NED4600YQ0 Amana Dryer - Instructions

My dryer started staying on when I opened the door to check the clothes, which I adapted to. Over the next few weeks, the dryer would not start at all. The website was very helpful in determining the possible parts needed to make the repair. The video shown was spot on and very helpful with its instructions on access to the part and replacing the part. The most time it took for me was cleaning behind the dryer and trying to remove the existing switch. I kept trying to squeeze the tabs on each side to get it past the tab and that wasnt working for me. Finally I took a small flat screwdriver and gently lifted the plastic on the switch up over the tab and that allowed me to pull and remove the switch easily. The whole time from start to finish for me was 45 minutes. Not bad for a 50 year old lady :) I have to say that this whole process has giving me alot of confidence in making basic appiance repairs. I have my partsselect.com magnet proudly displayed on my dryer and will not hesitate to use them again in the future.

The dryer opens up pretty easily; there are two screws holding the lint filter housing to the top panel that must be removed before the top will come up. The top panel pops open by prying it up with a screw driver. Once it's off there are two screws inside near the top that hold the upper front panel to the sides. There are also two screws that need to be loosened, but not removed, at the very bottom of the upper front panel, accessed by removing the lower front panel which is also popped out by prying (the upper part of the lower panel is pulled straight out, and is held to the bottom of the unit by hinge-like clips). Once the upper front panel is wriggled back the drum will slump off but stay pretty much in place while you set the panel aside (it has an electrical lead that goes to the door-closed sensor, but if you pop its clips loose in a couple spots you'll have enough slack to set it to the side). The drum pulls off easily. You might want to take a photo of the belt/pulley arrangement underneath it before removing everything, as it is not intuitively obvious how the belt runs thru the pulleys. Once the drum is gone vacuum up all that accumulated lint, then pop off the metal clips that hold the motor on. I was surprised at how little holds that motor on; apparently it's enough. Here is where I ran into my one snag: I couldn't unscrew the blower wheel from the motor shaft, and you have to get that fan off to get the motor out. You're supposed to clamp a wrench on the plastic fan just inside the dryer housing, and unscrew it by turning the shaft from the other side. No go. I eventually drilled a sequence of holes into the plastic around the metal shaft (easy) and could pull the motor out, but of course now I needed a $20 fan replacement. The motor and fan showed up in 2-3 days. Unfortunately, the motor came with a pulley that needed a narrower drive belt than my original. I guess I could have cut the original down, but i just went ahead and ordered a new one ($12). Everything went back together surprisingly easily. Getting the new fan on was much easier than getting that old one off.

Unplugged Dryer. Removed back panel of the dryer. Disconnected and removed the Thermal Cut Off switch and replaced. Disconnected and removed the High Limit Thermostat and replaced. Reinstalled rear panel of the dryer. Plugged in dryer. Operated dryer and checked for heat. Operation was proper and dryer works great.

Took the back off, swapped out the three sensors. Just like the videos showed. Easy as pie!!! Took more time to vacuum the dryer out. , Excellent delivery time and customer service!

take two phillips srews out of lint catch frame. next take a screw driver pry up front top part on dryer.lean back top out of way.take two screws out of top of dryer door. disconnect electrical connection dryer door frame.and pull frame upward and off. you will see roller bracket with end made to put in slott. put it in first slott under belt motor.take belt and pull it through under roller and hook it with screwdriver to motor pulley.by putting the tip of screwdriver on motor pulley with belt on screwdriver and lift up until belt slides on to pulley. make sure you put belt around barrel. before putting belt through roller bracket and on to motor pulley.and use something to put under barrel so it will not get in the way and fall off.

i popped the top off. removed the 2 hex screws in the front upper inner corners. lifted the front panel up about an inch n removed it. pulled the drum out. removed the old broken belt. put the tention roller back into the slots at the bottom panel n base of the motor. mounted the new belt around the motor n thru the tentioner as i placed the drum in position n mounted the belt around the drum. holding the drum in place i replaced the front panel. replaced the hex screws n closed the lid. wah-lah. dryer fixed... thank you parts select

removed 2 screws by the lint collector, lifted top and disconnected the door switch, removed old switch and replaced it with the new one, screwed it back in and reconnected it, closed lid and reattached the screws by the lint collector-done!

