FLSGC72GCS7 Frigidaire Dryer - Instructions

I ordered the part from partselect using the live chat line. I got the part confirmed and it arrived without incident and on time. It’s an easy fix. Take the old knob off by a slight pull. Put the new knob on being attentive to the D shaft. Push it on with slight pressure. Easy.

Poped up top, removed front pannel (2 phillip head screws) observed failed belt. Replaced belt. Tensioner can be held back by hand so it was easy. Works great. Part Select Rocks! I put in the model number and bam, there was my needed part, 3 days later it was in my hands. This was after me wasting time driving around town trying to find it at home depot type stores to no avail. I'll never do that again. This website makes repairing appliances a snap. Gotta love on-line shopping! woo hoo

We have a washer/dryer stack type. For a week or so, my wife mentioned that washer is louder than normally is, shortly, the washer stopped spinning and the clothes were finishing soaking wet.

I opened the front panel sheet and saw the broken belt, ordered the belt online. The belt arrived in 2 days, and the actual belt-replacement took 10 minutes. The washer functional like new.

The first thing I did was logged onto the internet to search the web for my dryer information. Next, after I found the correct model, the site referred me to the parts section and that is where I determined the problem was the M series ignition coil. I then unplugged the dryer and turned off the gas. I took a screwdriver and popped the top off and cut the wire straps that held the door strips and the light to the front panel. I then unplugged the door switch at the connector - HOWEVER - DO NOT TRY TO REMOVE THE WIRES FROM THE ACTUAL DOOR SWITCH BECAUSE THEY ARE VERY FRAGILE AND CAN EASILY BREAK. Next, I removed the two screws that hold the front panel on. By using a slight bit of pressure, I removed the front panel and was able to locate where the ignition coil switch was. (It was right in front) I then removed the two screws that held the clamp down, as well as the bad coils. The coils easily slid off the post and the new pieces slid back on just as easy. I then replaced the screws and clamps to hold the new pieces in place and replaced the front panel. **NOTE ~ while the front panel is off, it would be a good time to clean out all the built up dirt and lint that has accumulated over the years. Lastly, I re-connected all switches and wires and replaced the top panel. Once I turned the gas back on, everything ran beautifully.

I cut off the four that didn't line up - I suppose since this was a gasket that fit several makes, I should expect this type of problem.

Took apart and replaced the start switch. Easy.

I just pushed the washer on its side on a price of wood. I put a pan to catch the drain water.It was then as easy as detaching two boots and two bolts that hold the drain motor on.Do it in reverse and you got it.Oh first don't forget to unplug the electrical wires ect.

I unplugged the dryer and pryed open the top by inserting a screw driver in the space 1inch from the top on the side. After i opened it and lifed it up, I removed the one screw on both sides found in the inner part towards the front top. I then removed the front panel. The coils are toward the bottom left side. They are held in by a bracket which is held in by 2 screws. I removed the outer screw and loosened the inner screw. ( you can remove both screws but it was not necessary).I then swumg the bracket around and was able to lift out the coils. I removed the connectors and relaced the coils. Once done I re-assembled the dryer. The problem was solved.

Dryer was working, only burner was working occasionally only. So, in result the drying time was very long, and clothes were cold and still not satisfactionally dry; occasionally only it was hot. It became obvious to me that gas burner only occasionally is working. On the Internet I found some instructables, mostly on YouTube, but also on this site (the Burner diagram): thus I have learned that the culprit must be the two tiny ignition coils: they worked only sometimes, so it was only a jeopardy when checking them using a continuation meter (voltmeter with continuation feature). For the access to the burner combo I used a small checking door right below the large door, in front wall of the dryer. There are only two small screws which hold a small piece of metal which cover these tiny coils. However, I had to disconnect the burner from gas pipe to get better access to those screws. (Of course, I also disconnected the dryer from power and I had to disconnect those wire connections on the burner combo to get access to the burner). It works perfectly after this repair.

we took the hoses off then unscrewed the bracket that was connected to the part and then once out we put bracket onto the new part and screwed it back to the washer connected the hose back and WOW the water was flowing

The dryer is part of a combination washer / dryer stand up unit. I removed the panel above the washer and under the dryer. Then I removed four screws on the control panel and pulled the panel out slightly to access the start switch. I disconnected two wires from the switch, then from the front of the panel, I removed the two screws that held the start switch in place. When I got the new start switch, I reversed the steps to install the new switch.

Disconnect power,take water hoses off using pliers,they are really tight,remove 2 philips head screws,pull 2 wire connectors off and water fill hose squeezing wire clamp and sliding clamp back on hose.reverse to install.Works like a champ.

removed top cover to access valve dissconnected hoses and wires then unscrewed valve and replaced

Removed front and back panels as well as the dryer front, placed belt on drum and drive motor. I found that taking the door off the dryer front made the reassembly much easer.

I lifted the top at the front edge, slid the top back, disconnected the ground wire connected to the top at the rear edge, just slides off.
Then removed the phillips screws on the inside front edge, only one on each side,near top of dryer disconnect the wiring harness at the right side, cut the nylon tie strap holding harness also.
Tip front panel out a little and lift up, comes right off.
The coils are in plain site on the gas valve, remove the wires, and the two screws holding the bracket that holdes them in place, slide the old ones off and start putting back together.
I also used a vacume and cleaned all the lint and dust off everything I could, including the air intake at the rear of machine, "Peice of Cake"