WDG436RBW2 Frigidaire Dryer - Instructions

popped in one in

Opened top of dryer with screw driver,removed two screws securing the front door. moved door away from dryer. Removed old felt from door,scraped area to remove old glue and felt. Lightly sanded area to clean. Applied new provided glue and let set for 1 minute. put new felt in place and applied three small clamps to hold in place. Waited 1 hour and reassembled dryer.

The first thing I did was logged onto the internet to search the web for my dryer information. Next, after I found the correct model, the site referred me to the parts section and that is where I determined the problem was the M series ignition coil. I then unplugged the dryer and turned off the gas. I took a screwdriver and popped the top off and cut the wire straps that held the door strips and the light to the front panel. I then unplugged the door switch at the connector - HOWEVER - DO NOT TRY TO REMOVE THE WIRES FROM THE ACTUAL DOOR SWITCH BECAUSE THEY ARE VERY FRAGILE AND CAN EASILY BREAK. Next, I removed the two screws that hold the front panel on. By using a slight bit of pressure, I removed the front panel and was able to locate where the ignition coil switch was. (It was right in front) I then removed the two screws that held the clamp down, as well as the bad coils. The coils easily slid off the post and the new pieces slid back on just as easy. I then replaced the screws and clamps to hold the new pieces in place and replaced the front panel. **NOTE ~ while the front panel is off, it would be a good time to clean out all the built up dirt and lint that has accumulated over the years. Lastly, I re-connected all switches and wires and replaced the top panel. Once I turned the gas back on, everything ran beautifully.

I unpluged the dryer, raised the top cover up, removed 2 two screws & pulled front cover out. Removed the old seal, cleaned the area & installed the new seal. Reinstalled as new. Very, very easy.

replaced rear drum bearing kit. Watched video made it real easy. The only problem was getting the belt back on the pulleys.

Watched video sent to me after I purchased belt on line. Super helpful!

there are several srcews to remove. there are some u dont have to take out but it looks like u do.ease of the front panel and remove the old drum glide,very hard to get of all the felt.check the the bottom guide before u order parts if possible(i could've replaced mine,but didnt have time to check it first).when glue back in place follow directions exact and clamp.allow glue to dry as long as u can. mine set overnight it was nice and dry(if u dont you'll be doing it all over again)replace everything as you took them off.all works great perfect fit!!

First I took the drum out of the dryer. This was an easy tear down. I had to remember 2 wires, and a belt assembly ( 2 pullies ). I removed 3 screws inside the drum to release the bearing assembly from the back. Then I went to the dryer chasis and removed the mounting bracket by removing 2 screws. I simply replaced the mounting bracket with the new one. This required having to use a magnet to hold a small ball bearing in place while I worked the rest of the pieces in position.I greased it up and went back to the drum. I replaced the old bearing assembly with the new one. Easy. I took the time to shop-vac the inside of the dryer. There was a lot of loose lint, candy rappers, coins, etc. Finally, I put it back together. Unfortunately, this is the forth (4th) time I've had to do this. It's cheaper than buying a new dryer. Now, I've got to fix the washer.

I looked up a YouTube video on my specific model. Found one that said “basic disassembly”. I watched that and had it apart and back together in no time. Very easy to take apart and put new parts back in it. Re-assembled and since the repair no squeaking.

Read your article on possible repairs for different symptoms and after dis assembling and cleaning certain parts took a chance on the flame sensor, which turned out to be the culprit. Your help was a valuable tool in the repair process ! What would be the bee's knee's would be the resistance reading on the sensors that monitor the system for a more accurate diagnostic approach. But none the less you definitely aided in the repair of my propane gas dryer. Thank you very much ! And by the way the 3-4 day wait for the part was well worth the half price I paid versus our small town repair facility, Thanx again

I unplugged the dryer and pryed open the top by inserting a screw driver in the space 1inch from the top on the side. After i opened it and lifed it up, I removed the one screw on both sides found in the inner part towards the front top. I then removed the front panel. The coils are toward the bottom left side. They are held in by a bracket which is held in by 2 screws. I removed the outer screw and loosened the inner screw. ( you can remove both screws but it was not necessary).I then swumg the bracket around and was able to lift out the coils. I removed the connectors and relaced the coils. Once done I re-assembled the dryer. The problem was solved.

Dryer was working, only burner was working occasionally only. So, in result the drying time was very long, and clothes were cold and still not satisfactionally dry; occasionally only it was hot. It became obvious to me that gas burner only occasionally is working. On the Internet I found some instructables, mostly on YouTube, but also on this site (the Burner diagram): thus I have learned that the culprit must be the two tiny ignition coils: they worked only sometimes, so it was only a jeopardy when checking them using a continuation meter (voltmeter with continuation feature). For the access to the burner combo I used a small checking door right below the large door, in front wall of the dryer. There are only two small screws which hold a small piece of metal which cover these tiny coils. However, I had to disconnect the burner from gas pipe to get better access to those screws. (Of course, I also disconnected the dryer from power and I had to disconnect those wire connections on the burner combo to get access to the burner). It works perfectly after this repair.

Remove top cover and front and remove drum and install a new bearing kit and new belt.

Open the top cover by pushing the retention clips in from the front (just under the top edge) with the putty knife - that was the hardest to figure out - I found it online.
The rest is just 4 screws - 2 inside to release the plastic filter holder and two on the inner edges of the front panel.
Took the front off, ripped the old slider, cleaned the glue residue with alcohol and mineral spirits and a lot of scrubbing, vacuumed all the lint from the fan.
Then glued the new slider in place and clamped it together. Didnt know how long the glue takes so I left it overnight, just in case.
It works well now. Cleaning the ducts and the fan with the vacuum hose made a world of an efficiency difference. They should make an easy way to do this for regular maintenance!

First I removed power from dryer. Then I lifted the lid and removed the 2 screws holding the front onto the dryer. I then used a pair of pliers to grip the seal and help pull it off. Cleaned off old adhesive. Recommend getting GOOP BE GONE. Then apply high temp sealant onto area and place seal on top. Press firmly across it to make sure it is in place. Then put it all back together and your done. Also, if upper seal is worn.recommend ordering lower seal at same time. I didn't and should have. Save yourself from doing this twice.