CDG20P7A Crosley Dryer - Instructions

1.Removed retaining clips,washers,spacer,and cylinder rollers
2.Removed and replaced support assembly
3.Installed spacer
4.Installed cylinder roller assembly
5.Installed washers and retaining clips
This is my second time ordering parts from PartSelect and I am amazed how fast I recieve my orders, which minimizes the downtime of an appliance that's frequently used.

I unplugged the dryer from the outlet and opened the top of the dryer with a puddy knife .I marked both wires "T" for the one on top and "B" for the one on the bottom. I removed the screw that holds the bracket in place that the High Limit Kit fuse is attached to and removed both wires with a pair of pliers. I made sure that the new fuse was turned the same way as the old fuse. There is some writing on one side and it should be pointing to the back of the dryer. I put the fuse in the bracket and placed the bracket back in the slotted holder placed the screw back in the bracket holder tighten it up hooked the wires up as labeled and closed the top. I plugged the dryer up opened the door and the light came on. After I turned it on it worked then it tripped the breaker. I reset the breaker turned it on again and it worked I haven't had a problem since. Make sure that you use the fuse with the pink dot on it for a electric dryer.

I followed the "How to" video on your web site. Most importantly, I cleaned the entire filter area which probably caused the problem as your instructions recommended. I will do that annually going forward. I would recommend your service to anyone.

I suspected the high limit fuse. I unplugged the machine, lifted the top, found the high-limit fuse (about the size of four dimes glued together) just to the right of the heating coil. I pulled the two wires off and taped them together. Plugged the machine back in and it worked perfectly. I made sure the heating coils started to glow red. When the part arrived, I replaced the old unit with the new, plugged the two wires back on, and I was done. Just for additional information, when I touched the heating coil during the repair, it broke. After 16 years, the heating coils get brittle, so I also replaced the heating coil and it's thermostat just above it (about the size of 6 quarters glued together). I hope this gets me another 16 years.

I first unplugged the dryer. I had to move the dryer forward a little. Then I used a screwdriver to pry up the top of the dryer from the front. I positioned the top all the way back until it rested on the front of the cabinet. Make sure it's far enough back so it doesn't accidentally close on you while you are working on it. I located the high limit thermostat right above the heating coils. I unplugged the two wires going to it. I used a nut driver to remove the screw that was holding it to a bracket. I then I removed the two screws that held it to another bracket. I installed the new thermostat to the bracket and then reinstalled it to the bracket above the coils. I plugged the two wires back in and closed the lid. Make sure the dryer vent is still attached if you had to move it. The dryer works fine now and doesn't overheat.

First I removed the screws of the dryer cover. Next removed the screws holding the dryer drum.

Drilled out the two rivets left from the old glide. Inserted the plastic and postitioned the cushion underneath. Inserted the new glide and drilled a hole in the plastic to accomodate the new rivet. Inserted rivet. Pulled the other end so it was tight holding the cushion and did the other end. Done.

Had to cut the glide 1/4 '' of the width to slide it through the existing slots in the panel.

I just removed 1 screw that held the safety thermostat in and replaced it. Then I removed the long screw that holds the heating element and the high limit fuse in place. Replaced the fuse, cleaned out the lint duct area. Closed the dryer lid and pluged it in, it worked fine.

Lifted top from dryer and fuses were in the back of drum just below heating coil. Used nut driver to remove heating coil to gain access to fuses and replaced them. Process was quick and easy. Diagram from this site made locating fuses elementary!

P.S. I have no certified experience in appliance repair.This was my first time ever and dryer works perfect.

i followed part select instructions that probable cause was either thermal fuse or high limit thermostat.put ohm meter across both & saw thermal fuse(has pink dot on it) part 53-1182 was open.ordered thermal fuse replacement kit. part#LA-1053. the problem i had was after reaching down the side of heating housing removing the bracket with the thermal fuse,replacing & reconnecting it i had a hard time reinstalling the bracket,very tight space & i don't have very big hands.finally got the fuse in it's hole in the bracket & slid & jammed the bracket into the side of the mounting housing & it stayed secure.dryer started

I took apart the dryer by unscrewing the top and the front, front comes off by just undoing the two top screws on the inside. I figured it was something to do with the rollers since the noise was ciclycal. The hardest part was to put the drive belt back on. It helps to have a second person for about 5 minutes.

I unplug the electric, close the gas valve, use the putty blade to prize up the top,unplug the electric horness, took the front door off, took the anker plate off the two coils, removed the wire from each coil,be careful not toget the wires mixed up one coil has two proms and the other has three proms after that u put everything back together the way u took it off!!

Just as described in the installation video provided by Partselect. I replaced the Thermal Fuse and the High Limit Thermostat. The most time was spent replacing the fuse due to it's location.

The hardest part was figuring out how to access the dryer mechanism. This Amana dryer has a lower front panel that is removed and not the top. There are few instructions available for this configuration. Then the part locations do not resemble the video instructions for trouble shooting. I discovered the broken part because when fiddling with the wire connections the metal tab disconnected due to fatigue or corrosion. Removing, identifying and replacing the flame sensor was quite simple. The dryer now works as before. The dryer is 23 years old. The most time in this repair was spent figuring out how to disassemble and identify a different configuration than in the videos.

Disassembled the dryer with the help of diagrams provided on the web site. With the aid of an electrical diagram discovered inside the dryer, tested each component with a multimeter until I found the open hi-temp limit switch. Ordered the High Limit Kit because I couldn't find the hi-temp switch separately. After receiving the repair parts I read the enclosed instructions and learned that I needed the additional part enclosed with the hi-temp limit switch after all. Thanks to some forethought by the supplier, I didn't have to wait for the other part to be shipped.

After removing the control panel face plate, the lid, the front panel, and the drum, I had to trouble shoot the wiring to determine the dead spot. I found it to be the thermal fuse for the heating element. I then unplugged the wires to the fuse, removed the fuse from the fuse bracket, and then replaced evrything in reverse order.