CE8427WPCE8427W Amana Dryer - Instructions

Followed the recommended repair under noisy machine, replacing the 3 recommended parts. The 10 minute video was extremely helpful. Important note: there are two(2) drum support rollers. Also, you definitely need very small C ring pliers and don't forget to label all wires before disconnecting.

I disconnected power and vent hose then tipped dryer on its back. I took off lower panel and door ,disconnecting wires to door and light and hanging them over the side,i then removed the front plate and felt seal the plastic fan shroud and lint trap come out as one piece along with the front plate.when i could look down on the drum,standing on the left side ,i disconnected the screw connecting the top plate to the left side plate allowing the top to gain a little play,this is the amount needed for the drum to be removed,pull belt tensioner slightly as to release tension remove the belt from motor shaft.At this point remove drum and set aside,the lower felt ring and support rollers will be exposed as well as tension spring and tension roller,i used a mirror and guided the snap ring pliers into place on the tension roller,At this point pull on rear felt ring it may come loose easy ,if not work some adhesive remover into the cracks where the glue is and keep agitating it ,eventually the glue will begin to release and more and more of the remover can get in washing the felt ring off,clean real good after using remover soap and water and allow to dry ,apply a thin ring of high heat adhesive smooth out to spread even all around when it becomes tacky begin applying new felt ring,while this adhesive cures perform the same procedure on the front panel and its felt ring while these rings are drying into place undo snap rings and pull support rollers out and replace in like order replacing thrust washers and snap rings if you damage them ,the roller on the tensioner is more tricky but if you use a mirror and a light it is easy to sneak in there lastly when preparing to reassemble and drum and belt are in place just before you replace the front panel it is prudent to replace the neoprene slides,reassemble front plate and ensure that the felt ring lines up and goes in evenly all the way around re-attach top left corner ,reinstall door and wires as well as bottom plate this will conclude the procedure i learned all of this the hard way i should have just replaced all the parts at once i was in that machine 6 different times Daniel 2017

I just followed the video instructions and really they were not as good as some of the customer descriptions which were far more detailed. It was like an experienced repairman telling another experienced repairman how he has been doing this repair for 20 years. The customers get into the kind of detail that is very helpful. More important parts select never tells you to read the blogs first before ordering your parts. $100 later I bought a new GE dryer which I would have done 10 days ago had I known Maytag has a repetitive problem with the high limit thermal fuse which no one has a cure for. So I did a whole bunch of repairs replacing parts on a dryer which needed to be replaced.

I totally disassembled the Dryer, and replaced the Guide Rollers, Blower Wheel, Idler Pulley Shaft, Idler Pulley, and Belt.

The Dryer is about 25-30 years old. I replaced the motor due to overheating, while I had the dryer disassembled I decided to change out the idler pully wheel and the drum support rollers. This was my first time changing out the motor. Surprisingly, the blowerfan blade came off the shaft of the motor very easy. I was concerned about the age of the dryer and was anticiapating this could be a problem fortunately, it came off very easy. Removing the old motor was easy. The only issue I had was seating the new motor in the correct position. I felt that the motor was not in the correct posiotion however, I was not sure being that this was my first install.
After trying several times, rotaing the motor back and forth (side to side) within the motor holding end brackets the motor fell into place and I was able to put on the end motor clamps on correctly. The drying is now working.

I guessed that a new belt may fix the problem. The repair was nearly as easy as the video suggested. I believe the dryer had been repaired before since there was a circular panel on the side which had been removed. I could reach in through the side to slip the new belt onto the pulley. The new belt now enables the drum to turn even for heavy loads.

Watched the videos first. Unplugged the dryer plug. lifted the top of the dryer and braced it. removed the front cover and bulkhead and disconnected the wires. Removed the drum and belt. removed the 2 screws to the motor plate to replace the idler pulley. installed the belt around the drum and inserted the drum. routed the belt around the idler pulley and checked for alignment and twists. reinstalled the bulkhead and the front cover. plugged the dryer cord back in and listened to a quiet dryer. The dryer also dried the clothes in one setting. Yahoo and saved a bunch of money fixing it myself. I recommend to anyone to watch the videos on site to diagnose dryer noises. You'll be amazed and save money doing it yourself.

