CDG2000FW1 Crosley Dryer - Instructions

had to remove the belt and drum and then remove the motor and replace it...put the belt on and then the hard part was to get the drum in place without the belt coming off. New Motor works quieter than the old one did, so I assume the dryer came with a defective motor to begin with and then the shaft finally broke. It runs very quiet now, but never did before. Even a service man came when it was new but said that was normal. Now we know it was not....there was a problem from the start.

0) Turned off breaker at panel and disconnected power cord from 240v wall outlet
1) Removed screws that hold electrical cover plate on back of dryer.
2) Lifted the top of dryer using putty knife on 2 top edges of lid. This lifts up like a cars hood.
3) Removed the screws that attach the power cord to the terminal block and disconnected power cord
4) Removed screws that attach terminal block to dryer
5) Removed melted terminals by prying out of terminal block. Note metal lip on terminal has to be lifted in order to slide connector out. Also unscrewed ground wire from terminal block to dryer.
6) Drew diagram of what color wires go to what terminals
7) Cut terminals off of wires and connected new terminals. Crimped closed and used butane solder torch to solder connection between terminal and wire
8) Reconnected terminals to terminal block by sliding in. **Note, had to file down the edges of the terminals using moto-tool to make it fit as they are connected together using break-away tabs that leave a large piece of metal connected not allowing to fit in terminal block
9) Reconnected terminal block to dryer and reconnected ground wire.
10) Reconnected power cord to terminal block with screws
11) Replaced cover over wiring terminal block
12) Reconnected power cored to 240ac wall outlet
13) Turned breaker back on

First I removed the top of dryer by prying upwards with a screw driver to pop the clips that hold it in place,the second thing I done was to remove to screws that held the front of dryer in place,these screws are located in side the cover half way down.once tha twas completed I remove the front and took it out side where I used a wire brush to remove the old felt at least what was left.onced cleaned I applied the new felt using the supplied high temp glue and then used clothes pins to clamp the felt in place and left sit over night .next morning I installed with ease and all was fixed. NO MORE NOISE:)

White Westinghouse WDG547PB Dryer. Removed access panel (lower left front of dryer) by removing phillips head screw below access panel. Removed two phillips head screws holding bracket that holds coil in place. Removed coil, disconnected electrical connector. Connected electrical connector to new coil and set in place. Repeat for second coil. Reinstall bracket and access panel. Job complete. Dryer back in service with no problems.

got new door handle, inserted and clipped into place, no tools needed, time to repair 5 secs, 1 sec to insert handle, 4 secs to open and shut door numerous times to make sure it was in right. Washer and dryer are over 10 years old, but I like them because you can repair them if something breaks, with the newer models don't know if you can do this.

Internet Search suggested that I check the Igniter, Sensor, thermal cutoff and Ignition Coils. down in the bottom of the Gas Dryer. With top cover off and front panel on, I put a mirror down in the bottom of the Dryer. I watched to see if the Igniter and the Sensor would turn on the Gas Valve. In the reflection of the Mirror, I could see a glow, but heard NO clicks. Repeated several times. Same Result. I suspected the Ignition Coils were faulty.

You suggested replacing BOTH. Parts arrived in 2 days. :-) Easy disassemble and reassemble with screwdriver. (Front Panel must be removed). While I was at it, I replaced the Drive Belt, too. It was 6 years old.
Everything worked fine.
After 6 years in a Garage, the Dryer was filled with Dust. Use the opportunity to Vacuum out the dust.

I went to the website. There were visual aids to help describe the part. I picked it based on the pictures and the description. Ordering was easy and the part arrived in the time promised. I popped it on and it worked perfectly. I saved about $85 because I didn't need a repairman.

Great job!

Had to pretty much disassemble the entire dryer. The schematics on the web site made it a snap to do. One word of advice. I you have to replace the rear drum assembly, the drum has to come out the front of the dryer. Part select made this a very positive experience.

1. Removed face of dryer (drum 'holder')
2. Disconnected door switch wires
3. Tore off existing felt

NOTE: The length of the felt that I recieved from PartSelect was incorrect (too short). Since the existing felt was worn and torn at the top, I replaced only a length that matched the length of the new felt.

4. Used a razor blade-type gasket remover/scraper to remove the exisitng glue
5. Applied new glue (which comes with the felt) onto the felt and let it set up

NOTE: In hindsite, I would apply the glue to the drum holder instead, as the glue otherwise soaks into the felt. If applied to the drum holder instead, the glue will spread out and provide more surface area for adherence.

6. Installed the new felt, starting at one end and working my way around to the other end, being careful not to stretch it
7. Trimmed the remainder of the existing felt (see first NOTE)
8. Scraped the drum holder below the pulled away ends of the exisitng felt
9. Applied glue to the existing felt, including the trrimmed ends so that the ends do not pull away from the ends of the new felt
10. Re-attached the existing felt
11. Let the glue set-up overnight
12. Reinstalled the face of the dryer, turning the drum so that the felt will not get pushed away
13. Reconnected the door switch wires
14. Turned dryer on, with lid still raised, to check for any drifting of the felt
15. Once assured that the felt would stay in place, put the dryer in service

NOTE: I replaced the felt becasue of the gap that opened due to compression of the felt. The gap, as well as a torn piece of the felt that entered the interior of the drum, was catching clothes and tearing them as they were rotated between the drum and the drum holder. The new felt eliminated this problem.

