EIED5CHMB0 Electrolux Dryer - Instructions

You must disconnect appliance from the gas, water and vent to access the back. Remove the top of the dryer which then allows you to remove the rear panel by removing all screws, You may also have to remove 2 electrical connections to get this panel off. Now you have access to the air duct. To remove the air duct there are 3 screws inside the dryer and 2 screws on the lower part of the air duct. One of the lower screws is facing toward the inside of the dryer and you will need a 12"+ screwdriver to be able to remove. Once you do all that install the new part and repeat steps in reverse.

I used utube on how to dismantle the dryer. In fact I use a video created by
Parts select. The hardest part was getting a spring that holds the tensioner on the drum belt.

We followed a YouTube video and did the repair ourselves over an afternoon. We had one screw leftover (?) but everything went back together and now the dryer works like a dream! We bought a PartSelect part because we don't want to have to do this very often! ??

Main problem was the bearing, replaced the belt and felt seal as well
The video instruction was very helpful
Was easy with basic mechanical aptitude
Dryer running great now
All parts from Partselect.com
Have ordered from them before and would order from them again

removed top and front of dryer then removed the drum to expose the blower housing. then removed the damaged unit and replaced with the new unit . Then put it back together. The hardest part for me was putting the drum back in.

Just find & follow a YouTube video instruction on how to replace the control board. Only tool needed was a Phillips head screwdriver. Instruction was clear to follow. Very happy to have purchased the control board at a reasonable price from partselect.com.

Once we got the dryer out of the cramped where we could work on it, the project went a little quicker. I'd recommend using paper plates/bowls, that you label, to hold all the screws for each piece you remove off the back. It doesn't seem like it will be a lot, but we had at least 20-30 screws in 4-5 different sizes. Unlike someone else's install, we had to completely pull the white back panel off, as well as the main back cover, due to one screw holding the air duct from the inside of the dryer compartment (meaning we couldn't reach everything from the back). Getting this screw out was a challenge and seemed like a huge design flaw, but if you can't get to that screw, the old air duct isn't coming out. There are 2 other screws holding the air duct but they're easy to reach once the back panel is off.
Once that was taken out the process was straightforward, we just took our time reattaching everything step-by-step. Now our dryer works like new.

Inserted lint filter into slot.
Replacement is exact match to original filter.

I researched possible causes on line and watched a PartsSelect video on YouTube on how to test. I ended up misreading test results and ordered the High Limit Thermostat but subsequently realized problem was the Terminal Block. No problem, PartsSelect took back the Thermostat (I hadn't installed it) and shipped me the Terminal Block. My dryer was back up and running in less than 7 days from initial analysis to installation of Terminal Block. Instructions that came in confirmation email for installation were perfect and easy to follow. Total cost with new power cord from Home Depot was less than $50 vs a quoted service call of $175+ parts from local electrician.

I purchase one tube of heat resistant adhesive but I change both seals if you could afford to buy a second to I would recommend you do so the one tube just made it. For instructions on how to prepare the drum for installing new seals I went on YouTube

removed the top of the cabinet,unplugged wiring from control board, removed screws fastening control board and installed new control board.

i simply took the old one out and replaced it with the new one. it fit perfectly.