. Again, carefully restring coil into ceramic holders without springing the coil making it misshapen. Once all of the coil is in the holders, retrace your steps. 8. While you have the appliance open, it's a good time to vacuum out all lint to prevent a fire from occuring. 9. REMEMBER TO ALWAYS UNPLUG THE APPLIANCE BEFORE WORKING ON IT!

Removed the wires that I could, then terminal block. Installing the new terminal block was very easy; however the wires that arced were fused to the terminal bock screws and needed to be cut and new connectors had to be put on the wires to allow them to be reattached to the block safely.
Once all was replaced and reinstalled the oven has worked great. The length of the repair was increased because of the melted parts and having to run to the store to get the new wire connectors big enough to fit on the wires. If we were simply replacing the block and had not encountered the melted ends, it would have been a very quick and easy repair.

1. After checking the Parts Select website for some useful information I unplugged the dryer.
2. I popped the two clips holding the top down and lifted the top up and out of the way.
3. I used the 8mm socket and screwdiver combo to remove the two screws holding the front of the dryer on. These screws are so close to the sides of the dryer that you need something very thin to seat the socket, it is so thin a small rachet would not fit.
4. Once the to screws are free to forget to unhook the two wires that lead to the automatic cutoff switch on the right. Label them and move them out of the way.
5. The front of the dryer should pivot forward and come right off. Don't forget about the two clips at the bottom, they are not really attached to anything and can be easy to lose.
6. Get your screwdriver and dive into the drum, on the back should be three screws, take those out.
7. Spin the dryer around and take off the vent cover in the lower left corner of the back of the dryer, watch out the socket is a smaller size.
8. Once inside there is an idler pulley like on the back of a ten speed bike, pull the tension out of it and take the drive belt off the pulleys.
9. The drum should be able to be pulled out the front of the dryer, set aside with the door. The screws on my dryer were so tight I had to use a hammer drill to remove them.
10. This is were I got stuck, no one mentioned how to get the bearing plate off, as if everyone would just know. You must lift up on the bearing plate and once it moves up then you can pull it out.
11. Use the 8mm socket to unscrew the old plastic bearing guide. The small metal clip on the back of the dryer will fall off with the grounding ball bearing.
12. With brum bearing kit in hand start off by putting as much high temp lubricant as you can into the bottom of the new bearing guide. I also use a little lubricant like glue to hold the new grounding ball bearing in the little hole on the back of the bearing guide.
13. Here is the tricky part you have to screw the bearing guide into the the dryer while simulaneously holding the little metal clip in place on the back of the dryer. I used duct tape to hold the metal clip and once the screws got started I just took the tape off.
14. Now you have to do the impossible, the bearing must be screwed to the drum. So unless you have 7 foot long arms you can't hold the bearing and drive the screws. Another problem is the bearing itself, the holes are not the same size as the original and they are not threaded. I stripped every screw that came with the kit trying to get them through the metal of the bearing.
15. With an unwilling victim holding the bearing steady I finally got a replacement screw to seat through the bearing. Once you get one the rest are easier.
16. You are ready to reassemble, after vacuuming everything ou, pick up the drum making sure the belt is around the drum about where it was when you took it off. Push the drum through the front of the dryer all the way to the back, aim a little high so the bearing can move down and seat in the bearing guide.
17. Tuck the clips on the front panel of the dryer into the bottom front edge of the dryer and the whole front should pivot up, when you get it almost closed you will have to lift the drum and set it on the front bearing in the door.
18. While holding the front of the dryer on you have to reach inside and get the 8mm screw started on the left or right, if you let go the front of the dryer will pop off and you have to start over with the pivot. Now is a good time to have a magnet on a stick so when you drop the screw or screw driver you don't have to take the front off to retrieve your tools.
19. Once the front is on reconnect the two wires to the switch in the front of the dryer. Remember the ones you were supposed to have labeled earlier.
20. Close the top of the dryer and spin the dryer around so you can reach inside the vent door and pull the tension pulley over and reseat the drive belt. Rem