Make sure you order a new belt and a new drum glide with the rear drum bearing assembly. If your bearing is worn out, so are the belt and drum glide!

1) Use a flat screw driver or putty knife to release the blind clips that hold the front side of the top of the dryer cabinet down
2) Swing dryer top up and remove two screws that hold the face of the cabinet.
3) Unplug the wiring harness and remove the cabinet face.
4) Remove the 3 screws that hold the drum to the bearing assembly (accessed from inside the drum. This makes it easier to remove the drum as the bearing assembly can be difficult to remove before you see how it snaps together
5) Reach under the drum and take the belt off the motor pulley, then remove the drum
6) Remove the old bearing assembly from the socket (slide up then out)
7) Remove the two screws that hold the bearing socket to the dryer
8) Fasten the new socket to the dryer (you'll need help doing this unless you have REALLY long arms because you have to reach inside the driver and the back of the dryer at the same time)
9) Grease the socket with the supplied high temp grease
10) Bolt the new bearing assembly to the drum and put the new belt around the drum
11) Put the drum back in and snap the bearing socket in and down
12) Guide the new belt around the motor pulley & tensioner
13) Glue the new drum glide / felt piece to the front cabinet
14) Put the cabinet back together

The blower wheel was a bit difficult, but manigable to do yourself.

The repair actually was quite easy but diagnosing the problem was another story. I found out that the dryer would not buzz and vibrate , if I just ran the fluff cycle but no heat. As soon as heat applied, the slight buzzing and slight vibrating would occur after a few minutes. I knew it wasn't the drum bearing, the drum rollers, the rubbing collar on front of drum, idle arm, belt, etc - I had replaced all of them less than a year ago. Anything I found on the internet dealing with the motor was always geared around not running or slow starting or shutting down, loud buzzing, needing a push start to start, etc but that was not the case. So I figured it was the blower housing and ordered that part. However, once I had the machine apart the blower housing seemed to be just fine - nothing obvious, everything tight. The one issue I had was removing the plastic nut with the metal insert on the blower unit that attaches it to the motor shaft which just wouldn't bulge. So I said to myself, the h*ll with it, lets get a new motor, too and remove both parts together which btw, was very easy. So that is exactly what I did. Now with new motor in hand and new blower housing in hand, I easily removed the old motor still attached to the old blower housing together and replaced both which was very easy. Hooked everything back up and no more soft buzzing or slight vibration. Now back to the problem or my guess at this point. I noticed that the rubber mounting bushing in the back of the motor which is used to attached it to the dryer bracket was funking looking - kinda soft and a bit perished. So I am surmising that once heat was introduced, it was enough to soften that bushing enough to cause the slight buzzing and slight vibration but without the heat to soften the bushing a bit, it was quiet and steady. Just a guess but for anyone that has this issue with just heat but no issue with fluff (no heat) check out the condition of that rubber mounting bushing on the rear of the motor. No where on the internet was there any info concerning the symptoms I had and I was flying by the seat of my pants. So am taking the time to get this on record in case someone else has these symptoms and finds it.

Unpluged the dryer, took out the light assembly, unpluged the wires to the unit, replaced the old unit with new unit from Partselect.
Plugged dryer in, problem fixed.
Taa Daa

Thanks, PARTSELECT.

That saved me about $50.00 YAHOO!!

The best part of using this site the first time was that they had pictures and measurements of the part....it made me sure I wasnt ordering something that wouldn't work.

Its not a tough repair job, its broken a few times in the 8-9 years I've had it. I just order the part, it arrives promptly, I put in on...job done! I would use this site again anytime I need a part to something and have recommended it many times to friends and family.

To summarize.....it's just great when a process works so well and is so easy.

Unplug the unit. The top of the dryer is held down by 2 simple friction pins. By lifting the dryer top above it's front door panel the top will swing up. Prop the top up so you can reach down the front panel. There are 2 Phillips screws about 6 inches down on the dryers front panel. Remove the 2 screws, tip the front panel toward you it will slip off the dryer drum. Remove the 2 push on wires attached to the door switch. Gently lift the front panel off the 2 hinge points at the bottom and set it aside. The parts that your going to replace are the 2 solenoids on the burner assembly. The burner assembly is located on the lower left side of the dryer. Remove the 2 Philips screws that "clamp" the solenoids in place. Pull the 3 & 2 wire friction connectors off the solenoids. Lift the clamp off the top of the solenoids. Pick the 2 solenoids up off the valve assemble. Put the 2 new solenoids on the valve assembly push the wires back on, put the clamp back on and resemble the dryer. *Note: just to make a quick check on the continuity of the solenoids. I suspended the dryer drum so it could rotate without damaging it, put my clamp on amp probe on the 120v line to the solenoids the 3 wire one was good the 2 wire one was open.