DE7000ADD1 Frigidaire Dryer - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Mark from Normalville, PA
- Parts Used:
- 134120900
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Dryer would not start. When turning on, I could hear faint humming, but the motor would not start.
1) Unplug the unit.
2) Remove all screws from top of the unit except for the one in the center front that does not go through the outer casing.
3) Find the Thermal Limiter which is on the back wall near the top on the left side when looking from the front.
4) Disconnect the two wires
5) Remove the two screws that mount the limiter to the back wall.
6) Use an ohmeter to test if a current flows through the unit. If no current flows through (an open switch), then the unit will need to be replaced.
7) Clean any lint that you can at this point.
8) Use two screws to mount new Thermal Limiter
9) Reconnect the two wires to the Limiter.
10) Attach the top of the dryer case.
2) Remove all screws from top of the unit except for the one in the center front that does not go through the outer casing.
3) Find the Thermal Limiter which is on the back wall near the top on the left side when looking from the front.
4) Disconnect the two wires
5) Remove the two screws that mount the limiter to the back wall.
6) Use an ohmeter to test if a current flows through the unit. If no current flows through (an open switch), then the unit will need to be replaced.
7) Clean any lint that you can at this point.
8) Use two screws to mount new Thermal Limiter
9) Reconnect the two wires to the Limiter.
10) Attach the top of the dryer case.
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- Customer:
- john from waynesboro, VA
- Parts Used:
- 5303281153
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Dryer Drum Squealing Loudly!
This unit is a stackable washer&dryer,so first pull unit away from wall atleast 4 foot. Unplug power cord,then take10 dagree front panel off then the control panel off and unplug the 5 connetors if your unit has that many,then lay panel asside. Take dryer door off,makes it easier when putting it all back together. Now take front panel off and the dryer lent tube,now just take the 3 center phillips head screws out and slide drum out. Pull upward on what they call the shaft which held drum on. Now these are the parts you should order. Belt,grounding ball clip,grounding ball,drum support bearing,bearing bracket,and most important part is the shaft. The shaft is ur insurance for the whole job. Use a good grease like white lithium grease and coat the shaft end and the drum support bearing. The grease will cut down on friction for a while,and re assemble the way you took apart. Reminder grounding ball goes behind drum support bearing not in front. Good luck and please vaccum.
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- Customer:
- Susan from Point Pleasent Beach, NJ
- Parts Used:
- 134120900
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Dryer not working
After reading about similar problems people have had with this make of dryer, I focused attention on the thermal limiter. I determined that it was the culprit by "jumping" it with a 6" piece of wire. Then I simply went on the site, ordered the part. It arrived a few days later and I pulled out the old one, screwed in the new one, and the dryer is good as new.
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- Customer:
- Edward from Carmel, NY
- Parts Used:
- 5303281153, 5303281049
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Dryer Squeaked
UNPLUGGED DRYER.
1. I used a putty knife to pop the clips in the front. This allows the top to open like a car hood.
2. There are two screws one on each side holding the front to the body. Then there are clips which can just be pulled.
3. There are some electrical connections. I made a diagram and disconnected them.
4. The front slides up off two tabs at the bottom.
5. Peel and scrape off old felt. install new felt using high temp glue and clamps. The top one the plastic guides go to the top.
6. The belt has a tensioner on the bottom right and comes off easily.
7. There are three screws in the middle of the back of the drum. They were very tight and require a good phillips head screw driver.
8. Drum lifts out the front.
9. Unscrew the ball bearing assembly from the back, put the high temp lubricant on the ball.
10. Re-assemble in opposite steps.
Plug in and test.
1. I used a putty knife to pop the clips in the front. This allows the top to open like a car hood.
2. There are two screws one on each side holding the front to the body. Then there are clips which can just be pulled.
3. There are some electrical connections. I made a diagram and disconnected them.
4. The front slides up off two tabs at the bottom.
5. Peel and scrape off old felt. install new felt using high temp glue and clamps. The top one the plastic guides go to the top.
