CDG20R7H Crosley Dryer - Instructions

First i unplugged the dryer from the outlet. Then I used a flat head screwdriver to lift open the top cover of the dryer. I removed the two wires connected to the thermal fuse and removed the two screws that attached the fuse to the holder. I placed the new fuse on the holder using the two screws. I plugged the two wires back up to the fuse and closed the lid. Be sure to fixed what caused the problem before attempting to use the dryer. I my case there was a massive amount of lint beneath the lint tray which had the vent blocked.

Unplug unit turn off gas, remove only bottom front panel first tried radient flame sensor was not the problem it was the coils which were infront easy to acess with small screw driver remove two prong coil and replaced then the three pronged coil being sure to line them back before tigtening left off cover and watched for ignition once it turned on and ran replaced cover and done.

I tilted the unit back enough to scew the new legs into the threaded holes.

Checked ignitor it was working ok, disconnected 3 pronged coil and disconnected 2 pronged coil using multi tester checked continuity on both coils both tested 0,with help of operator ordered M Series new style coil kit. When parts arrived installed coils attached wire harnesses installed bracket and 2 screws that secures coils. Started dryer it worked and stayed working who needs the Maytag Repair Man probably saved about 200.00 between service call and markup on coils. Thanks Virtual Repairman

Well, this is quite easy really. I found the problem after plucking and chucking a few parts but it was finally the igniter that was the problem. After taking the front section panel off to access the components, take the time to unscrew the igniter and see if it is cracked. That is what happened to my unit. I replaced to the new M series coils as well but the issue was the igniter. Look very carefully for a crack, the one on my unit was very small. You can ohm it out with a meter and if it reads open it is cracked.

Dryer was getting hot at start of cycle and would drop out flame and then cycle flame every 45 sec to 1 min. Pulled of panel to observe this and thought it was a heat sensor problem. Went online and people were saying a coil could be bad. I took coils out and tested them and they tested good but I bought new ones anyway as I figured they were going out of range as they heated up, This proved correct as dryer works .

Well, had I read more of the reviews on this website, I would have learned that my problem was the valve coils. Instead, I assumed it was the igniter, so I ordered and installed a new igniter to no avail. I was about to just go buy a new dryer at Home Depot and spend $600, but I had to try again so I read more reviews on this website and began measuring resistances across the valve coils and discovered I had a bad one. I ordered both just to be safe, and installed them and quickly enjoyed my first uninterrupted dryer cycle in over a year (for over a year, I had been stopping and restarting my dryer about 10 times for each cycle). So THANKS for this website and to all the home technicians who posted symptoms, resistances, and how-to-do-its to help me get this done. It was an empowering experience to fix this and have bookmarked this website for any future appliance fixes. It's a great website with all its schematics and postings.

Unplugged dryer.
Popped the lid using a butter knife by pushing in the two latches (located about 4 inches in from the side in the seam where the top lid and front panel meet).
Used pliers to remove the electrical leads to the two fuses (two leads each fuse).
Unscrewed the top fuse from the mounting bracket, then removed the heating coil, then unscrewed the lower/bottom fuse from its mounting bracket. Tested each fuse with my trusty (and rarely used) volt/ohm meter -- which verified that I had bad fuses.
Replaced the bottom/lower fuse, re-attached to the mounting bracket, reconnected the electrical leads.
Replaced the heating coil.
Replaced the top fuse in its mounting bracket and reconnected the electrical leads.
Closed the lid. Plugged in the dryer. Works like a charm.
NOTE: I checked more than 50 feet of exhaust duct to make certain there were no clogs (which is what caused the problem). I discovered that my conduit (that tube-like thing that connects the exhaust from the dryer to the exhaust port in the wall or floor) was kinked and created a clog. I trimmed it and now it works and I have improved drying performance.

After reading some tips on the parts select site I isolated the high limit fuse and thermostat as the likely problem. The overheating was caused by a buildup of lint in the exhaust fan area. after clearing the obstruction, and replacing the fuse and switch I tested the dryer which worked perfectly.

I ordered the part. This is now my third order. It appears that every 10-12 months this happens. I opened the top of the dryer by using a flat head screw driver to push in two clips. The clips are along the front edge of the lid about two inches in from each side. Push in with the screw driver while pulling up the lid. Once the lid is open (of course the plug is pulled) I locate the heat coil. Above the heat coil is the the thermostat, I replace that. Or maybe it is the over heat fuse, I forget. I then replace the sensor found along the side of the heat coil. Re-attach wires. Close lid. Plug back in and ready to go.

DISCONNECT THE POWER. (I got shocked a few times during the diagnoses stage). Remove the lint catcher. Pop the top of the dryer up (there are two plastic tabs along the front of the dryer. Remove the two screws for the lint catcher and open the top of the dryer. Loosen the screws between the side and front panels. Lift up on the front of the dryer to free it from the clips down below. Swing the front panel out of the way to avoid disconnecting the door-open-switch. Undo the two screws holding the bracket onto the gas burner regulator. Replace the coils. Reassemble in the reverse order. It was helpful to open the dryer door to help align the drum and front panels.

Went to your website for information on how to open the cabinet and clues of what could be wrong. I used a putty knife to open top. i
removed two screws holding the front panel then lifted the panel up off of two clips holding it in place. Removed door switch from panel and set panel aside. I turned the dryer on and noticed that the igniter never turned on but the drum turned CCW. I then unplugged the electric cord from the wall and turned off the gas at the supply valve behind dryer.
I removed 3 connectors (1 from igniter, 2 from gas valve coils). Mark the gas valve flare nut and tube with a marker so you know how much to tighten it on reassembly.
I used two adjustable wrenches to remove gas line from gas valve.
Then removed one screw holding gas valve assembly in place.
Removed gas valve assembly from dryer. I took a nut driver to remove screw holding the igniter to the assembly. I used a meter to check bad igniter and it was open. I checked new igniter and it read 88 ohms.
Caution: never touch the igniter heating surface with your bear hands because you will shorten its life. Clean dryer lint from front panel and cabinet. Now reverse these steps for reassembly.
Thank you for the video on how to open the cabinet and the ideas for what could be the problem. The dryer was 2004/2005 model so about 14 years old.

1st replaced limit thermostat because it tested bad; this did not resolve the problem. Initial burn was successful. Heating element would heat but burner would not ignite for subsequent burns unless allowed to cool down for 10 minutes or more. Coils tested at correct values, but a u-tube video said that was not always an indication of a flawless coil set. It was either the coils or the burner itself. Burner would not have been a justifiable expense even though it came with new coil set, so tried the coil set, and it resolved the problem.

popped top up with flat screw-took out 4 screws (2 screws-1/4" nut driver - 2 phillips screws on bracket that holds coils in place) unplugged 2 wire lugs (1 three wire & 1 two wire) changed out bad coils screws back in-plugged wires back in -popped top back down .done

went on line to look up the problem troubleshooting a maytag gas dryer. after checking different sites I figured that I needed a coil valve. searched for the part I needed and found the best deal on this site. I ordered the part and and by following the directions. I was able to replace the part on my own.