CDE9505AZW Crosley Dryer - Instructions

Unable to find a repair manual or accurate diagram, I forged ahead and removed the top and front panels of the dryer. It took two tries to figure out how to thread the belt (nine of my ten thumbs kept getting in the way!), but after a coffee break, the job came together, and I've taken the clothesline down!

First I was told by the maytag repair man that the motor was shot and it would be 467 dollars to repair. Since I didn't have that kind of money I decided to take it apart to see if I could replace the motor myself. Once I had it apart I saw the part that held the motor in place was broken off and the motor was out of place causing it too shut itself off. Once I figured it all out it took about 2 minutes to replace the less than 6 dollar part! Thanks partSelect!!!

I used your great video for pointers as to what to do. I took off the front, raised the top, vacuumed the whole thing up, that took quite a while. Took out the drum. Did more cleaning. Then took off the old retaining rings with retaining ring pliers, took off the old drum rollers and support. Replaced with new roller supports, washer, roller, washer and retaining rings. Then I replaced the belt. Tested it and turned the wrong way and it came off. Replaced and tested it again and I don't know why but it came off. Replaced the belt again, tested fine. Then I replaced the felt pads and glides, they were worn. I ended up asking my husband to help hold the drum so I could get the front back on. Replaced front and door. Tried the dryer. Works great AND very, very little noise. Note: when taking the wiring off the light and the door switch, I took photo's of those places with my cell phone and had them to look at to make sure the wiring was correct.

Terminal Block was cracked and dryer was not receiving enough voltage, causing the heating element not to heat. Here were the steps I took to fix the problem:
1. Turn off breaker to dryer from 240v outlet
2. Unplug dryer from 240v wall outlet.
3. On outside, rear of dryer, remove cover plate and the clamp that the power cord goes through with nut driver or phillips screwdriver and take picture or write down how the power cord wires go to the terminal block.
4. Use nut driver or phillips screwdriver to remove the power cord wires from terminal block and ground wire from dryer body.
5. On top front of dryer, use large slotted screwdriver or some other tool to push in on the two clips in order to lift the cover up on dryer.
6. Take picture or write down how wires are attached to terminal block.
7. Remove wires from terminal block with nut driver or phillips screwdriver.
8. Use nut driver to remove terminal block from washer and install the new terminal block.
9. Reinstall wires to new terminal block.
10. Close dryer cover.
11. Reinstall clamp onto power cord wires and reinstall wires to new terminal block and ground wire to washer body then put cover plate back on.
12. Plug in dryer then turn on breaker.
13. Start dryer to see if it heats now.

removed the front panel and the drum panel cover.replaced the guides and the felt pads and re-assembled.

Once I was able to take apart the door assembly, I was able to determine that I needed the lint duct assembly. The parts website was very helpful with diagrams and explanations so that I could order the part with confidence. Since laundry is so important in our house I paid for expedited shipping. The part arrived in Florida less than 24 hours after it was ordered and soon after it was installed and the dryer was working properly.

Jumped out both limits and flame would still go out, grab the 2 plug gas valve solenoid and it would click and the flame glow coil would start back up. I ordered both solenoid valves and the flame would stay on longer but not like it used to. On time drying the flame should stay on all the way thru the cycle unless it got to hot and the cycling stat would take over. Ordered a cycling stat and now it heats like it used to. The clothes are hot now when they come out. If you jump out the limits and still the flame doesn't stay on like it used to, replace the gas valve solenoids and the cycling stat.

This repair was ridiculously easy. The timer knob broke during a move I recently made. I googled the item and found your site. I was impressed with how easy it was to navigate the site. I found the part I needed, ordered it and received it within a week. All that was needed was to push the knob onto the shaft and my repair was completed. Thank you PartSelect, for making my experience so easy.

Removed the lower front cover. Unplugged two wires and removed two screws in element, slid element out, removed two contacts and attached them to th new element, slid element back in place, inserted two screws re-attached two wires.
Very easy!

I took out 6 screws and replaced the heating element, changed wires and reinstalled

I used a large flat head screwdriver to lift top up, then located 2 screws in the top right and left hand side to remove front. Remove the three Phillip Head Screws that holds the assy in place slide out. Mine had 2 metal pieces with wires. I simply unplugged and took metal pieces and installed in the new assy. Remove excess lint put front back on lowered lid and done! 15-20 minutes

Per instructions I printed off online: took off door, then the front panel. Pulled out the old switch/button, connected the new switch/button, made sure the new button was working; put the panel back on then the door and DONE!

took one out - put new one in

I just took the bottom front panel off and the parts I needed to rplace where in the back and very easy to get to . I decided to replace all 3 while I was in there. The parts were not to high, so that is why I did that.

Disconnect power and pulled the lower front panel off unit (2 screws).
I used a ohm meter and found heater coil open. Ordered correct part online (easy to find it on the web site).
Three days later, new part in hand I unplugged the failed unit's wiring and removed the heating unit (2 screws). Installed the new part, connected wires and reinstalled the four screws.
Engaged power and turned the dryer on. Vent pie had heat, so placed wet clothes in unit and ran a dryer cycle. Works like new. Cost was about $65.00 versus the $500.00 for a new dryer.