F31C747CT0 Frigidaire Dryer - Instructions

First I pulled up on top panel. Next I removed the two screws holding on the front panel on. Next I pulled forward and front panel pulls out. I cleaned the old upper & lower drum glide & drum seal using a razor blade. I used the high temp glue that came with the top glide. I glued them both on & let sit for about half hour. While the glued dried I installed new belt & belt idler pulley. I re-assembled the front panel while lining up the drum. Re-installed the 2 screws. Snapped the top panel back in place. Plugged it back in & turned it on. Awesome noise was gone & working great.

Took front door off, top off, frunt off, removes screws holding rear bearing pivot, and then removed drum. repainted bearing surface on drum, installed parts, let paint dry for a day and reassembled.

Moved dryer out where I could get to all sides, then pulled top off, then unscrewed the front panel. The drum lifted out of it's ball bearing assembly in the back with a little force. Then it slid out fairly easy.

I replaced the rear bearing assembly, the bottom drum glide strip, the top drum glide and the vent seal all at the same time. The glue for the glide strips took about an hour to set up and I used clothes pins every 4-6 inches as suggested by someone else here on this site. Then I vaccuumed out the entire dryer body, vent pipes and every nook and cranny.

I put everything back as it had come out and then put the dryer back in it's place. Plugged it back in and it's as quiet as when it was new. Total time of project was about 1:45.

Followed the instructions in the video. It was very helpful.

Found the promblem as described at this site while looking for diagrams for the dyer. Repair went as described. Once I removed the old upper drum glide I used acetone to remove old glue. Cleaned up fast and easy. Once installed I let cure for about an hour and then reassembled. Let it cure for about an hour more and then I used the dyer. I could feel that the gap around the front of the drum was again narrow so that my finger tip would not slide into a grove. So far so good.

My husband took the front panel off. We scaped the old seals off. Used the adhesive that came with the drum glide and replaced both parts. No more ripped and stained clothes, that easy!

New screen and holder came in, removed screws holding the holder in place and reinstalled new one & dropped the screen in place.

All I had to do was pop in the new door catch. Works perfectly.

I took the new screen out of the box. I removed the old lint screen from the dryer, and I put in the new screen. Real simple!

After watching the video that explained and showed how to replace the bearing assembly, installation was a breeze. Great company to do business with. Ordered the part and had it in two days, and the dryer was working again asap. Thanks PartSelect
PS this dryer is 23 years old.

I removed the top lid, then removed the front panel, to expose top and bottom drum glides attached to panel, then using a carpenter shisel, and cutting knive scraped away the old worn out glides, wiped clean with acetone the area were the new glides were being cemented. all of this thanks to couple of customers that had the same issues on their dryer, and documented step by step their own way to have this done, I just followed thru their experiences.

Removed top panel - disconnected harness from front panel- removed front panel- removed access door to belt tensioner on back panel - took belt off tensioner- removed drum removed upper felt with worn glide pads from front panel - removed most of old glue from panel (small file) and glued on new felt strip with glide pads - let sit to cure removed three phillips screws holding rear brg to the drum and removed brg - removed two phillips screws from rear panel holding plastic bracket, supporting bracket and back clip to the rear panel and replaced with new (use a drop of grease to hold the little ball brg in place during installation, make sure you don't loose it) install new brg to the drum (since they are self cutting screw difficult to install throught he drum, I "pre-cut" one of the threads then installed the rear brg to the drum, screw driver was of ratched type with a long extension - filled the plastic bracket with the grease - installed drum and front panel - tensioned the belt - installed top panel and access rear panel - done - I used the opprtunity to vaccum the interior of the dryer, lot of lint ----------------------------------------------------------------- there is a plastic guide on top of the heating elements which is burnt and should have been replaced but I could not find it in a catalogue. Anybody any idea? Also instructions for glide say to check the paint on the drum, what if it is damaged or gone?

Followed video instructions that were emailed by you.

First I have to say that the video on the Parts Select website was invaluable, it truly made the replacement a no brainer. The kit came with everything I need and was a great price.

Unplug the dryer, mine is a stackable so we had to remove the dry from the top of the washer. I then followed the instructions from the video. The only real difference was that my dryer is that is has dual direction tumbling, so there were 2 idler arms instead of one to move in order to un hook the belt. was pretty easy.

I only needed my husband's help a couple of times because 1. To get the dryer off of the washer. And 2. I didn’t have the reach to install the new bearing on the back of the drum.

1.) Unplug Dryer
2.) pop dryer lid by depressing 2 front clips with flat head screw dryer
3.) on back of dryer remove access cover and release belt tension
4.) remove front panel screws and then pop off front panel
5.) remove old gasket. Used XACTO knife, razor blades and acetone. Go slow and be careful.
6.) apply new high temp glue, let set up for a minute
7.) position the new felt gasket and clamp into place. I used C-Clamps and squeeze clamps.
8.) I let sit overnight.
9.) re-assemble and good to go.

NOTE: In retrospect I should have replaced both seals at the same time. The bottom seal is pretty worn but is still working out for now.