6. The belt has a tensioner on the bottom right and comes off easily.
7. There are three screws in the middle of the back of the drum. They were very tight and require a good phillips head screw driver.
8. Drum lifts out the front.
9. Unscrew the ball bearing assembly from the back, put the high temp lubricant on the ball.
10. Re-assemble in opposite steps.
Plug in and test.
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- Customer:
- DAVID from DURHAM, NC
- Parts Used:
- 134101400
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Burning odor, melted terminal block
0) Turned off breaker at panel and disconnected power cord from 240v wall outlet
1) Removed screws that hold electrical cover plate on back of dryer.
2) Lifted the top of dryer using putty knife on 2 top edges of lid. This lifts up like a cars hood.
3) Removed the screws that attach the power cord to the terminal block and disconnected power cord
4) Removed screws that attach terminal block to dryer
5) Removed melted terminals by prying out of terminal block. Note metal lip on terminal has to be lifted in order to slide connector out. Also unscrewed ground wire from terminal block to dryer.
6) Drew diagram of what color wires go to what terminals
7) Cut terminals off of wires and connected new terminals. Crimped closed and used butane solder torch to solder connection between terminal and wire
8) Reconnected terminals to terminal block by sliding in. **Note, had to file down the edges of the terminals using moto-tool to make it fit as they are connected together using break-away tabs that leave a large piece of metal connected not allowing to fit in terminal block
9) Reconnected terminal block to dryer and reconnected ground wire.
10) Reconnected power cord to terminal block with screws
11) Replaced cover over wiring terminal block
12) Reconnected power cored to 240ac wall outlet
13) Turned breaker back on
1) Removed screws that hold electrical cover plate on back of dryer.
2) Lifted the top of dryer using putty knife on 2 top edges of lid. This lifts up like a cars hood.
3) Removed the screws that attach the power cord to the terminal block and disconnected power cord
4) Removed screws that attach terminal block to dryer
5) Removed melted terminals by prying out of terminal block. Note metal lip on terminal has to be lifted in order to slide connector out. Also unscrewed ground wire from terminal block to dryer.
6) Drew diagram of what color wires go to what terminals
7) Cut terminals off of wires and connected new terminals. Crimped closed and used butane solder torch to solder connection between terminal and wire
8) Reconnected terminals to terminal block by sliding in. **Note, had to file down the edges of the terminals using moto-tool to make it fit as they are connected together using break-away tabs that leave a large piece of metal connected not allowing to fit in terminal block
9) Reconnected terminal block to dryer and reconnected ground wire.
10) Reconnected power cord to terminal block with screws
11) Replaced cover over wiring terminal block
12) Reconnected power cored to 240ac wall outlet
13) Turned breaker back on
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- Customer:
- Paul from Broadalbin, NY
- Parts Used:
- 5303281153
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Wretched screeching noise
Make sure you order a new belt and a new drum glide with the rear drum bearing assembly. If your bearing is worn out, so are the belt and drum glide!
1) Use a flat screw driver or putty knife to release the blind clips that hold the front side of the top of the dryer cabinet down
2) Swing dryer top up and remove two screws that hold the face of the cabinet.
3) Unplug the wiring harness and remove the cabinet face.
4) Remove the 3 screws that hold the drum to the bearing assembly (accessed from inside the drum. This makes it easier to remove the drum as the bearing assembly can be difficult to remove before you see how it snaps together
5) Reach under the drum and take the belt off the motor pulley, then remove the drum
6) Remove the old bearing assembly from the socket (slide up then out)
7) Remove the two screws that hold the bearing socket to the dryer
8) Fasten the new socket to the dryer (you'll need help doing this unless you have REALLY long arms because you have to reach inside the driver and the back of the dryer at the same time)
9) Grease the socket with the supplied high temp grease
10) Bolt the new bearing assembly to the drum and put the new belt around the drum
11) Put the drum back in and snap the bearing socket in and down
12) Guide the new belt around the motor pulley & tensioner
13) Glue the new drum glide / felt piece to the front cabinet
14) Put the cabinet back together
1) Use a flat screw driver or putty knife to release the blind clips that hold the front side of the top of the dryer cabinet down
2) Swing dryer top up and remove two screws that hold the face of the cabinet.
