ALG643RAW-PALG643R Amana Dryer - Instructions

The first thing I did was to unplug the dryer from the wall. Then I removed the bottom two screws and slid the bottom cover off so i could see all the way to the back, I tipped the dryer back against the wall and searched for the problem with a flashlight. I noticed that one of the guide wheels that held the drum in place was sheared off. I took the new drum support roller out and carefully slid it over the shaft, I had to jiggle it around for a bit, but then it finally was seated correctly. I replaced the washer and then the clip using a pair of needle nose pliers and a regular screw driver and then turned the dryer by hand to see if the wheel came off. After confirming that it worked, I put the cover back on, and plugged it in and tested it.

Remove front panel, lint basket, motor mounts,exhaust hood, front drum brackets. Then slip serpentine belt around drum, pressure w/ tension idler pulley and slip around drive motor spindle. Replace all parts in reverse order (a two person job).
Vacuumed inside of dryer (full of lint.)

First I read all of the other stories about this problem so I would have the correct parts. At $6 a roller, decided to get all 3 & a belt. Pulled the lower panel off (2 bolts), then the door (2 bolts). Marked the door switch wires. Took 2 bolts out of the top & tilted it back. I found this the easiest way to access the drum. Mark 2 wires before disconnecting them from the top. All bolts are 5/16". Removed the plastic piece that connects the lint trap to the blower (3 screws). Have to access these from inside the drum. Removed the belt, then the drum. The bad roller was the belt tension roller. Can't get to the snap ring from the front of the dryer for this roller. The 2 rollers in the back you can get to without removing the drum completely. Very easy to replace all rollers with the drum out. Also very easy to re-assemble. Buy or borrow a good set of snap ring pliers. Make sure you diagram the proper belt route if you don't have a picture. I printed a picture off this web site. Have someone hold the drum up so you can get the belt on, otherwise the entire repair is a 1 person job. Went back together in about 10 minutes. Total cost $40.00 parts & shipping.

First I turned off the gas supply line. Then unplug the dryer. Remove bottom front cover by removing the 2 screws (1 at each side) at the bottom. Next remove the 2 screws (1 at each side) located at bottom of front door panel. Pull front panel away from dryer and pull down slightly. This will disconnect the entire front panel(with door) from dryer. Carefull because there is a switch located at the top right corner of the panel on the inside. This will not allow you to remove the door yet. On some scratch paper, sketch the switch and correct color wire positions. Remove wires at connections. Pull the drum toward front dryer carefully. This dislodges it from the back of the dryer. No need to remove it from dryer. This way the belt still remains in place. From inside drum, use a pair of snap ring pliers to remove the snap ring from the support roller shaft located on left side of drum, below where the drum was sitting prior to pulling it forward to dislodge it from inside rear of dryer.
Remove old wheel , place some grease on inside of new support roller and some on the shaft. Install new roller and replace snap ring. Slide drum back in place inside the dryer at the rear. Hand rotate the drum to ensure it is properly installed. Reconnect the switch wires to the front panel. Slide panel up into place so that the clips (at top of panel) lock into place(square holes in top cover plate of dryer). Have the door open when doing this because you have to seat the front of the drum into the front cover. Reinstall the 2 screws. Test spin the drum again by hand. If it feels right, it's correctly seated.
Reinstall bottom front cover. While everything is apart, you may want to use a vacuum cleaner to clean the inside of your dryer. Perfect time to do this. Plug dryer back in and open gas supply line. Test the dryer. Should be nice and quiet again.
This fix is for the left side support roller only. There is a support roller on the right side also. In my case I only needed to fix the left side support roller. The inner diameter of the roller was badly worn and needed to be replaced. You may want to purchase the support roller shaft at the same time. I didn't and will need to do this repair again. I only purchased the support roller and when I removed it, I noticed the shaft is badly worn also. In my case, temporary fix until the shaft is ordered and then I'll do this again.

The door had always opened with the wrong swing and it wasn't til I needed to repair this that I noticed you could change the swing. I changed the swing of the door and then noticed that the clip was included on both sides so i did not need to repair the catch. I still have the part so when it breaks again, I can just pop it in.

This was much easier than I expected. I pulled the front covers, released the belt (just move tentioner pulley with fingers to release belt), removed the drum to access the motor. The motor was easy to remove. I loosened then nut in the fan assy using my channel locks (because I did not have a socket that big and then removed the wire harness clip to prepare the motor for removal. The two mounting clips were the tricky part as the fit over a metal ear on each side locked by the spring tension of the clips. It looks like a special tool my be available but I simply used my big straitslot and heavy downward pressure to remove and install. This repair can be completed by anyone with very basic mechanical skills and impress the spouse.