I used the instruction vedio on this web site. Instruction from this vedio showed; was very helpful and for a first timer took less than twenty minutes.

My dryer was made so the fan was not removable and I had to reach through a narrow opening in behind the fan housing to put the belt on the motor pulley. The problem I encountered was that I could only use one hand to push against the idler pulley spring while at the same time try to catch the belt and slip it under the idler pulley. It repeatedly slipped off and every time it did the spring and idler pulley would come loose, and I would have to realign the the idler pulley shaft and attach the spring. After the fifth time I left the spring off, pushed the idler pulley shaft all the way in and put scratch a mark on the shaft on the inside of the first hole it enters. Next I drilled 1/16" hole in the shaft where I marked it, installed the spring and idler pulley then slipped a small cotter pin in the hole I drilled. Now if it slips off I only need to reach back and push the idler pulley up and catch the belt.

Pulled drier away from wall six inches. Pulled the plug for the drier power cord out of the wall socket and hooked it up so it would not fall down behind the drier, thereby knocking loose the vent hose. Removed two screws from front of filter housing opening (right of drier top). Lifted up drier top (lid) from the front and secured it in the up position using a stout strap with hooks on both ends. A prop is not a safe way to hold up the lid. Lid is held down only with mildly stubborn friction catches. Door switch was seen looking down along the inside of the drier front on the right side. There was nothing else in that area to cause confusion. Opened drier door and removed two vertical screws that secure the door switch to the front panel of the drier. Lifted the now-free switch and unplugged it from the wire socket. Plugged in replacement switch securely. Replaced the screws securing the new switch to the front panel. Checked that all wiring was back in place and clear of the drier drum. Lowered the drier top. Replaced the screws into the filter housing. Plugged the drier in. Tested the operation of the drier. Checked out spouse's smile. IMPORTANT - Checked that drier vent hose was still firmly in place. Pushed it back in place.

I followed instructions from video -- although the model used in the video was different, the approach was similar. Really the only difficulty was laying on my back (72 years old) and, with one hand and through feel alone (work area was not visible), getting the belt on the drive sprocket and the spring loaded wheel.

Click on the problem and find the possible solutions. Click on the part and watch the installation instructions. Unfortunately, mine was a bad thermostat/fuse that can only be purchased with the High Limit Thermostat which I had already purchased. What you might find helpful is that all thermostats and fuses should show continuity at room temperature when using an Ohm meter. Both purchases arrived within 30 hrs. of shipping. I was impressed. I ended up changing all three thermostats but was still way ahead considering a service call is $140 plus parts. I almost scheduled this service until stumbling onto this site thinking the heater was bad but was much cheaper than the local appliance/repair store. Again, the continuity test showed that the heater was fine and everything already mentioned above could be inspected and changed in less than 10 minutes.

Must remove 2 screws in the lint screen port anchoring the top of the dryer. Next the front panel of the dryer is removed from the machine by pulling up with a putty knife disassembling the clip holding the front in place. 2 more screws are then removed holding front panel of the dryer. The doors sensor switch is then removed freeing the front panel to be removed. At this point after the front panel is off and the top of the dryer lifts in an upwards position and you can now see the tub and the broken belt. The belt has to be reinserted around the tub into the pulley assembly before being pulled onto the motor. The pulley lifts upward towards the tub if it was put on correctly. It has to be placed underneath the pulley in order to have tension put on the belt firming the connection between the tub and motor. To reassemble just reverse what you have taken off in that order. Their is a DYI video which shows the process perfectly. Have a good one !

First, I would like to say how pleased I am with how quickly the part arrived. The repair was very straightforward. I used the video on the PartSelect site to guide me. Removed wires one at a time so that I could immediately put them on the corresponding place on the new part. Took less than 10 minutes.

Thousand dollars for a new dryer or twenty bucks for a new belt. Thank-you parts select. Ordering was easy and the instructions were bang on!