ALG866SBW Amana Dryer - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Jack from Memphis, TN
- Parts Used:
- LA-1003
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
The dryer door latch was broken.
The replacement part just snapped into place. (The old part had fallen out) It took less than 30 seconds to do the repair.
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- Customer:
- Joseph from LAGRANGE, IN
- Parts Used:
- WPY54414, WP500121, WP40111201, WP37001298
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
Idler pulley froze
Watched YouTube video
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- Customer:
- chuck from smithtown, NY
- Parts Used:
- 279834
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Dryer heat would go off and timer would not move. Dryer would continuously run
Replaced coils on gas valve.
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- Customer:
- Tom from Schaumburg, IL
- Parts Used:
- 279834
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
My drier would start create heat,than stop heating after 8-10minutes.
After reading the many different common stories,I replaced both coils (m series).Very simply lifted up the top of driver,held by 2 snap springs and 2 lint vent screws.Removed front cover,2 screws and 2 bottom snaps,coils down on bottom left.r/r both coils,reinstalled covers and let there be heat!This website is a blessing!!
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- Customer:
- John from Floyd, VA
- Parts Used:
- 279834
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Too much drying time, not hot enough
I removed the Drier Door and removed the Front Drier Panel exposing the Gas Valve & associated parts. I removed two (2) screws holding the Gas Valve Coils in place & replaced the 2 terminal coil, then replaced the screws, Front Cover & Drier Door. I liked the results so much, I ordered the other Gas Valve Coil and will replace it also when it arrives.
Good trouble shooting information.
Good trouble shooting information.
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- Customer:
- Mike from Pacifica, CA
- Parts Used:
- 56000
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
Load noise from dryer
Had to figure out how to open the dryer - bottom screws in front and work up, removed the drum and found the fan blade was broken. Had some difficulty removing the fanblade from the motor shaft but after that the new one was easy to install. I did need help to place the belt and drum back into place. as one person has to hold the belts on the pulley while the other adjusts the belt while putting the drum back into place.
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- Customer:
- Roman from Gaithersburg, MD
- Parts Used:
- WPY54414
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
dryer stoped working
At first i thought i had to buy new dryer, because i did not know what to do.I said, i never done this kind of repair before, well i put everything apart and notice that the idler pulley was worn out, then i said this is something that i can fix it if i get the part. I made several calls and couldn't find it. so went in internet and found it with you.
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- Customer:
- Ernest from Ida, MI
- Parts Used:
- WP2200376
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
Squeaking motor, over heating, thermal switch kicking out.
Unpluged dryer from outlet, disconnected vent, positioned dryer on side, removed screws from bottom panel, pulled pannel away from dryer body to gain access to motor. Disconnected drum belt from motor pulley, disconnected wire harness from motor. Removed motor mounting bracket assembly and placed entire assembly on floor. Removed clamps and blower assembly from old motor, installed new motor and reassembled. Very easy project, hardest part requires some trouble shooting knowledge to determine the exact cause of problem.
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- Customer:
- George W from Austin, TX
- Parts Used:
- WPY54414, WP56076, WP40113601, WP40111201, WP37001144, WP37001042
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- More than 2 hours
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
Progressively louder squeaky noise when drying
I followed the instructions found on this site. The hardest part was figuring out how to release the clamps at the front of the dryer so I could remove the top.
The key was to unbolt the clamps at the back of the dryer first, then to use a putty knife to release the two clamps at the front of the dryer that hold the top to the front.
The rest was easy by following the steps already listed on this site and removing the two front pieces, then the drum and replacing the parts. Putting it back together was simple since I placed things in order and had taken pictures with my cell phone as I went through the process.
The time I took, included vacuuming the inside of the dryer thoroughly. Now it runs like new.
The key was to unbolt the clamps at the back of the dryer first, then to use a putty knife to release the two clamps at the front of the dryer that hold the top to the front.
The rest was easy by following the steps already listed on this site and removing the two front pieces, then the drum and replacing the parts. Putting it back together was simple since I placed things in order and had taken pictures with my cell phone as I went through the process.
The time I took, included vacuuming the inside of the dryer thoroughly. Now it runs like new.
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- Customer:
- Gene from Encino, CA
- Parts Used:
- 489P3, WP503979, WP40113801
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Socket set
Dryer would cycle on once then wouldnt continue to heat to dry
I first unpluged the dryer then removed the bottom cover (two screws) then found the correct socket and removed the components and replaced them wire for wire. PLugged it back in and strated the dryer and watched the process. Unforunately it cycled twice and then stopped working. I went to a local appliance store to buy another high limit fuse because I thought it blew and happened to talk about the situation to a man behind the counter and he insisted it was the gas coils so I bought some and replaced them and its working fine now without replacing any more components. Im not a aapliance repair man but mechanically inclined but experience does pay. Hey, everything is easy if you know how...
