VED6505GW0 Crosley Dryer - Instructions

The original door catch had broken and would no longer stay shut. Ordered the part from this site with ease. Very easy to replace the broken door catch on my Amana dryer. Tool needed was a flat head screwdriver to loosen the cover, remove broken piece and easily replace with new part. Followed the video and it was back to normal operation within minutes.

I easily popped the new handle on in 3 seconds

Replaced with new handle in 10 seconds

removed old gasket took door off 4 screws. cleaned seal area applied glue put on gasket easy

Dryer ran with no heat. Replaced the Thermal Fuse and when that didn't fix the problem discovered the element was burned. Easy fix except the F-disconnect fitting broke when I tried to remove it and male fitting on the heating element is 0.375 and all I could find were 0.250 F-disconnect fittings. I finally found a supplier who had a 0.375 fitting and the repair took 10 minutes after that. The online videos at PartSelect are excellent.

Two Phillips screws, and 2 5/16 bolts and the dryer is open for this repair. Remove the drum and note the placement of the drive belt. Then using a pipe wrench grab the rear plastic fan housing, at the rear of the motor shaft, and turn the front of the motor shaft CLOCKWISE. If the Fan is ceased (as it was in my case) you will need to use locking vice grips (at least 3 or 4 between the fan blades to stop the fan blades from turning on the rear shaft.) while your turning the front of the motor's shaft. If done properly, you should have about 25-30 turns before the motor is free for replacement.
Once this is accomplished, mounting the new motor back into the dryer is a simple matter of reversing your steps. But keep note of the belt placement and the motor wiring placement before starting.

I did my repair alone by myself after viewing a short video online at partselect.com The man in the video showed every step slowly and professionally. I took some extra time to clean the dust off behind the back of Dryer while I had it open for fixing.....thanks for your help and it saved me over $190 plus which I was quoted by technician for estimate and parts. I paid $43.00 for my parts...both High limit and Cycling thermostats were replaced. My wife told me good job honey ! You can do it too.

removed back of dryer. Pull electical connections, removed heating element. Inserted replacement element, attached electrical connections and attached dryer back. Done -easily done.

Take the door off of the dryer. Lay it on a towel. Remove old gasket. Clean the channel the door gasket fits into with glue remover. Squeeze high temperature glue into the channel, let the glue set up. Put the new gasket into the channel, tape it down in a few places. Let it sit 24 hours for the glue to set up. Put the door back on. You can put the door on immediately as long as you don't use the dryer for 24 hours. Easy.

I followed the video. So easy..

I followed the instructions on the video and it was simple. The hardest part was vacuuming out 32 years of lint from around the motor and igniter. I was lucky there was never a fire in the dryer.

I pried open the top of the dryer, removed the 2 scrws holding the front cover of the dryer, un hooked the dryer drum buide belt, removed the dryer drum - all this just to get to the drum support roller. The bottom roller - the rubber on the wheel had been "chewed of". I can only guess because too much weight was placed in the dryer with wet clothes.
I removed the triangle shaped retaining clip, using the mini flat head screw-driver, slid the damaged roller off, replaced the new roller, and installed the new retaining clip. To install the new clip, I used a 1/2inch nut driver. I did the same to replace the upper drum support roller. The actual repair took less than 5 minutes, However, the prep time in dismanteling the dryer in order to get to the drumm rollers and puting the dryer back to gether consumed the bulk of my time.

When i finally got sick and tired of hearing it when she used the dryer. I popped the top flipped it up unscrewed the 2 screws holding the front panel of the body on, picked up on it and pulled it off the drum. I then reached back to the rear right corner and stretched the tentioner and pulled the belt off the motor pulley.Then I picked up the belt and the drum and pulled it out of the dryer body. After seeing the drum support roller that is mounted on the base, and back of the left side I decided to go online and find this sight that had the drum support rollers as a set with the keepers and the push nut for the brace as a set for a really fair price. If your unit has a warranty "do not" take anything apart and do not order any pats until you check with your dealer. You do not want to void your warranty. I then pulled off the push nut and then i took the screw that held on the brace in front of the worn out drum roller, then pryed off the keeper and pull off the drum roller, took off the back keeper;inspect the shaft if it is not damaged ,(this one was not),then you wait until the parts arrive, yes your dryer will set in parts for about a week, but believe me in todays economy its worth "not having to buy a new dryer" at least for this small repair. When the parts arrive everything is pretty much in reverse of how you took it apart dont forget your cell phone is also a camera that can be a "memory enhancer" for when you get this far. Also be nice to your wife your going to need a little help putting it back together. Of course if she wants her dryer back she needs to help anyways. patience is a virtue and if you dont take your time and do this right it will be tested the drum and belt need to be fitted right and held up to get both the belt on the pulley and around the tentioner and get the front panel lined up on the front of the drum good luck and pass your knowledge on its getting to be a lost art.

unplugged the electrical cord, took the back off the drier, unplugged wires from the bad heat unit. took couple of screws out that hed it in place, removed it , installed the new one plugged wires back , put the back on , plugged in electric cord. turned it on and that was all , works great. the part you guys sent was identical to the original . thanks. Ken

Simply checked the thermostats for conductivity and found that they were working properly. Removed the heating element to check for conductivity and discovered a broken coil. If I had the part ready to go the whole process from taking off the first screw to replacing the element to screwing on the last screw would have taken less than 15 minutes. Very simple repair that I almost paid a service technician an additional amount for something that a novice DYI'er could do.