FGR331KAS1 Frigidaire Dryer - Instructions

The repair requires the front panel to be removed. First remove the top by removing two screws in the back of the top panel. Once the top is removed, you have access to all of fasteners for the front panel. I removed the control panel to give myself more room. Simply remove the wire connectors on the panel and two connectors in the upper right of the cabinet. There are four screws that hold the front panel on, two on the inside about a third from the top and two more on the outside at the very bottom. Once the screws are removed, pry the front panel from the machine since there are spring clips holding the panel to the machine. Once the front panel is removed, you have access to the guides and the felts.

pulled appliance away from wall and unplugged the electrical cord and then used putty knife to pop up the top. Then removed the screws that held the front in place. Disconnected the wire to the switch on the door and then front on a rug and used acetone and scraper to remove the old glue and felt. Cleaned the area thoroughly and apply the glue that come with the kit an give it a couple of seconds to get tacky and then applied the felt and used clothes pins to hold in place for about an hour and then put back together and let it set over night before using. Had good success and it solved my problem.

I am a "do-it-yourselfer" despite my husbands opposition. I followed instructions from one of the posts on the site and took apart the dryer. I found the location of the rear bearing and took it out and replaced it with the new one. Easy as that. Made sure the parts looked the same. Made sure I saw how everything went together. I used a magnet to hold the ball bearing in place on the rear mount and taped the metal bracket on the outside of the dryer. Screwed it right in. Reassembled in reverse and works like a charm. To all the women out there who don't think they can do this. It's easy. Give it a try.

I replaced the rear bearing assy. Thanks to all that sent in there stories. very helpful. But my problem was the breaker in breaker box. needless to say "check your outlet for proper voltage.First,before anything else." i had a bad breaker, had it replaced,with proper 30amp fuses.Dryer works fantastic..Thanks to all again for your input. Great Website...

Followed instructions for removal and installation.

replaced bearing and shaft new belt and everything works just fine

After changing the drum support bearing, and the front felt ring, the noise continued. It turned out to be the tensioner pully. The harmonic vibration travels throughout the dryer box like an instrument so you can't tell where the sound is comming from. Before you do anything, spray a little wd40 between the bushing and the shaft on the belt tenioner pully. If the squeel goes away, you have found your smoking gun.

I took the new door catch out of the packaging and just snapped it in place it was easy peasy and took less time than opening the package

Just put them on. there wasnt any thing hard to do.

put the new knob on

Just fix it in the groove and pushed it on and it was done in seconds

remove power cord from outlet . remove upper rear panel . remove 2 wires . remove old switch . . install new switch and wires , replace rear panel , install knob , plug in power cord and check dryer operation ok. 5 min job.

Opened top, removed front cover, removed belt, took out drum, replaced bearing on drum and bearing guide on back of dryer. Reinstalled drum and belt, then replaced drum glides and upper felt,let glue set with clamps over night.

So easy! I ordered the part on the website. Received it 24 hours later. And popped it in place. Good as new.

The first thing I did was logged onto the internet to search the web for my dryer information. Next, after I found the correct model, the site referred me to the parts section and that is where I determined the problem was the M series ignition coil. I then unplugged the dryer and turned off the gas. I took a screwdriver and popped the top off and cut the wire straps that held the door strips and the light to the front panel. I then unplugged the door switch at the connector - HOWEVER - DO NOT TRY TO REMOVE THE WIRES FROM THE ACTUAL DOOR SWITCH BECAUSE THEY ARE VERY FRAGILE AND CAN EASILY BREAK. Next, I removed the two screws that hold the front panel on. By using a slight bit of pressure, I removed the front panel and was able to locate where the ignition coil switch was. (It was right in front) I then removed the two screws that held the clamp down, as well as the bad coils. The coils easily slid off the post and the new pieces slid back on just as easy. I then replaced the screws and clamps to hold the new pieces in place and replaced the front panel. **NOTE ~ while the front panel is off, it would be a good time to clean out all the built up dirt and lint that has accumulated over the years. Lastly, I re-connected all switches and wires and replaced the top panel. Once I turned the gas back on, everything ran beautifully.