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- Customer:
- Gary from PORTSMOUTH, OH
- Parts Used:
- WP40113801
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Socket set
High limit thermal fuse blew because of lint buildup in discharge vent pipe
Opened things, saw lint buildup, cleaned inside of dryer, then cleaned entire vent discharge system, put new thermal fuse back, turned on dryer and heard metal to metal, opened dryer back up, saw missing glides (both gone). Ordered what I thought were 2 glides, 2 days later 1 showed, called and was told I didn't "update" when I changed order info (parts supplier cautioned to replace 2, should only sell in pairs) so then had to wait again for 2nd glide to show up. Replaced them today and noticed dried clothes are now cooler when finished. Will note in future if clothes are warmer, clean ductwork.
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- Customer:
- James from Mokena, IL
- Parts Used:
- 489P3
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
At the end of the drying cycle, the clothes had a bunt smell. I checked the lower compartment of the dryer and found the limit thermostat in two pieces and realized this could be the culprit. I was able to snap them together, but this did not work, therefore a new stat
First I unpluged the dryer, removed the two screws from the bottom access panel. I used a small socket to remove the screws securing the limit stat to the burner chamber, nut driver was too long.
I installed the new limit stat with the two screws and attached the two leads. Plugged in the dryer and conducted a test run, burner ignited. I turned the dryer off and replaced the access panel.
I installed the new limit stat with the two screws and attached the two leads. Plugged in the dryer and conducted a test run, burner ignited. I turned the dryer off and replaced the access panel.
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- Customer:
- Dale from Livingston, TX
- Parts Used:
- LA-1003
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Door wasn't staying closed
popped up top of dryer -- With pliers squeezed clips on inside of latch - - with screw driver pryed latch out -- just pused new latch in.......... Thanks to parts select for sending part sooo fast.. wife was happy.. Thanks, Dale
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- Customer:
- Jose from Ridgecrest, CA
- Parts Used:
- 489P3, WP40113801
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
Third round after replacing gas line dryer ran one month then heating element went bad replaced and it overheated these two components.
Removed the top and opened the front cover had to use a 1/4 inch socket with a 5/16 and a short adapter to remove the sensors. The push on wire clips were very hard to remove so I used a pick to open them a little. Before replacing the wires I sqeezed them back to normal so they would not vibrate off. Not much space to work if you don't have the tools but it could be done by removing the gas tube and the heat tube but it will take more time. We have put perhaps 30 loads into the dryer this week and its working better than ever. The Thermostat limit switch was blown used a voltmeter to test for continuity. and I accidentally broke the ends of the high limit switch off while testing due to the tight clips. Maytag sure cant make them like they used to but glad I found a place to get the parts which are easy to replace and the instructions are great to figure out the problem.
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- Customer:
- Charles from Baltimore, MD
- Parts Used:
- 37001141
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
Lint Duct Assemby Replacement
(Used joe From Beacon Falls Instructions)
UNPLUG THE DRYER FIRST
1. There are two bolts on the back of the dryer that connect the control panel and the dryer. Remove these bolts with a socket wrench and their brackets. Set aside.
2. Lift up rear of dryer top a few inches to locate two metal flanges on the front top of the dryer. Lower the back side. Now on the front of the dryer, insert the flat head of a large screwdriver (cover flat head with rag to prevent scratches) where the flanges are located and pry upward, one side at a time. It does not take much pressure until the top “pops” open. Repeat prying motion on other side of front dry to free the top.
3. The top of the dryer is now loose and can be slid backwards enough to see down the front of the dryer. Locate two screws (one on each side) inside the front panel a few inches down. Use the same socket size with wrench to remove these two screws.
4. Notice there are three wires that connect for the light on the right hand side. With care, these can remain attached. Alternately, take the time to write down the color and order and remove these now
5. Pull the front panel towards you slightly and lift up. The front panel will now come free and can be set aside. If you did not remove the wires, the front will need to be propped up close enough to the dryer so that the wires are not ripped out.
6. Remove the three Phillips Head screws located inside the dryer drum that attach the Lint Duct Assembly. Pull out the old assembly. Vacuum out if necessary.
7. Insert the new Lint Duct Assembly and secure with the three screws.
8. Reattach dryer front and top.
9. Done.
UNPLUG THE DRYER FIRST
1. There are two bolts on the back of the dryer that connect the control panel and the dryer. Remove these bolts with a socket wrench and their brackets. Set aside.
2. Lift up rear of dryer top a few inches to locate two metal flanges on the front top of the dryer. Lower the back side. Now on the front of the dryer, insert the flat head of a large screwdriver (cover flat head with rag to prevent scratches) where the flanges are located and pry upward, one side at a time. It does not take much pressure until the top “pops” open. Repeat prying motion on other side of front dry to free the top.
3. The top of the dryer is now loose and can be slid backwards enough to see down the front of the dryer. Locate two screws (one on each side) inside the front panel a few inches down. Use the same socket size with wrench to remove these two screws.
4. Notice there are three wires that connect for the light on the right hand side. With care, these can remain attached. Alternately, take the time to write down the color and order and remove these now
5. Pull the front panel towards you slightly and lift up. The front panel will now come free and can be set aside. If you did not remove the wires, the front will need to be propped up close enough to the dryer so that the wires are not ripped out.
6. Remove the three Phillips Head screws located inside the dryer drum that attach the Lint Duct Assembly. Pull out the old assembly. Vacuum out if necessary.
7. Insert the new Lint Duct Assembly and secure with the three screws.
8. Reattach dryer front and top.
9. Done.
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