FDE558GGS0 Frigidaire Dryer - Instructions

Followed your website repair guides and the great belt replacement video.

Other parts used were; front lower basket seal, dryer seal, and dryer drum belt.

Had no problems except for keeping the drum belt idler pulley tension spring in place. Used the rear access panel to solve this issue.

John H.
Palm Desert, CA

I followed the recommendation from William, from Ardmore, OK and Elvis, from Miami, FL for the repairs. Elvis had detailed instructions as well as William, so I just combined the two and I was able to repair my dryer in three hours time. My sincere thanks to partselect web site in posting the repairs on line and for everyones input. I will be back to use the web site again to troubleshoot my other appliances and order parts (great price, fast service for parts) and I will highly recommend this site to my friends.

we simply screwed the new one in place

The new motor from parts select was not correct. The new motor is a bolt on. The original motor was a press on. Had to return at a cost of 42.00 dollars. Had to buy a new dryer.

Watched on-line video, then applied those steps.
1. Pop the front of the deck loose using putty knife to depress clips;
2. Disconnect wires from light and door switch;
(Before I disconnected wires from door switch and light, I made wiring sketches to make sure I reconnected in original manner.)
3. Remove lint filter mount screws and mount from bottom of door opening;
4. Cut drum belt with wire-cutters and removed it;
5. Remove drum support clip from top center of front panel;
6. Remove (1) screw from each side of dryer body that hold front to sidewalls, removed front panel;
7. Remove drum by lifting the rear out of the bearing, then moving it forward through the machine front;
[While I had the dryer disassembled, I thoroughly cleaned it of lint, dirt & metal filings. The metal filings were from the worn ball hitch and drum support bearing cup. I spent as much time cleaning it out as I did working on it.]
8. Stand drum on gallon paint bucket while removing ball hitch (Use a #2 drywall phillips apex to obtain sufficient seating & torque to remove and reinstall ball hitch screws at rear of drum.);
9. Have a second person hold the new ball hitch in position while starting screws, if necessary;
10. Use nut driver w/5/16" socket to remove bearing retainer & ground ball clip;
11. Install new bearing into retainer clip, insert attachment screws through the holes in both, stick grounding ball in depression on back of bearing as screws are fed through back panel;
12. Hold ground ball clip in place to start one screw, then the other & tighten with nut driver;
13. Start drum belt on motor shaft and position against tensioner pulley;
14. Feed drum through front of machine and loop belt over rear of drum;
15. Slide belt forward on drum as drum moves to rear to keep it aligned with position of tension pulley;
16. Lift rear of drum to place ball hitch on top of bearing, then press down to seat it into bearing;
17. Turn drum to ensure belt alignment, then re-accomplish steps 6 thru 1.

much as described earler,
1. Removed 2 screws on back at the top and 2 on the chrome vent to access the belt and pulley.
2. Disconnected spring from pulley assembly and removed belt from pulley and motor.
3. Removed top of dryer.
4. Removed control panel.
5. Removed screws from inside dryer tumbler (all of them)
6. Removed bottom kick plate.
7. Removed 2 screws from inside panel (near tumbler) and 2 screws from bottom of front panel. Removed front panel.
8. Removed tumbler housing.
9. Removed heating element cover.
10. Removed heating element pan. (wires first)
11. Removed "bearing" by lifing it up (snaps in)
12. Cleaned and regreased "bearing"
Assembled in reverse order.

When it comes to repairs the only thing that I can fix are sandwiches. To say that I am a handy man is usually followed by snickers from my wife and friends... However, I was able to completley take apart my dryer, replace the heating pan and coils, put it back together and it works all by myself (my wife was standing behind me with a fire estinguisher when I plugged it in for the 1st time). I took the advice of some of the post I saw on this sight and took some before shots with my camera phone and marked the wires with tape so I knew where to return them and was able to get it all done. I was suprised at how easy it was to do and how simple a dryer really is on the inside. Ordering the part and doing it myself saved me a couple of hundred dollars easy.... this was the way to go!

There are only three screws holding the drum in. However, to get it out I had to remove the front panels, and the top of the dryer part of the washer-dryer combo. The drum came out easily, but getting the new one in was pretty hard. I had to guess how the drive belt was routed around the motor pulley and idler pulley, since I couldn't see it until I'd removed the drum. Since the new drum wasn't exactly like the old one, I had to remove the glide strip from the front panel to get it to fit. At present, the unit is not completely reassembled, so I can't say I've been entirely successful. Tomorrow, I will put it back together, cross my fingers, and switch it on. Wish me luck!

Followup: The dryer part of this washer-dryer combo is back online. At first, the dryer made a squealing noise, but eventually quieted down. At present, the drum replacement seems to be just fine. It cost about $215, and, except for a few cuts due to sharp-edged metal, a dropped clip that disappeared into the depths of the bottom of the washer, it is actually REPAIRED. I could have used more specific help, but, all in all, it has been pretty easy, and pretty effective.

