7493-LEM437 Amana Dryer - Instructions

To make working on the dryer easier we tipped the dryer back, about 45 degrees, removed the bottom panel, the door panel, note: make sure to mark the inside chassis or case with a sharpie where the wires go by color, etc… note: this makes it easy to place every thing back in order. I removed three screws on the bottom left side, to allow the more room for me to remove the drum. You can not remove the drum just yet but until the rubber belt is removed. I went below where the tension wheel is… it’s back behind the motor… incidental the tension wheel and the arm was the problem, it had warn to one side. Now release the rubber belt around drum. I pulled the drum out. The motor assembly is all one piece so it’s easy to remove. Don’t forget to unplug the plastic Molex plug and mark where you wires go. Two screws in front on the motor assemble and the whole assemble comes out. From here I could do a good job of cleaning the motor assemble and replacing the parts without any difficulty. Re-assembly was really easy, just one issue with placing the rubber belt took some time, and I need some help. I was finished in less than two hours. Bingo fixed!!

(I knew the gas coils were bad, since the gas ignitor would glow brightly as the burner attempted to ignite. So I knew everything except the gas valve was operating normally.)

Unplug the electrical cord to the dryer. Remove the front access panel. Remove the retainer clip for the gas coils (2 screws). Remove the coils and unplug the electrical connections. Connect the new coils to their respective electricl connections. Slide the nes coils back onto their respective posts on the gas valve. Replace the retainer clip, and 2 screws to hold it in place. (I then plugged the dryer back into the wall outlet to visually check the burner operation) Everything worked fine so I then replaced the front panel.

Removed front of dryer, unplugged each coil to determine where buzzing was coming from.....determined it was the boosting coil....ordered part and replaced. Dryer works great....we think it had be going bad over time because drying times have noticeable decreased.

I first ordered the coils from a different web site and they sent the wrong ones. The job would have been much eaiser if i had just returned and ordered from here. Instead i cut wires and tried the others but since they were worng, it did not work. I didn't label the wires so it was a puzzle to put it back together. Once i had the wires connected properly it was a simple fix. You just open the top and take the front pannel off, remove the drum and it is right there at the bottom. Two screws take the cover off of the coils and they slide off the gas valve. Slide the new ones on and replace the cover. Put the front pannel back on, close the top and its good to go. I first tried the highlimit thermostat, and termostat with no luck. The flame would light when it was cold, but once warmed up, the flame would ignite and immediatly go out. The coils did the trick.

I remove the front control panel and to get to the bottom front dryer door off. Using my volt meter i checked all the sensors and thermal. I surf the internet for hint and some one mention to replace the coil since some time you could have one goes out and the other working still. After i replaced the coil kit it works like a champ.

First, I unplugged the dryer. Then I used a flat screw driver to pop the top open. I removed 2 bolts from the front cover and removed the front door cover. I also took pictures of the electrical connector on the door so I would remember how the wires went back on. Then I removed 4 bolts from the front drum guide and lint screen holder. This allowed me to remove the drum & old belt. While the drum was out, I pried an access panel open on the side of the dryer. I then glued the new back felt piece in place. I put the new belt around the drum and re installed it. I re-installed the front guide and front cover re-connecting the door electrical switch. With the access panel open, I attached the belt to the motor. I then plugged it back in and turned it on to verify operation pryor to snapping the top cover back in place. Very easy repair.

Simply remove the front panel screws(2) at the bottom of the dryer. Pull bottom of panel outward until it swings free of the top(taking care not to pull the wires out). Rotate out of the way and remove the two left side screws holding the drum plate and snake the belt around the flange. Reinstall those screws and remove the same ones on the right side. Snake the belt behind that flange and reinstall screws. Then all you have to do is run the belt around the motor sheave and the idler pully and your done. Reinstall the front panel.

i removed the front panel of the dryer, two screws on the bottom. then removed the 2 screws on the heating element that was located in the back of the dryer. pulled out the heating element and tested the parts with my husband's electrical equipment. the fuse and thermostat were bad. replaced those two parts on the heating element, connected all the wires back and screwed it back in the dryer. it works like a brand new dryer.

Pulled the big front panel by removing two screws near bottom of front and pulling out at bottom until the top pops loose. Vacuumed out all of the dust and checked for loose connections. Ran dryer - igniter would light, but no gas. Checked the two solenoids with a VOM. the one with the two leads would intermittently read Infinity (open). Super simple repair. Remove two screws on solenoid bracket on top of the gas valve, Replace solenoid and plug it back in with the easy push-on connector. NO PROBLEM - all fixed.

