CDE22B7V Crosley Dryer - Instructions

Open the top of the dryer, thermostat can be plainly seen. this one was obviously fried, made it easy to determine cause of problem. remove old thermostat, pins pull off posts, using socket take off nuts (hang on to the nuts), put the new on. Fixed.

Very difficult for one person, trying to get the belt engaged into the motor pulley and the idler pulley at the same time. Trying to overcome the tension of the heavy spring on the idler was the main problem, while coping with the small working space with the drum in place. Solved all the problems by removing the drum (for the 3rd time) and making a piece of wood to wedge in against the outside wall of the machine to hold back the spring loaded idler. Then slipped the drum back in place and gently slid the belt around the drum. Then reached in under the drum and slipped the wood piece out while making sure the belt remained on the pulleys. If I had the wood idea at the start, it would have been about a half hour job. Good luck, and don't pinch your fingers.

After reading everyone else's comments I started by pulling out the dryer, unplugging the power and exhaust. Next moved the dryer to an area where I had room to lay it on the back. Then using a flat blade screw driver, I popped the top attached tape to the top so I could lean back the top without having to hold it. Removed the two screws from the front panel and removed the door safety shut off before removed the front panel. Then I layed the dryer on its back. Then reached under the drum, pushed the belt tensioner toward the motor puller to release the tension on the belt. Then slid the belt to the base. Pulled the drum up and out of the cabinet. Next I cleaned all the lint and crud out of the dryer components. To remove the clips that hold the rollers in place, I use 2 small flat blade screw drivers. These are inserted at the back side of the horse show shaped clip between the shaft and the clip. When the two screw drivers are rotated like turning a screw they slide the clip out. Next I used a socket wrench with a #8 metric socket(I didn't have the sae size) and removed the screws holding the drum roller brackets. I simply reversed the procedure to install the new rollers. Since the dryer was on its back, when I put the drum back in, its own weight slipped it in place. Then pulled the belt around the drum and between the motor pulley and the belt tensioner. Holding the belt with one hand, I used the other hand to pushed the belt tensioner in and positioned the belt. Then I stood the unit back upright and put the front cover on, replaced the door safety switch, removing the tape holding the lid and then cloed the lid. Of course I put the dryer back in place, leveled it, and it now runs like brand new. My thanks to every one else who gave me hints that saved be about $450!

Replaced the thermal shut off and the thermistor located on the heating element bracket.
Easy to diagnose and to replace- not totally accessable but not that bad either. Cleaned out lint obstruction causing the problem.

first I went online and took a look at the schematic and realized that two items can shut the complete unit down and would be easy to check. First I checked the door switch with a multimeter then the high limit non-resettable thermostat. The contacts on the thermostat were open which told me it was bad. Went online to www.partselect.com and found the part really easily. came in when they said it would and it was a perfect match to the original (part numbers on the side and eveything). Make sure you correct the problem that caused the unit to overheat in the first place. IN my case the dryer air passages were full of lint. After a good cleaning put it all back together and it worked better than it has in years.

Easy repair and I am not the handyman type. Unplug the unit. Lift the top. Remove 2 wires from temperature sensor and remove single screw to lift out the plate the sensor is mounted to(Easier to change the sensor out this way). Remove 2 wires from heating element and then remove single screw. Lift out heating element and replace with new one. Screw back in and reattach 2 wires. Remove 2 screws on the plate for the temeperature sensor and replace with the new sensor. Once 2 screws are back in the plate holding the sensor, screw back in with single screw and attach 2 wires. I called a tech and they wanted $125 just to look at the unit. When I read other reviews of how easy this repair was, I thought it was worth a try. Definitely saved us a bunch of money and time.

Received the replacement filter which was an exact duplicate of the 22 year old filter. Took the old one out; slid the new one in and got ready for another 22 years of use. At 86 years of age I probably won't be around to see the new filter wear out. The dryer has already outlasted the place where I purchased it - Montgomery Wards! They just don't make stuff to last like this anymore.

Looked up dryer by serial number on the internet. Watched the video on the website very easy installation. Ordered the part it came in within 2 days. Opened the top of the dryer with a 10 in one tool (like a putty knife). Took out the out defective parts by unscrewing the thermostat took wires off the old part and put them on the new part not to confuse wires. Did the same with the heater element installed the new parts. Very simple. If I had to call a repair person it would have cost 3 times as much as the part alone.

I unplugged the dryer from the outlet and opened the top of the dryer with a puddy knife .I marked both wires "T" for the one on top and "B" for the one on the bottom. I removed the screw that holds the bracket in place that the High Limit Kit fuse is attached to and removed both wires with a pair of pliers. I made sure that the new fuse was turned the same way as the old fuse. There is some writing on one side and it should be pointing to the back of the dryer. I put the fuse in the bracket and placed the bracket back in the slotted holder placed the screw back in the bracket holder tighten it up hooked the wires up as labeled and closed the top. I plugged the dryer up opened the door and the light came on. After I turned it on it worked then it tripped the breaker. I reset the breaker turned it on again and it worked I haven't had a problem since. Make sure that you use the fuse with the pink dot on it for a electric dryer.

the video was very well done and able to understand. disconnect power ,remove lint trap,remove 2 phillps head screws, push putty knife in front seam line about 1'' in from corners to release top assembly ,lift up and support, disconnect wire connector ,remove 1 screw in each front corner lift front panel off while holding drum, remove broken belt,install new belt with grooves against drum ,feed around tensioner pulley and onto motor shaft pulley ,spin drum by hand to make sure belt tracking etc. reassembly in reverse.

I suspected the high limit fuse. I unplugged the machine, lifted the top, found the high-limit fuse (about the size of four dimes glued together) just to the right of the heating coil. I pulled the two wires off and taped them together. Plugged the machine back in and it worked perfectly. I made sure the heating coils started to glow red. When the part arrived, I replaced the old unit with the new, plugged the two wires back on, and I was done. Just for additional information, when I touched the heating coil during the repair, it broke. After 16 years, the heating coils get brittle, so I also replaced the heating coil and it's thermostat just above it (about the size of 6 quarters glued together). I hope this gets me another 16 years.

I first unplugged the dryer. I had to move the dryer forward a little. Then I used a screwdriver to pry up the top of the dryer from the front. I positioned the top all the way back until it rested on the front of the cabinet. Make sure it's far enough back so it doesn't accidentally close on you while you are working on it. I located the high limit thermostat right above the heating coils. I unplugged the two wires going to it. I used a nut driver to remove the screw that was holding it to a bracket. I then I removed the two screws that held it to another bracket. I installed the new thermostat to the bracket and then reinstalled it to the bracket above the coils. I plugged the two wires back in and closed the lid. Make sure the dryer vent is still attached if you had to move it. The dryer works fine now and doesn't overheat.

I just followed your video how to replace a broken belt , after viewing replacing belt went easy

First I removed the screws of the dryer cover. Next removed the screws holding the dryer drum.

Drilled out the two rivets left from the old glide. Inserted the plastic and postitioned the cushion underneath. Inserted the new glide and drilled a hole in the plastic to accomodate the new rivet. Inserted rivet. Pulled the other end so it was tight holding the cushion and did the other end. Done.

Had to cut the glide 1/4 '' of the width to slide it through the existing slots in the panel.

Had a problem holding drum in place and putting front back on. Got it together and drum wouldn't turn. Had to tear it a part again and belt had turned.