MLCE10ZEMW3 Frigidaire Dryer - Instructions

I watched the video on the repair and followed it. Super easy. Repair only took 30 mins. Please note there are 2 glides. Make sure to order 2.

Took it apart and installed the parts. Then I threw the dryer in the trash and bought a new one.

removed old plug which snap out very easy and
snap in new plug.

took apart and replaced parts easy to do but no one in my town can get me parts. thay want 100.00 gust to come out and look at it so found parts online and thats that

took out the old one and put in the new one

Ordered part from partselect.com. Part was back ordered; however they were very proactive in communicating status updates! When it arrived it was simply a matter of removing door using a philips screwdriver, installing the new hinge and presto - job complete! Kudos to partselect.com ??

I cut off the four that didn't line up - I suppose since this was a gasket that fit several makes, I should expect this type of problem.

I found a you tube video that walked me thru the steps. Only problem encountered was 2 screws which were different and a little difficult, but became obvious as the control panel wouldn't loosen as video suggested. Otherwise the repair was fairly easy, and VERY SATISFYING.

Very slowly and carefully, you tube videos and schematic very helpful.

UNPLUGGED the dryer!!! Search this site they have instructions for many of the tasks they sell parts for... disconnect the vent hose, removed the access panel for the motor & belt (rear) (1/4 nut driver), slipped the belt off the idler pulley and motor pulley, carefully lifted the front edge of the top panel & rotated it back on the hinges, labeled and removed the door interlock wires (2), removed 4 screws securing the top of the front panel (5/16 nut driver) (magnetic is best), removed a yellow guide also attached to the top of the front support (5/16 nut driver), rotated the top of the front panel clear of the drum opening (while supported) and lifted the front panel off the bottom guides, carefully lifted the back of the drum straight up about an inch while supporting the front of the drum, remove the drum from the opening created by removing the front panel (the belt should come out with the drum, removed the rear parts of the new bearing (atteched to teh back of the dryer) 5/16 nut driver... you will need a helper to catch the ball bearing holder on the exterior back of the dryer in the middle, unscrew the drum half of the bearing assembly from inside the drum (3 phillips head screws). I have done this several years ago and you will be amazed at how much dust and lint there is... CLEAN AND VACUUM EVERYWHERE AND THEN ALL THE PLACES YOU MISSED DONT FORGET THE VENT HOSE. Clean all of the old grease from the back of the drum and dryer. Installation is the reverse of removal. Don't forget the new grease and DON"T loose the cute little ball bearing that comes in the new kit. There are lots of sharp metal edges inside so use caution and hopefully you got a new belt since belt replacement requires all of the same steps except for the actual bearing removal.

I can attest to this system only on my model since this is the second bearing I have done.

Sure beats the cost of a new dryer!!! Thanks PARTS SELECT This is the 5th appliance I have repaired for freinds and family with parts purchased from your site.

Took a putty knife and released top clips. Tipped top back , and took out 4 screws holding front cover in place. Lifted out drum, replaced bearing plate. Removed 2 screws and replaced back panel bearing. Placed drum back in place, installed front panel, snapped top back in place and job was done. Very easy. Took about one hour.

As all others have said, without being redundant, I'd view post #1 or #2 for a good detailed set of instructions.

The primary issue I had was with the stainless steel ball bearing that was shipped with the kit. I couldn't figure out what it was used for, because when I removed the bearing carrier the ball fell out before I could see where the original one was located. The stainless ball bearing is a grounding ball, not a bearing. It goes on the exterior of the plastic bearing carrier/receiver.

Once I figured that part out, it was a piece of cake.

Took a little longer than other people's repairs, but I also put a new belt on and re-worked the exhaust duct for solid ducting versus flexible duct. fine-tuning the rigid duct work was a piece of cake with the tumbler out, since i could crawl right inside the chassis and make sure everything would line up (level legs, adjust elbows, etc)

First I took the drum out of the dryer. This was an easy tear down. I had to remember 2 wires, and a belt assembly ( 2 pullies ). I removed 3 screws inside the drum to release the bearing assembly from the back. Then I went to the dryer chasis and removed the mounting bracket by removing 2 screws. I simply replaced the mounting bracket with the new one. This required having to use a magnet to hold a small ball bearing in place while I worked the rest of the pieces in position.I greased it up and went back to the drum. I replaced the old bearing assembly with the new one. Easy. I took the time to shop-vac the inside of the dryer. There was a lot of loose lint, candy rappers, coins, etc. Finally, I put it back together. Unfortunately, this is the forth (4th) time I've had to do this. It's cheaper than buying a new dryer. Now, I've got to fix the washer.

i read reviews and finally found a person that replace the motor, rear bearing, front top glides, and tension arm/pulley.. i had cleaned the fan motor with a tooth brush best i could the 1 time i had it apart. after the 4th time apart and reading a different review that said replace the fan motor housing/fan. i did and noise gone.

replaced rear drum bearing kit. Watched video made it real easy. The only problem was getting the belt back on the pulleys.