This dryer is an older one. I have kept it running throughout the years by just replacing parts a needed. This was a kind of rebuild. The dryer was making that squeaking noise when running so I knew the "glides" were worn and the belt, rollers and idler pulley had never been replaced. I ordered the parts from this website and I must say it took a while for them to ship, of course I guess since it was during the holidays that's to be expected. Once I received the parts I took the dryer apart. This model has a lower panel that comes off first then there are two 5/16" sheet metal screws that hold the door panel in place and then two more to hold the top down. Then I removed the front bulkhead which holds the drum glides. I replaced the glides then removed the drum from the dryer. To removed the motor there are two 5/16" screws to removed then pull the motor from the bottom. I then replaced the idler pulley, the two drum rollers on the rear of the dryer and the belt on the drum. Reassembly went fairly easy. I found the door switch was bad during reassembly because the dryer would not shut off once the door was opened. So picked up a new door switch from a local supplier, replaced it and all is good now. There really isn't that much to a dryer. A motor, heating unit (in the rear), control unit/timer on top, and then the rollers, idler pulley, and drum belt. The video instructions on this website were quite helpful. Hopefully it will last another year.

. I had replaced the idler pulley a number of years ago so I assumed that the noise was now due to either the sliders at the front of the drum or bad rollers at the back.. I removed power by turning off the breaker that serviced the dryer. After removing the lower front panel via the two sheet metal screws at the bottom I then removed the door panel. The safety switch behind the door had to be removed by depressing the sides of the switch after disconnecting the two push on connectors. One will discover that reconnecting the smaller of the two contacts to the unused contact on the switch will allow one to run the dryer with the door off or open. This can be useful to test operation after the repair is complete before reassembling the door and lower panels. I then removed the large panel that secures the front of the drum. The drum is then removed after releasing tension on the drive belt. All rotating parts and sliders could then be checked. Upon disassembly I found that the rollers and sliders appeared ok and decided to replace the idler pulley as a last attempt to fix the problem. This is best done by removing the tension arm and tensioning spring. the pulley is then more easily removed from the arm using snap ring pliers. After replacing the pulley and thrust washer with new parts I reassembled everything. I found it helpful to pretension the arm using a zip tie wrap in that the belt can be more easily reinstalled on the drum and pulley. When the drum and belt is properly in place and belt threaded, one can reach in with a pair of cutters and snip the tie wrap to re tension the system. The dryer has been running normally again for a week after affecting this repair.

very well had to take blower assy apart with no problem ownly problem I had was getting the belt lined back up but got it and it works great

The repair went very well. The parts were a perfect fit and arrived earlier than expected.It took a little longer than it should have to do the repair because of my recent surgery I had my 11 year old grandson operating the nut driver taking the dryer apart install the parts then reassemble under my watch full eye. You could say it went so easy a fifth grader could do it.

I began by removing the two screws at the lower part of the front panel. After removing the panel I was able to access and remove the broken switch which was located on the front panel. I popped out the old switch and replaced it with the new one, reattached the wires and put the front panel on and the jod was done.

Follow the instructions on this webside

There was initial rumbling and thumping then the drum failed to rotate under power. I could however rotate the drum by hand. This site suggested the rollers or belt as well as the idler assembly. I decided to renew all the wearable parts and ordered the belt, rollers, glides and idler assembly. It was in fact the idler. The idler wheel had disintegrated and collapsed in the center. It must have run (rumbling) until it finally seized and stopped. Replaced all the parts and the dryer is even better now than new. It was a good opportunity to vacuum out all the lint inside the cavity (that took most of the time and also found $0.36 in loose change). Also found it easier to remove the electrical connections with pliers rather than pull on the wires and risk detaching the wire from the clip.

remove front part of the dryer and rise up the top to remove drum to replace the belt. than remove two screws for the heating element piece of cake repair.