3) Unplug the wiring harness and remove the cabinet face.
4) Remove the 3 screws that hold the drum to the bearing assembly (accessed from inside the drum. This makes it easier to remove the drum as the bearing assembly can be difficult to remove before you see how it snaps together
5) Reach under the drum and take the belt off the motor pulley, then remove the drum
6) Remove the old bearing assembly from the socket (slide up then out)
7) Remove the two screws that hold the bearing socket to the dryer
8) Fasten the new socket to the dryer (you'll need help doing this unless you have REALLY long arms because you have to reach inside the driver and the back of the dryer at the same time)
9) Grease the socket with the supplied high temp grease
10) Bolt the new bearing assembly to the drum and put the new belt around the drum
11) Put the drum back in and snap the bearing socket in and down
12) Guide the new belt around the motor pulley & tensioner
13) Glue the new drum glide / felt piece to the front cabinet
14) Put the cabinet back together
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- Customer:
- Michael from Erlanger, KY
- Parts Used:
- 134120900
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Dryer would not turn on
I contacted a company to come out and diagnose the problem. They informed me that the thermal limiter is bad and needed to be replaced for $15 for the part and $85 labor. I found the part on this site for about $10, and did the repair myself. The dryer was mostly dismantled so I pulled the drum back, and replaced the part. The tricky part was the pulley system was, so make sure you see it before hand or find a diagram online. Once that was figured out, I set the drum back up, greased and tightened the pulley, reattached the front of the washer with connections, and closed the lid.
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- Customer:
- Anne from Riverview, MI
- Parts Used:
- 131390300
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
lint screen was torn
Removed 2 screws and replaced part--very easy.
I was very happy to find this part for a 1988 dryer
I was very happy to find this part for a 1988 dryer
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- Customer:
- Pamela from Portland, OR
- Parts Used:
- 134120900
- Difficulty Level:
- Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Takes multiple cycles to dry clothes
I don't think it would take others as long as it took me.
I had to take the drum out to get to the limiter. And my dryer is in a builtin housing with limited space in front of the dryer - so lots of manuevers to get access.
The limiter was very easy to find, thanks to diagrams on this site. The space between drum and limiter made it impossible to get to the limiter screws without removing drum. Found very helpful drum removal instructions on PartSelect here:
http://www.partselect.com/PS1148434-Frigidaire-134503600-Dryer-Drum-Belt.htm?SourceCode=13&ModelNum=FSE748GFS0
Great site - thank you.
I had to take the drum out to get to the limiter. And my dryer is in a builtin housing with limited space in front of the dryer - so lots of manuevers to get access.
The limiter was very easy to find, thanks to diagrams on this site. The space between drum and limiter made it impossible to get to the limiter screws without removing drum. Found very helpful drum removal instructions on PartSelect here:
http://www.partselect.com/PS1148434-Frigidaire-134503600-Dryer-Drum-Belt.htm?SourceCode=13&ModelNum=FSE748GFS0
Great site - thank you.
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- Customer:
- Dustin from Wonder Lake, IL
- Parts Used:
- 5303937139, 131553800
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Dryer fell off leveling piece and locked the drum.
I removed the gate in the back and found the belt had snapped. I continued to dismanlte the entire dryer to see what else was damaged. I pulled the drum out and ran the unit to make sure the motor didn't burn out and that the heater coil worked, which both did (I had no idea, this unit came with the house I purchased. They told me is was broken.) So after finding the belt broken I saw that the top felt guide was rubbed down so far that the plastic guides where in paper thin, craked pieces.
I used the manuel that came with the felt guide to glue the new one on. If you do not replace the lower felt guide as well, make sure you mash the top felt down so that it's level with the lower felt. after I got my unit assembled the top guide pulled away because I didn't do this.