I removed the front panel of the dryer by removing the 2 screw that secure it at the bottom and pulling upward to disconnect the cover at the top. I then removed the two screws that hold the metal cover that secures the 2 elements in place. I disconnected the wire plugs from the 2 elements, removed the 2 elements and replaced them with the new parts making sure to place them in the same positions as before. I then replaced the housing cover and tightened the screws. Then I replaced the front cover of the dryer.

removed the dryer female part that was broken with needle nose pliers and inserted the new one, on the door i removed one phillips screw and r/r the male piece with the new one and re-inserted the screw. that was all, very easy repair

Because the wheel had stopped and the shaft kept turning (junk from child's pocket got in there), the nut stripped itself away from the wheel causing low RPM and low air movement (lazy flame, vibration and clothes not drying)

I had to use a screwdriver to break the wheel away from the center nut and remove the fan. I then removed the air fan housing (3 bolt behind the fan wheel). I used a small pair of vise grips to hold the motor shaft staionary while I used a pair of channel lock pliers to remove the nut that was molded into the fan from the motor shaft. It was harder to get the nut started then I would have thought.

Once complete, I put the fan housing back on and threaded the new wheel on easily. The motor has external fins on it which turn with the shaft-I held one lightly while I threaded the fan on to keep the shaft from turning. Tighten just slightly more than hand tight-don't go crazy-it's threaded to stay tight with rotation. Works great and very quiet now.

1. Unplugged the dryer and turned off the gas. Removed front panel and lower access panel to get at to internals.
2. Removed two screws and rotated cabinet top up out of the way.
3. Removed lint filter, air duct and damaged blower (exhaust fan) housing seal.
4. Released tension on the belt. Removed front bulkhead and drum.
5. Removed exhaust fan housing cover and unscrewed the exhaust fan impeller from the motor threaded shaft.
6. Removed the exhaust fan housing from the motor mount.
7. Removed the motor mounting clamps, removed the motor frame ground, unplugged the wiring harness from the motor and removed the motor assembly.
8. Vacuumed out all lint. Lubricated the idler pulley and both cylinder (drum) rollers.
9. Installed replacement motor assembly in the motor mount and secured with two mounting clamps. Plugged the wiring harness connector into the motor. I had to fabricate a longer motor frame ground (#12 AWG and two crimp ring lugs) because the ground connection point on the new motor was different than on the original motor.
10. Reinstalled the exhaust fan housing on the motor mount, threaded the exhaust fan inpeller onto the motor threaded shaft and reinstalled the exhaust fan housing cover.
11. Removed the original gas valve wiring harness and installed the replacement harness. The original harness had some melted insulation.
12. Reinstalled the cylinder (drum) and the front bulkhead. Re-tensioned the belt using the spring loaded idler pulley.
13. Reinstalled the new felt seal, air duct and lint screen.
14. Rotated the cabinet top into position and secured it with two screws.
15. Reinstalled the front panel and lower access panel. I reversed the swing of the door, while I was at it.
16. Plugged the dryer in, turned on the gas and fired it up. IT WORKS PERFECTLY. Clothes dry in record time because ot the new seal. Repairs cost less than $150.

Note: My wife is somewhat disappointed because privately she was hoping for an excuse to buy one of those new dryers with the "Steam Cycle".

The pully wheel was completely worn down as the belt had cut into it over time. I'm not sure if the lever and shaft needed replacing but since the part was inexpensive I decided to replace it as well as the wheel. The easiest way to access the parts was to turn the dryer on its side and remove the bottom panel of the dryer. This eliminated the need to remove the drum. It was then easy to reach in with a wrench and remove nut and bolt that held on the pulley lever. I also had to remove the spring which was attached to the lever. Next I put the new pully wheel on the shaft of the new pulley lever. The most difficult part of the job was installing retainer clip which holds the wheel on the shaft. This took a little persistance. After this was done it was simple to put the assembly back in place, reattach the spring and tighten the nut and bolt. I then replaced the bottom panel of he dryer, turned it upright and plugged it in. The whole job took just over an hour. One tip: Before removing the old assembly, I took a picture of it with my cell phone camera so I would remember how it went back together.

I just inserted the door catch, which by the way fit in perfectly. Thanks. Took 5 seconds to repair.