I push the new knob onto the post that fit the knob

Simply popped it back into place, careful not to break the new handle.

I googled and found parts select, listed model make and found parts diagram, found suspected parts from trouble shooting blog. I read repair stories, people who performed identical repairs, followed their lead, made notes ordered parts and
easily repaired my dryer for a fraction of the cost of replacing dryer.

After unplugging the dryer, disconnecting it from the vent, and moving into an open work area, I popped the top open with the blade of a screwdriver, disconnected the two wires that connect to the door switch, then lifted the front panel (with the door) up and away from the drum. Next, I lifted the drum out of the worn rear bearing assembly and lowered it into the dryer in order to release tension on the belt. I then removed the entire drum by carrying it forward and out of the way. I then removed the old bearing assembly, which was loose and covered with metal dust. After cleaning the area with a dry cloth to remove the old grease and metal dust, and vacuuming all the lint off *everything*, I installed the new bearing assembly with a 5/16" nut driver, being careful to position the provided ball-bearing between the plastic bearing assembly and the outer clip. The little ball-bearing is very important, as it is the drum's only path to ground, and prevents the build up of static electricity as the drums spins. I then filled the new bearing assembly with the provided grease. Everything is easy up to this point, but the difficult part for me was removing the old hub from the drum and re-attaching the new one. It is held on by three screws and they become seated very tightly. After loosening them and removing the old hub from the drum, attaching the new one prvoed difficult as well, as the screw-holes in the new hub are not threaded to fit the screws. The screws muct be forced to cut a thread as you install them, which requires a great deal of force. After installing the new hub and putting the new belt (pruchased separately) around the drum, the next step is to reinstall the drum by lifting it in through the front of the dryer and positioning the new hub over the new bearing assembly and pressing it down into place. It will gently "snap" into place as it seats. Then, on the back side of the dryer, I removed the vent panel by removing the two screws that hold it in place and positioned the new drive belt (loosely dangling around the drum) over the motor's drive wheel and behind the sring-tensioned idle arm. Then it is a simply matter to reinstall the front panel by genly lifting the drum and sliding the door opening inside it, then reseating all the little clips that hold the front panel in place. I then pressed the top back into place, reconnected the vent hose, plugged it back in and checked for operation. My fifteen year-old dryer now works like new!

remove top of dryer by prying with large screwdriver to snap back clips that hold it on remove two screws on both sides that hold the door . remove door then remove belt from dryer tub. (to remove belt take the back panel near floor off with screwdriver and lift pullie up that hold belt. )then lift tub upward to disconnect it from it's seat; pull it straight forward to get to the heating element.un bolt it with screwdriver and disconnect the sensor and put new heat element in

Romoved front from dryer . Then loosened tub , slid belt on , reached in back and put belt on pulley , turned tub till belt went into place and reassembled dryer all with the help of a 3 year old and an8 year old,so in my oppinion it was one of the easiest fixes i've ever done!

First, I read the other posts and got a good idea as to how to do it. I needed to replace the upper felt and guides but decided to go ahead and replace the lower felt and the bearing holder as well. If I had been thinking I would have replaced the belt at the same time but, oh well.

Disconnect the electric plug from the wall.
Pop the top using a medium sized flat head screwdriver.
Disconnect the wiring harness at right front of the unit.
Remove the two screws near the top of the front panel and squeez the retaining clips. You may need a pair of pliers for this but be gentle.
Pull straight up on the front panel to remove it.
To get to the bearing holder, remove the drum by first removing the access panel located at the rear of the dryer and removing the belt from the springloaded plastic pulley. With no tension on the belt simply pull up on the drum while also pulling slightly forward. The drum will pop right out but you will have to apply some pressure. There is no need to remove the three screws at the back of the drum on the inside.
Once the drum is out, remove the two screws holding the bearing holder and remove the assembly being careful not to lose the single ball bearing at the rear of the assembly. Pay attention as to how the assembly goes together.
Scrape off the old felt and glue. Like everyone else, I used a chisle and some GOOP. The old felt came right off with little effort and the GOOP cleaned off the old glue with not too much effort.
Apply the glue that comes with the felt glides according to the instructions on the tube. There's plenty to do both upper and lower felt in that tube. I used some spring clamps to firmly set the upper felt. The glue sets in just a few minutes. The lower felt has a bevelled edge that goes toward the door and fits into a groove on the panel. Once the glue is set you you are ready to put it back together. Like everyone else, I took the time to vacuum out the interior of the dryer and collect the coins and buttons that had accumulated. I found it very easy to reinstall the bearing holder assembly by myself by working from the side of the dryer. I put a dab of grease on the single ball bearing to hold it in place while I reinstalled the assembly. Put some grease in the bearing holder and reinstall the drum, then the front panel and belt. Put the belt back on the tensioner and take care of the couple of lose end and you're done.

This is a "no big deal" repair that looks worse than it is. It took me about 2.5 hours to complete and I was taking my time and just enjoying the fact that I was doing it myself.