Installing the belt is timely, but easy. remove the drum then lay the belt around the visible line that the old one creates. Use this site's diagram to affix it to the pull and motor and that's that. Rotate the drum with your hand to even the belt out all around the drum to prevent it wobbling. I did this installation by myself, but it would have been much much easier if I had a set of hands on the other side of the unit.
Parts all fit together by either sheet screws or clips. Just keep track of which screw goes where. some are different sizes.
I used the manuel that came with the felt guide to glue the new one on. If you do not replace the lower felt guide as well, make sure you mash the top felt down so that it's level with the lower felt. after I got my unit assembled the top guide pulled away because I didn't do this.
Installing the belt is timely, but easy. remove the drum then lay the belt around the visible line that the old one creates. Use this site's diagram to affix it to the pull and motor and that's that. Rotate the drum with your hand to even the belt out all around the drum to prevent it wobbling. I did this installation by myself, but it would have been much much easier if I had a set of hands on the other side of the unit.
Parts all fit together by either sheet screws or clips. Just keep track of which screw goes where. some are different sizes.
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- Customer:
- Glenn from Universal City, TX
- Parts Used:
- 5303211428, 134101400, 131785200
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Missing power cable cover/damaged terminal block
While changing power cable from 3 prong to 4 prong connection on a recently purchased used dryer I found the terminal block partially melted due to improper connectors which overheated. The bracket and cover were also missing which presented a shock hazard for anyone touching the exposed connections and there was no way to connect the strain relief. I disconnected the old 3 prong cable, removed the old terminal block, installed the new terminal block (required opening the dryer top for access), threaded power cable through bracket and fastened with strain relief leaving loose, attached the neutral/ground wires to middle terminal connection point, red to red wire in terminal block and black to black wire also in terminal block and tightened bracket and added cover.
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- Customer:
- David from Fairdale, KY
- Parts Used:
- 5303281153, 5303281153, 5303281153, 131825900, 131724301
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Bearing Bracket Worn Out
Took off front panel, removed drum and replaced parts listed. A bit tricky to keep small parts in place. However, masking tape helped. Best of all was the online diagram of how the parts were assembled. In addition, taking step by step phone pixs aided in replacing parts since there was some down time between diagnosis and installation.
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- Customer:
- Bindy from Memphis, TN
- Parts Used:
- 131390300
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
old screen rusty and torn off from frame - the dryer is quite old but works very well.
Unscrewed old frame, removed it and put in the new one. Now I have a brand new dryer. Thanks!
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- Customer:
- Greg from Nibley, UT
- Parts Used:
- 5303281153, 131553800
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
The dryer was squealing when running.
Based on all of the other posts, their explanations were right on, so I won't repeat it here. You could probably do this repair on your own, but it helps having someone to hold the drum while reattaching the screws. I replace the rear drum bearing assembly and the belt. I would recommend replacing the belt. I almost didn't, but I'm glad I did. Once I had it off, I could see the cracks in it.
When installing the new bearing, make sure that you pack it with the supplied grease. Be liberal with it. I used what left over grease I had to grease the idler puller bearings too.
The dryer works perfectly now, with no squealing. My experience with Parts Select was flawless. The shipping was extremely fast, and the parts were as described. Finding the correct parts was a snap thanks to their easy to use web site.
When installing the new bearing, make sure that you pack it with the supplied grease. Be liberal with it. I used what left over grease I had to grease the idler puller bearings too.
The dryer works perfectly now, with no squealing. My experience with Parts Select was flawless. The shipping was extremely fast, and the parts were as described. Finding the correct parts was a snap thanks to their easy to use web site.
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- Customer:
- Michael from HUDSON, NY
- Parts Used:
- 134120900
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
dryer stopped in middle of cycle and wouldn't restart
followed video and replaced part( cleaned and vacuumed dryer while I had it apart),relatively easy repair
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