FER341ZAS1 Frigidaire Dryer - Instructions

got new door handle, inserted and clipped into place, no tools needed, time to repair 5 secs, 1 sec to insert handle, 4 secs to open and shut door numerous times to make sure it was in right. Washer and dryer are over 10 years old, but I like them because you can repair them if something breaks, with the newer models don't know if you can do this.

It was simple, removed the start switch and replaced the knob.

Tried to follow the directions of others but ran into a problem with getting the top panel off. This is how I did it.
1 Disconnect power and dryer vent tube. Move away from wall.
2 Remove slotted access panel in back of dryer and take belt off motor and idler pulley. Leave on drum.
3 Unscrew the screws on the back of the top panel brackets( mine are silver) where they screw into the back panel and pull up and to the back to get the top panel off. Someone else said to slide a putty knife in the front to release the top but my machine has no spring clips.
4 With the cover off you can see the two heat sensors and I tested them with a multi meter they registered 0 which meant they were OK.
5 Remove the screws that hold the control board on and the plugs that are wired into it making sure that you draw a diagram to remember the wiring. There was a zip tie that I cut to be able to feed the plugs through the hole in the front panel that the wiring must go when the front panel drops down.
6 Remove the screws on the top of the front panel and the screws on the inside of the side panel that hold the front panel secure.
7 A lot goes on on step 7 because the front panel which is hinged drops from the top down to the floor. Diagram and remove all wires there are two green ground wires on the side, Three wires on the door lock, two wires for the light and wires for a moisture sensor. When disconnected feed the control panel plugs and other wires through the hole in the front panel and lift up and out on the front panel it will pop out. Lower it to the floor and let it rest there.
8 Now you can get the drum out of the way by pulling up then out the front where the front panel is now on the floor. Leave the belt on it.
9 Diagram the wiring on the heating element there are connections for the element and the sensor. They gave me a new sensor screwed onto the new heating element. Then unscrew it from the back panel the screws are on the back of the machine.
10 Install is the reverse of the rip down

In hindsight I would have liked to have had the new part before I started the project because the wiring wasn't so fresh in my head a week later when it arrived even with diagrams. Over all it was very simple and took under two hours to complete. I did clean everything I could inside the machine and reglued a couple of the seals that had fallen loose. Works like new and probably went because of overheating with a clogged vent. Lesson... clean your dryer vent every year or sooner.

The repair was a bit more simple that what I had read here earlier, to see if I could handle it or I would have to call someone. The biggest relief was that I didn't have to remove any of the connectors from the control panel. Only 4 total connectors were removed at the Heating Element itself. Here's the steps I performed: 1) Pop the top off by prying the lid to release the 2 front clips and lift the top all the way up (like the hood of a car). Rest this against a door or wall. 2) Remove the rear access panel (2 phillips screws) on the bottom left of the unit. Remove the tension from the dryer belt and take it off the pully. 3) Go back to the front and remove (4 allen heads) from the back of the dryer drum. The drum should now have some play. 4) remove a plastic retainer that stops the drum from being lifted out. Now you should be able to lift out the drum. There is a ball & socket fitting that needs to come apart. This can be done by sharply lifting straight up. This gives you access to the heating element and you should be able to see where the coil has burned, thus opening the circuit. 5) remove (4 phillips screws) from the back panel of the dryer. Remove two pairs of connectors that attach to the heating element. Now it's out and you can begin the swap of the new element and reverse this process to put it back together. If I had to do this again, it would take less approx 30 minutes.

watched video on replacing rear bearing.although rear bearing was not the part(s) i needed to replace, video instructed disassembly procedures to get to the drum glides. this was a very simple and easy to follow video. repair was a breezeand took roughly 25 minutes. the most time consuming segement of repair was vaccuuming out lint,that was 15 minutes. In future, as a preventative, i plan to remove front of machine to clean annually.
Thank you.

Unplug, lift top, unplug 5 wires, remove 2 screws, pull dryer front away while supporting drum. Remove old glides, snap in new. Reverse disassembly procedure

i just put the knobs on very easily.

Used nut driver to remove screw and cover from dryer cord terminal block, used screw driver to remove two screws securing old terminal block, cut dammaged wire and stripped wire back and crimped on new terminal connecter, replaced old terminal block with new one, replaced two screws, installed new cord, and replaced cover plate and screw.

Like the review of the guy who said "no story to tell. received knob and popped it on." I did not realize when I spoke to the Fridgedaire 1-800 number that I needed the model number; even though, I had the part number of the knob. When I came across your website, I entered the part number which was on the back of the knob and your website brought up the correct item I needed. I had seen the part on another website and your pricing was more than half off their price. Plus you shipped it directly to me two days later.

Thanks, fm

First I unplugged the dryer. I removed the 3 knobs on the front control panel as well as the 6 screws on the back. The start switch easily removes by turning it 45 degrees and pulls out. I used a pair of needle nose pliers to pull the two connectors loose from the old switch. (They are color coded wires, 1 brown and 1 gray. The switch is marked with the numbers 1 and 2 on the connectors so remember which one goes where) Then i hooked up the new switch in reverse order and was back in business in about 5 minutes.

The repair went very smoothly. I'm a woman in my mid 20's and was prepared to buy a new dryer but I saw the part online for a very reasonable price and the video instructions were extremely helpful. I was able to fix the dryer quickly and cost effectively AND the part arrived in only 2 days! It all worked out very well.

Disconect power, Removed top and front of dryer.
The broken zipper was easly removed at this point. The plastic glides easly snap out and in. The felt took some more time to scrape off and clean the old glue. Glue the new felt into place and replace front and top. The parts were shiped promptly and the dryer was out of service for only three days.

Removed old guides ( some of the snap in fastners were broken off). REplaced guides by rolling drum, easy to snap in @ drum bottom each time.

Girls you can do it on your own!

The easiest way is taking the back off the dryer but if you can't do that just pop the top up and unscrew the front. Just make sure you remember how you take everything out and put it back in the same.

The most difficult part is trying to line up the holes for the heating element, and holding it there while screwing the element in place.

It's a breeze!

I only had to take the timer knob off and replace it with the new one.