GCET1041AS1 Frigidaire Dryer - Instructions

selected correct replacement knob. used small screw driver to remove small black metal sleeve from switch shaft. (had left that in place to be able to turn on dryer with needle nose pliers while waiting on knob). aligned flat of new knob with switch shaft and gently pressed into place.

Googled dryer start knob, Part Select was second site I clicked on, found within 1 min, part was inexpensive, easy to order, arrived quickly and fit perfectly. Excellent online ordering experience.

carefully pry up on front washer top to release plastic keeper pins,remove 2 phillips screws from beneath lower front washer panel,slightly lift upward on panel to release.remove old broken belt,push new belt beneath large tub pulley,put belt on small motor pulley,push back belt tension /idler arm,start belt on large tub pulley,turn tub pulley by hand to run belt on,release tension on idler arm.replace front panel and lower top.WALAAH!!!! you are done.

Unplugged Dryer.
Opened top of Dryer, over the drum.
Removed Thermal Limiter.
Tested the Thermal Limiter - found it was open.
Checked all vents and exhaust tube for lint build-up.
Replaced Thermal Limiter.
Closed top of dryer.
Plugged Dryer back.
Tested Dryer - it works.

uplugged washer took front off washer 2 screws pryed up top pump was mounted with 2 screws and 2 wires took off found change in pump and the fins to pump worn off ordered part off line the wait for part was longer than the amount of time to fix problem and cost of part saved me about $25-35 if I was to buy local worth wait save money and fix problem washes like new spins and drains all water from tub.

I found a electrical diagram and some common problems on some websites which led me to check the thermal limiters. There are two right up top near the back of the dryer - one mounted closer to the heating coils and one mounted directly to the sheet metal on the inside back of the dryer. Using an DMM on the "Ohms" setting, I checked each sensor to make sure that they were "closed" (near zero ohms). Sure enough, the sensor mounted on the back of the enclosure was open (high resistance) which prevented the dryer from starting. To confirm, I shorted the two leads going to the sensor together temporarily and wrapped them with electrical tape and then tested the dryer - it worked perfectly. The part from Part Select was ordered and shipped very quickly. Since the sheet metal screws holding the sensor on were difficult to access with the drum in place, I used small machine screws/nuts to fasten the sensor - this allowed me to tighten the nuts from the outside of the dryer, making it very easy to attach.

After reading the possiblilities of problem, I determined that the drain pump was not working; therefore I ordered a new one. When I opened the washer to replace the part, I found out that the pump was working but the filter was stuffed with pieces of rubber that came out from a rug I washed. Once all the stuff was removed, the washer worked just fine. PartSelect was very gracious to accept the returned with not questions asked!! Thanks partSelect.

First I removed the top panel held by four screws at rear of panel, pulling the panel foward and up. Then disconnected the power and water connections. Then I removed the two screws holding the flow valve to the washer rear panel,pulled the valve foward ,removed the two electric connectors, pinched the water clamp with pliers and removed the water connection to the valve. Then replaced with the new valve followed the above steps in reverse order, finishing up by re placing the water connections and power. Then checked fo proper replacenent and leaks before replacing top panel.

Removed all the knobs but the master washing machine control knob, then the control and cover panels by removing the two screws that held each one. Then removed the end plastic pieces to allow access to screws holding the switch onto control panel. Used pliers to pull wires off the old switch and put them back on new switch. Screwed it back in place and re-attached plastic end pieces. Re-attached the control panel, then the cover panel under the control panel.

It is just a knob that starts the dryer. The knob is rather large, but it turns on the dryer. No tools needed. It took 5 seconds.

Removed two screws at bottom of front panel, removed front panel. Used pliers to remove hose clamp on drain hose. Fished hose out of chassis and installed new hose. Tested for leaks.

removed the screws, disconnected the wires. installed the new elements replaced the wires.

Disconnect water and electricity.
Shop-vac out the water in the internal drain hose.
Remove back cover, tip washer on side to gain access.
Un-clamp rubber drain hose,unscrew pump and remove.
Cleanout filter cup (yuk!) find coins and hairpins.
Attach drain hose to new pump and re-install with hose clamps from hardware store because spring clamps were impossible (arthritis in fingers).
Reconnect water and electricity.
Test for leaks and tighten clamps if necessary.

The cat was not used for mechanical advantage. Rather he was present for worker's safety regulations. He is a bit of a tool though.

Firstly, I removed the knob from the packaging. Secondly, I stuck it on the peg.

I am not a professional repair person and do not condone or recommend any of the methods used during this repair procedure. The views and opinions expressed in this repair story are for entertainment purposes only.

Had to trial and error my way to getting the control panel off. The parts diagrams on this site were very helpful, but didn't tell the entire story. Started to pull the entire front dryer panel off then found that only needed to remove two panel screws to gain access to all the screws holding the control panel on. With those removed the panel came off as a unit and was easily disassembled. Screws securing the switches are easlily stripped, so be careful. Rest of job was just pulling off wiring clips and reattaching. Everything went back together easily.