CFLE3900UW0 Frigidaire Dryer - Instructions

First removed the top of the dryer, then the front of the dryer. Took the plate off the back left of the dryer to disengage the belt off the pulley.
Took the three screws out that hold the drum in place, of course the third screw stripped and had to use a screw remover, which didn't work, but the adjustable pliers did so then lifted the drum out of the plastic reservoir in which the bearing laid. Next unscrewed the two bolts holding the plastic reservoir which also loosened the small metal piece on the back of the dryer where a small bearing is located. Put the new parts in, but instead of putting the larger bearing that fits in the plastic reservoir, I decided to put it on the drum first and guide it into the reservoir all at once, this worked well . Prior to that I put the new plastic piece on the inside and taped it there while holding that piece put the small metal piece with the small bearing on the back of the dryer. I'm sure it is alot easier with two people doing this part, but it worked and I didn't lose the small bearing. Next put the front of the dryer back on and then put the belt back on the pulley, then the top.
It definitely helped immensely to read how someone did this, just follow the instructions given and there you go, no more annoying squeak and also a feeling of accomplishment and thanks to the person who wrote the story on how to do this job, appreciate it.

lacked instructions. Internet yielded a simple paragraph. Scored real bonus when we discovered the lint build up past the internal filter was approaching catastropic level. Replaced the exhaust tube (plastic) with rigid metal and resolved to disassemble and clean dryer on 2 year cycle in future. Kit just isn't complete without detailed instructions. Parts were complete and sufficient. Local codes have eliminated the plactic exhaust tube. Recommend that all old installs refit to rigid or semirigid before the fire happens!

I attempted to figure it out first but to no avail. Found an article on e-how and followed the steps to access the drum. Found your company on internet and called the 800 number to order the part. Delivery was quick (2 days) and it was the exact part. Thank you.

I first looked at your directions then felt I could do the repair. So I ordered the part. The video was extremely helpful and allowed me to follow each step in the process. Last time I paid $270 for the exact repair. This time I costs me under $30. Plus I was able to clean out the entire inside of the dryer. The sitr instructions were very helpful and on target for any level of experience. I fixed my own dryer and saved a ton on it! Thank You, Randy In Colorado

purchased part (drum belt) didn't fit the drum it was larger,, i select the size according to model number and serial number but unfortunately it was wasting of time and money and i still don't have dryer.

just changed filter

Popped the topped using a putty knife to free two clips in front. Remove two screws now accessible on the front inside panel. Remove two wires to door switch. Remove rear access door, two screws. Remove belt from tensioner in rear and remember or take picture of how it goes. Lift barrel slightly and pivot front panel out of the way. Lift barrel free from ball socket in rear. Lift out from front panel area. R & R kit and put back in reverse order.

I researched possible causes on line and watched a PartsSelect video on YouTube on how to test. I ended up misreading test results and ordered the High Limit Thermostat but subsequently realized problem was the Terminal Block. No problem, PartsSelect took back the Thermostat (I hadn't installed it) and shipped me the Terminal Block. My dryer was back up and running in less than 7 days from initial analysis to installation of Terminal Block. Instructions that came in confirmation email for installation were perfect and easy to follow. Total cost with new power cord from Home Depot was less than $50 vs a quoted service call of $175+ parts from local electrician.

I seen a post on your website referring to the exact problem I was having. One of your staff recommended changing the control thermistor, which I did following the U-Tube video link you supplied. The repair went well and the dryer now operates perfectly ! Thanks for the accurate and helpful info.

I first diagnosed the problem using a Google search. Amazing how many hits I got and after reading a few was pretty certain what the cause was and what parts I probably needed to make the repair.
Some of the articles I read had links or mentioned PartSelect, so I searched for my model # and found the parts I would probably need. Knowing that I could probably get the parts I needed I disassembled the dryer (pretty easy really) and removed the old suspect part. It was devoid of lubricant and the bearing and ball showed some wear so I ordered the Bearing Assembly suggested by PartSelect (the illustrations looked just like my old parts). I left the dryer disassembled while I waited for the part, figuring it would take a week or so to arrive.
Much to my surprise, the part arrived three days later and after cleaning the dryer innards of all collected lint I put it all back together in 30 minutes.
So for a little research, a $30 part, and about an hour of my time, I have a clean and quiet operating dryer. I see no reason I can't get another 10 or so years out of it.
I consider myself a reasonably handy guy but had never worked on a dryer before. I'll be unlikely to ever call a repairman without first doing some investigation and seeing if the parts are available. With the internet and PartSelect I think I could take on a lot of other repairs I'm not familiar with. Thanks for a great outcome this time around.
Kevin

Disconnect from electric and water supply, and move appliance to an area where you can access front, rear, and top of dryer. On rear of dryer remove the 2 screws on the small square panel, remove panel to expose dryer motor and tensioner pulley. On top of dryer remove the 4 front screws, but not the center screw, it is not necessary as it is holding something on the inside. Open dryer door and remove the lint trap, exposing the vent. Remove the 2 plastic snaps using a flat screwdriver. This will disconnect the vent from the front panel. Next remove the 2 small screws on top sides of the control panel. Remove the 2 screws on angled back panel, and remove panel. Remove approx. 10 more screws holding the under panel on, and on the bottom of control panel. Remove under panel, and slide control panel up and pull out, disconnect electrical connection on left side. Remove front off of dryer carefully, the weight of the drum is holding it in place. Vacuum everything, remove broken belt, put new belt on drum, rib side down, and slide all the way back all around. Go to rear of dryer and remove tensioner arm off of its post, there is a slot to do so, put belt on motor pulley, reapply tensioner arm in position so belt goes around it. Spin the drum a few times by pulling on the belt to make sure there are no twists. Place the front of dryer back on, put two corner screws in the top, and reseat the drum. Reconnect the electrical connection inside dryer you disconnected earlier, plug in dryer, and turn on to test. If it heats and turns well done, if not good luck. Unplug, slide vent back in, reinstall plastic clips, and ensure that vent is seated in the foam pad on the exhaust motor vent. Work backwards and put panels back in place with screws. Job done.

All I had to do was pop in the new door catch. Works perfectly.

removed the old gasket with pliers (noting where the beginning/end of the gasket was) then installed new gasket in the exact location with very light pressure on each rubber insert point. Voila!!

just put it in the dryer filter area

After watching the video that explained and showed how to replace the bearing assembly, installation was a breeze. Great company to do business with. Ordered the part and had it in two days, and the dryer was working again asap. Thanks PartSelect
PS this dryer is 23 years old.