GLGQ642CAS1 Frigidaire Dryer - Instructions

remove top cover, remove front of dryer, unscrew two #2 screws from gas valve coil hol down bracket. replace coils. reassemble dryer.. works great.. had already replaced the thermostate and flame sensor.. didn't change anything.. the coil set did the trick..

Simply put on the new knob. It took 2 seconds. Easy!!! So glad I didn't have to spend a small fortune for a repair. Thank you!

I remove the old lint filter and just put the new one in.

Determined that the coil on the gas valve wasn't pulling in to ignite. Using an ohmmeter, I determined the coil was open. The coil was removed by pulling off the wire connecter and removing the two phillips screws holding the bracket over the two coils. The coil then slides out. I slid the new coil into place, replaced the bracket and two screws and reconnected the wire connector. It worked immediately. The actual repair only took 15 minutes. The bulk of the time was spent tracking down which part had failed.

Checked PartSelect online for people with a. similar problem. Found most common problem was the coils.
I opened the top, removed the two screws holding the front panel, unclipped the wiring harness from the machine to the door and removed/cut the plastic wire tie and front came off easily. I put the front piece to the side after changing the light bulb. I cleaned out a large amount of lint and found the coils on the left hand side without trouble. Carefully disconnected the wiring clips, unscrewed the holding screw and removed the old coils. Installed the new colis, 1 has three prongs and the other has 2 so you ca'nt mix them up. Replaced the hold screw, re-connected the witing harness, installed a new wire tie, and re-stalled the two holding screws. Closed the cover and turned it on.
At first it did not heat up which was dissappointing; but then I left it alone and 15 minutes later it worked like new! And heated up just fine ever since.

Total cost about $35.00 with shipping. I took a chance that I would not need the sensor or the ignitor based on the comments of others and I just bought the coils. If I had to do it over I would have bought all three and saved on the shipping.

I disassembled the dryer using instructions from the following website for White Westinghouse (pictures really helped)
After removing the drum, I first noticed that the grouding ball was sitting on the bottom of the dryer (along with much lint). I then saw that the bracket for bearing support cup and the bearing support cup were both worn well past use. The bracket had been worn down about 1/4" to the SE with matching wear on the bearing support cup. There was a hole in the bottom of the bearing support cup (hence the grouding ball on the floor of dryer).
I installed the new idler pulley assembly and completely vacuumed out the dryer (I didn't know lint could get so stiff!). I installed the new parts from the kit once received (and the new belt bought previously) and the dryer works great. I'm so used to the obnoxious squealing that it seems odd to be so quiet.

The internet is a magnificent thing!

Raise the top and remove the front panel assembly. One philips screw, 24mm gas line coupler and 3 electrical connectors frees the burner assembly. Slid the old igniter out and the new one in.2 philips screws to remove the coil retainer and replace the coils.

removed the top of dryer, pulled front panel back from drum and installed snubber(Front Drum guide).

after numerous holes put in my families clothes i looked on line and found "partselect.com". i ordered the front drum glide after seeing a similar story about the clothes being torn and getting caught and my family and i have our new dryer back!! yeah :<)

1. unpluged the dryer and turned off the gas.
2. pulled dryer out so i'd have ample room to work on it.
3. used large flat blade screwdriver in the front between the top lid and dryer face to gently pop-up the lid.
4. removed 4 screws from inside, that hold the face to the main box leaving the wires all intact.
Found the coils on the lower left, held in place by two screws and plate.
5. took a good look at thier orientation before unpluging old and installing new, I recommend one at a time.
6. Vacuumm any exceess lint and check foam seal between lint trap and exhuast duc, the glue came undone on mine causing extra lint dust that is potentially flamable.
6. screw dryer front back on to main box, make sure to check wiring harness and that all electrical blade connectors are still pluged in to their componants.
7. At this point plug in, turn on gas and do a test run.
8.if everything checks out good then lower top make sure flexable exhuast hose is still connected on hte back of the dryer.
9. Tell your wife or girlfriend or husband or boy friend they can now finish your laundry :)

As others have described in more detail... I lifted the top, removed the 2 screws holding the front panel (one on each side, inside the control panel on either side - not the easiest to get at, but not too bad), popped the clips holding the front panel in place and removed it. With the front panel off, the location of the coils is obvious (lower left side). The only challenging aspect of this repair is that the 2 screws holding the coils in place are really torqued in so it was crucial to use the exactly correct size screwdriver and not let the screwdriver slip while unscrewing those screws. Actually swapping out the coils took seconds, of course they have to go in exactly the same way as the old ones. I did take a few minutes extra to vacuum out years of lint from the inside of the dryer. Overall, much easier and cheaper than I was expecting and now I know where everything is inside the cabinet.

Just pressed the knob on.

It was very easy, looked and found the right match and pulled off the broken one and pushed on the new one

Pushed the new knob on to the stem -AWESOME!

Took it out of the bag and put it on.