First unplugged unit .2nd took off front cover and removed bottom screws and that allows it to open up and lean back.3rd pryed the motor lock down springs by applying pressure down and out . forth used vise grips to hold motor shaft, while using the 7/8 socket to loosen the blower fan.Last go through steps to put back together.

Unplug the power cord from the unit. Remove the lower front panel; then the upper front panel including the door (unplug wire to door switch). Then remove the cover on the fan housing. Need to block the motor from turning; I used a stick to jamb the front of the motor; then unscrew the old blower fan and screw on the new one. Then replace the cover and put front panels back on.

To make working on the dryer easier we tipped the dryer back, about 45 degrees, removed the bottom panel, the door panel, note: make sure to mark the inside chassis or case with a sharpie where the wires go by color, etc… note: this makes it easy to place every thing back in order. I removed three screws on the bottom left side, to allow the more room for me to remove the drum. You can not remove the drum just yet but until the rubber belt is removed. I went below where the tension wheel is… it’s back behind the motor… incidental the tension wheel and the arm was the problem, it had warn to one side. Now release the rubber belt around drum. I pulled the drum out. The motor assembly is all one piece so it’s easy to remove. Don’t forget to unplug the plastic Molex plug and mark where you wires go. Two screws in front on the motor assemble and the whole assemble comes out. From here I could do a good job of cleaning the motor assemble and replacing the parts without any difficulty. Re-assembly was really easy, just one issue with placing the rubber belt took some time, and I need some help. I was finished in less than two hours. Bingo fixed!!

Unplugged dryer, turned off gas, raised front of dryer with two 2X4's on edge resting on legs, removed two lower panel screws, removed lower panel. Removed lower blower & filter assembly, screws (3) are on the inside of drum. (Good chance to clean it out) Removed two lower front upper main panel screws. Supported top panel with wood for access. Removed panel slowly, marked wires that go to door switch, set panel aside. Removed tension on belt by reaching in on the right lower side and unhooking the tensioner from belt, look to see how it is installed, for reinstallation on assembly. Pulled drum out slowly as not to damage seals on drum. replaced parts, attached with self tapping screws.(screws all the same size) reassembly in reverse order. Will need to put belt on drum before installing drum. Check drum alignment with rollers and seals. Used very small amount of high pressure grease on roller bracket and shaft assembly where the support roller shaft spins for lubrication. All's quiet. (Vacuumed out inside while dissassembled)

Un plug the dryer ***
Pulled the top portion of the dryer off
Used socket to undue two nuts to remove the front panel and unhooked the wires.
unscrewed 3 screws and took out the air duct assembly. Cleaned the dryer of all lint and replaced the air duct with a new one.
Reverse the process.

First, I unplugged the dryer. Then I used a flat screw driver to pop the top open. I removed 2 bolts from the front cover and removed the front door cover. I also took pictures of the electrical connector on the door so I would remember how the wires went back on. Then I removed 4 bolts from the front drum guide and lint screen holder. This allowed me to remove the drum & old belt. While the drum was out, I pried an access panel open on the side of the dryer. I then glued the new back felt piece in place. I put the new belt around the drum and re installed it. I re-installed the front guide and front cover re-connecting the door electrical switch. With the access panel open, I attached the belt to the motor. I then plugged it back in and turned it on to verify operation pryor to snapping the top cover back in place. Very easy repair.

Simply remove the front panel screws(2) at the bottom of the dryer. Pull bottom of panel outward until it swings free of the top(taking care not to pull the wires out). Rotate out of the way and remove the two left side screws holding the drum plate and snake the belt around the flange. Reinstall those screws and remove the same ones on the right side. Snake the belt behind that flange and reinstall screws. Then all you have to do is run the belt around the motor sheave and the idler pully and your done. Reinstall the front panel.

removed the dryer female part that was broken with needle nose pliers and inserted the new one, on the door i removed one phillips screw and r/r the male piece with the new one and re-inserted the screw. that was all, very easy repair

Because the wheel had stopped and the shaft kept turning (junk from child's pocket got in there), the nut stripped itself away from the wheel causing low RPM and low air movement (lazy flame, vibration and clothes not drying)

I had to use a screwdriver to break the wheel away from the center nut and remove the fan. I then removed the air fan housing (3 bolt behind the fan wheel). I used a small pair of vise grips to hold the motor shaft staionary while I used a pair of channel lock pliers to remove the nut that was molded into the fan from the motor shaft. It was harder to get the nut started then I would have thought.

Once complete, I put the fan housing back on and threaded the new wheel on easily. The motor has external fins on it which turn with the shaft-I held one lightly while I threaded the fan on to keep the shaft from turning. Tighten just slightly more than hand tight-don't go crazy-it's threaded to stay tight with rotation. Works great and very quiet now.