Watched on-line video, then applied those steps.
1. Pop the front of the deck loose using putty knife to depress clips;
2. Disconnect wires from light and door switch;
(Before I disconnected wires from door switch and light, I made wiring sketches to make sure I reconnected in original manner.)
3. Remove lint filter mount screws and mount from bottom of door opening;
4. Cut drum belt with wire-cutters and removed it;
5. Remove drum support clip from top center of front panel;
6. Remove (1) screw from each side of dryer body that hold front to sidewalls, removed front panel;
7. Remove drum by lifting the rear out of the bearing, then moving it forward through the machine front;
[While I had the dryer disassembled, I thoroughly cleaned it of lint, dirt & metal filings. The metal filings were from the worn ball hitch and drum support bearing cup. I spent as much time cleaning it out as I did working on it.]
8. Stand drum on gallon paint bucket while removing ball hitch (Use a #2 drywall phillips apex to obtain sufficient seating & torque to remove and reinstall ball hitch screws at rear of drum.);
9. Have a second person hold the new ball hitch in position while starting screws, if necessary;
10. Use nut driver w/5/16" socket to remove bearing retainer & ground ball clip;
11. Install new bearing into retainer clip, insert attachment screws through the holes in both, stick grounding ball in depression on back of bearing as screws are fed through back panel;
12. Hold ground ball clip in place to start one screw, then the other & tighten with nut driver;
13. Start drum belt on motor shaft and position against tensioner pulley;
14. Feed drum through front of machine and loop belt over rear of drum;
15. Slide belt forward on drum as drum moves to rear to keep it aligned with position of tension pulley;
16. Lift rear of drum to place ball hitch on top of bearing, then press down to seat it into bearing;
17. Turn drum to ensure belt alignment, then re-accomplish steps 6 thru 1.

Have done this before - dissembled, cleaned everything, re-assembled with new parts - rear bearing, idler, and belt. Hardest part is getting the spring back on the idler pulley.
You take the top lid off, remove the front panel and then the drum. remove the access panel on the back to release the spring tension on the idler pulley, then remove the drum. Vacuum clean everything, then reassemble with new stem and bearing, new belt, and idler pulley. Test spin drum by hand - if belt comes off it's likely twisted. Put belt back on and try again. Try operating with air mode to spin drum. If belt stays on, complete re-assembling and make sure you have no screws left over!

First of all I would like you all to know that I cheated just a bit. I had SEARS come out and tell me for sure what the problem was, as they took my dryer apart a payed close attention to everything they did. After I was told that it would cost me over $200 (on top of the $109 I just payed for them to tell me what was wrong) to fix the heating element. I replied with a "NO THANKS!", I also told them not to worry putting it back together. It seemed like he was very happy to hear that and thought I was going to buy a new dryer, he even gave me a coupon for a whole 10% off if I spend over $400. After spending 10 minutes or so on line I found the part I needed @ Partselect.com (plug-plug) for like $20. Once I received the part it took all of 15 minutes to take of the old and put on the new. First: Make sure power is off by unplugging or turn off breaker (can't finish a project if a project finishes you)! Second: Find the two power lines sticking out at about four o'clock and disconnect. Third: Unscrew porcelain separator and remove the two coil ends before removing the coil it's self from the arrow like holders. Forth: reverse last three steps with care (coil feels like it could break easily). Fifth: Place drum back in it's setting while making sure that the drive belt that turns drum is placed around motor pulley. Sixth: Button it up the way you pulled it a part. and your done, good luck!

Popped the top of the dryer off. Removed 3 screws from lower front panel. Removed front panel slide belt over drum, remove 2 bolts from rear panel and installed belt over motor and around idler tensioner. Reinstalled front panel and top of dryer . Also greased idler pulley to shaft , beings tensioner was okay. Plugged in and tested dryer, it was okay.
We went to PartSelect. com and order the belt and it was fast shipping. We couldn't find the belt anywhere else. Thanks for PartSelect.

I first removed a vent cover in the back where the idler is located. With pliers I removed the tension off the spring. Next I simply slide the idler off the post. I pulled up on the top panel which opened like a clam shell. I used a flat blade screw driver to separate the front panel from the dryer so I could slide the new belt around the drum. I reversed the steps. All in all it was easy. It took me about 30min including cleanup.