FGQ221CAS0 Frigidaire Dryer - Instructions

The best part of using this site the first time was that they had pictures and measurements of the part....it made me sure I wasnt ordering something that wouldn't work.

Its not a tough repair job, its broken a few times in the 8-9 years I've had it. I just order the part, it arrives promptly, I put in on...job done! I would use this site again anytime I need a part to something and have recommended it many times to friends and family.

To summarize.....it's just great when a process works so well and is so easy.

First I unplugged the dryer. I removed the 3 knobs on the front control panel as well as the 6 screws on the back. The start switch easily removes by turning it 45 degrees and pulls out. I used a pair of needle nose pliers to pull the two connectors loose from the old switch. (They are color coded wires, 1 brown and 1 gray. The switch is marked with the numbers 1 and 2 on the connectors so remember which one goes where) Then i hooked up the new switch in reverse order and was back in business in about 5 minutes.

The repair went very smoothly. I'm a woman in my mid 20's and was prepared to buy a new dryer but I saw the part online for a very reasonable price and the video instructions were extremely helpful. I was able to fix the dryer quickly and cost effectively AND the part arrived in only 2 days! It all worked out very well.

lifted the top panel, there were 2 screws to remove the front panel, then the coils were right there on the bottom left side. a screw or two hold the coils inplace. Then just unplug the old coils and plug in to the new coils.

removing was easy just open lower rear LH panel . Ordering was easy ,shipping seemed like alot? to install the new belt pop top of dryer I used a screw driver to help. remove front panel 2 screws then it also has about six clips may have to have gloves on so you do not skin your hands like I did.... lots of sharp edges. pay attention to the clips, so if they come off they will not be lost. panel will tilt slightly fwd then raise up and set aside. now you can slip the belt over the drum. I kept all the slack at the top till it was in position. the groved rubber side goes against the drum and the motor pully. then extend the spring tensioner into position . I rotated the drum a few times by hand to make sure everything was in position. replace front. check it is lined up well before forceing clips in. check felt material is properly in place, as you rotate it into position. push down top . good to go. I ran it for awhile watching everything work before placing it back in service. you may want to clean it out some while it is apart I used an air compressor and shop vac simultaniously as that seemed to work best. Wanted my son to do it as I think he had it over loaded as to why it broke? It maybe the bearings are going but it felt solid ?? I should find out in a month or so shich was which! I did not see any easy way to get to grease it. The belt was easy though pretty sure my son could have handled it!

used a putty knife to press the clips away from the door and lift the assembly away out of the door. Used the putty knife to push the clip over the lip and snap the new handle into place

This was a Sears Dryer, also know as Kenmore, This dryer can be stacked or side by side. In this case it was stacked. There are no directions on how to replace this part. For this model made in 2005 the lid of the dryer is held in front by two clips. You open the lid simply by prying the two front corners up with a flat head screw driver. The front of the top lid pops right up. You may have to remove the mounts in back if you cant lift the dryer lid enough to be able to get your hands in. UNPLUG THE DRYER I got a nasty shock. There are two wires on the switch, remember how they go and where they are, that's important. Turn the switch (from the front or back) so that it pops out. Remove and replace the wires put it back in (from behind/top) and twist a 1/4 turn into place. Plug, test and simply push the cover back down onto the clips. Done.

remove top cover, remove front of dryer, unscrew two #2 screws from gas valve coil hol down bracket. replace coils. reassemble dryer.. works great.. had already replaced the thermostate and flame sensor.. didn't change anything.. the coil set did the trick..

I bought part PS419092 (Rotary Knob) for my Firgidaire FDGB23RGS2 Dryer.

This knob I bought (PS419092) is much cheaper than the parts recommeneded for Frigidaire dryers ( knobs: PS417309 and PS416982 ). It is $6 instead of $18.

The only difference is that it (PS419092) is white instead of cream/off-white.

Putting the knob on was super easy and I'm glad I saved money by buying the less expensive part.

I remove the old lint filter and just put the new one in.

There are only three screws holding the drum in. However, to get it out I had to remove the front panels, and the top of the dryer part of the washer-dryer combo. The drum came out easily, but getting the new one in was pretty hard. I had to guess how the drive belt was routed around the motor pulley and idler pulley, since I couldn't see it until I'd removed the drum. Since the new drum wasn't exactly like the old one, I had to remove the glide strip from the front panel to get it to fit. At present, the unit is not completely reassembled, so I can't say I've been entirely successful. Tomorrow, I will put it back together, cross my fingers, and switch it on. Wish me luck!

Followup: The dryer part of this washer-dryer combo is back online. At first, the dryer made a squealing noise, but eventually quieted down. At present, the drum replacement seems to be just fine. It cost about $215, and, except for a few cuts due to sharp-edged metal, a dropped clip that disappeared into the depths of the bottom of the washer, it is actually REPAIRED. I could have used more specific help, but, all in all, it has been pretty easy, and pretty effective.

Determined that the coil on the gas valve wasn't pulling in to ignite. Using an ohmmeter, I determined the coil was open. The coil was removed by pulling off the wire connecter and removing the two phillips screws holding the bracket over the two coils. The coil then slides out. I slid the new coil into place, replaced the bracket and two screws and reconnected the wire connector. It worked immediately. The actual repair only took 15 minutes. The bulk of the time was spent tracking down which part had failed.

This is a stacked wash/dryer.
- unpluged washer/ dryer
- removed front panels under dryer drum area
- disconedted the wiring connection from washer to dryer
- removed front door panel
- disconnected and removed belt
- removed screws holding in drum
- removed drum
- replaced felt on the door (came with drum replacement kit)
- aligned and attached new drum
- replaced belt on drum
- aligned and installed door
- reconnected wiring connecting washer and dryer
- installed fron panels under dry door
- pluged in washer/dryer
Works like new

Checked PartSelect online for people with a. similar problem. Found most common problem was the coils.
I opened the top, removed the two screws holding the front panel, unclipped the wiring harness from the machine to the door and removed/cut the plastic wire tie and front came off easily. I put the front piece to the side after changing the light bulb. I cleaned out a large amount of lint and found the coils on the left hand side without trouble. Carefully disconnected the wiring clips, unscrewed the holding screw and removed the old coils. Installed the new colis, 1 has three prongs and the other has 2 so you ca'nt mix them up. Replaced the hold screw, re-connected the witing harness, installed a new wire tie, and re-stalled the two holding screws. Closed the cover and turned it on.
At first it did not heat up which was dissappointing; but then I left it alone and 15 minutes later it worked like new! And heated up just fine ever since.

Total cost about $35.00 with shipping. I took a chance that I would not need the sensor or the ignitor based on the comments of others and I just bought the coils. If I had to do it over I would have bought all three and saved on the shipping.

I disassembled the dryer using instructions from the following website for White Westinghouse (pictures really helped)
After removing the drum, I first noticed that the grouding ball was sitting on the bottom of the dryer (along with much lint). I then saw that the bracket for bearing support cup and the bearing support cup were both worn well past use. The bracket had been worn down about 1/4" to the SE with matching wear on the bearing support cup. There was a hole in the bottom of the bearing support cup (hence the grouding ball on the floor of dryer).
I installed the new idler pulley assembly and completely vacuumed out the dryer (I didn't know lint could get so stiff!). I installed the new parts from the kit once received (and the new belt bought previously) and the dryer works great. I'm so used to the obnoxious squealing that it seems odd to be so quiet.

The internet is a magnificent thing!