AEM427L2 Amana Dryer - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Raymond from Greenville, NC
- Parts Used:
- WP40111201, WP37001287, WP37001042, WP23748
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- More than 2 hours
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench set
Screeching Dryer And Odor
Used spackle knife to pop clips on top of dryer. Raised lid of dryer to expose belt. Next used nut driver to disassembly screws from front door and then base ( bag them. Labeled bag and marked inside of dryer with corresponding number to match hardware) disassembled dryer door latch switch and marked red + and white no marking. ( Middle connection not used) removed dryer clean out screen and then removed dryer face next removed dryer blower cover no hardware ( just lift upwards see side clips) opened up side of dryer to gain more access (spread apart manually) removed belt and marked where belt was on tumbler postion with permanent marker used 2 car hold down cords to hold drum in place with back of dryer next removed belt from idler (note to make a drawing so that you know how to wrap this around the idler otherwise the belt will appear to be too large. Remember to reconnect spring. Next step was to removed drum rollers. . . This required a retaining ring pliers cost about $15. I replaced the snap retaining rings. This was easy but requires that you pull the drum forward about 4 inches to position. Next replaced belt and reassembled. Project was a success and runs like new. . . . Saved me $129 service call plus $65 parts without maytag mark-up plus additional labor for the job $130. My cost $65 + $15 tool (retaining ring pliers) $80 versus $259 + ( $65 *50%)ark up on parts) $80 versus $356 -- thanks parts select for saving me $276 during the christmas holiday.
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- Customer:
- Richard P from Fort Worth, TX
- Parts Used:
- 56000
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- More than 2 hours
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
Dryer racket, not drying clothes
Being my lousy Maytag washer died THE PREVIOUS DAY, spewing water, etc. and I had rushed out and bought a new washer, I was determined not to replace the dryer (though I now am a serious NON_FAN of Maytag).
I disassembled the whole dryer and finally got to the blower wheel which was broken lose from the molded nut. I supposed something like a dime or penny got in there to shred it.
PartSelect's website allowed me to find the part in 5 minutes. It was on my doorstep the next afternoon.
Installation was straightforward BECAUSE I stacked all the screws and and labeled them appropriately. It took about 30 minutes to reassemble and the toughest bit was getting the drum in with the belt positioned properly.
I disassembled the whole dryer and finally got to the blower wheel which was broken lose from the molded nut. I supposed something like a dime or penny got in there to shred it.
PartSelect's website allowed me to find the part in 5 minutes. It was on my doorstep the next afternoon.
Installation was straightforward BECAUSE I stacked all the screws and and labeled them appropriately. It took about 30 minutes to reassemble and the toughest bit was getting the drum in with the belt positioned properly.
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- Customer:
- PAUL from GRESHAM, OR
- Parts Used:
- WP40111201, WP37001287, WP37001042, WP500121
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Socket set, Wrench set
Screaching on start-up, then continuous after time
Idler was the noise source. Drum support rollers were failing also. I almost spent $500.00 on a new dryer, glad I replaced the parts instead. Sounds and works like new. Watch the video,its very helpful. Thanks Parts Select. You should advertise your services on TV or radio. I am glad I found you.
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- Customer:
- Michael from Milton, FL
- Parts Used:
- WPY54414
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Loud Squealing Sound When Dryer Is Running>
First unplug the dryer,then remove the front bottom panel. With your 5/16 nut driver reach to the rear of the vent tube under the dryer and remove the lone screw that holds the tube in place. Lean the dryer forward and remove the tube from the rear of the dryer,this will allow you to see and reach the idler wheel from the front. Release the belt,feel for the clip that holds the wheel in place on the opposite side of the front,with your thumb nail or something else if preferred pry out on one side of the clip until it pops off. Slide the wheel off being careful not to lose the washer,slide the new wheel on and replace the clip. Put the belt back on replace the tube,which is actually the toughest part because you have to find the hole for the lone screw as you can't see it,but with a little patience it is easily enough done. Put the vent hose back on replace the front panel and plug it in and go!!it took me 30 min. Alittle tough to feel for some of the parts,but really much easier than you would think.
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- Customer:
- Maure from Sparks, NV
- Parts Used:
- WPY54414, WP40111201, WP37001144, WP23748, WPW10121334
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Wrench set
Idler Pulley Bearing froze
First of all I would not have done this if it wasn't for
your website. Using the schematics to figure out
the right parts was easy. It was also helpful in the
actual repair process. I have added your website
to my favorites in my browser. The parts arrived in 3 days and I live in Reno. Great Website.
M.B.
your website. Using the schematics to figure out
the right parts was easy. It was also helpful in the
actual repair process. I have added your website
to my favorites in my browser. The parts arrived in 3 days and I live in Reno. Great Website.
M.B.
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- Customer:
- Steve from Columbia Station, OH
- Parts Used:
- WPW10116735, WP40113801
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- More than 2 hours
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
Heat Loss
How to take apart a dryer:
The first way:
1) Remove front lower panel (2 screws on bottom).
2) Remove the front black plastic air duct.
3) If you have long arms, or an extention socket wrench, you might be able to reach the heating unit, otherwise use the Second way:
The second way:
1) Remove front lower panel, as this will expose the screws to the dry door unit.
2) Remove dryer door unit (2 screws on bottom, 2 spring clips on top), and disconnect assoc wires.
3) Remove dryer lid:
3.1) Remove 2 screws on front (previously hidden by door unit
3.2) Remove 2 clip hooks on back of dryer
3.3) Lift lid rear above center guides, and wiggle away from front spring clips
4) Lay dryer on back, as this will allow easier removal of the drum
5) Remove screws securing the heater control unit.
Attempt 1: Disconnected heating element and saw that the heating coils were broken. Ordered new heating coil and new belt.
Attempt 2: 3 weeks after installing new heating element, my wife informed me that the unit was no longer putting out heat!!! So, I ordered the Thermostat and Thermal Fuse. Put dryer back together.
Attempt 3: Turned it on - absolutely nothing - dead, dead, dead. Discussed purchasing new $600+ dryer. Started taking it apart again, and discovered that door wire was never reattached. Meaning the dryer thought the door was wide open.
Attempt 4: Now the dryer squeaks. Took dryer partially apart and added white grease to wheels that support the drum. Currently, all is well with the world.
Moral of the story: Replace the entire heating unit, check belt for cracks and grease the wheels if you get a chance.
The first way:
1) Remove front lower panel (2 screws on bottom).
2) Remove the front black plastic air duct.
3) If you have long arms, or an extention socket wrench, you might be able to reach the heating unit, otherwise use the Second way:
The second way:
1) Remove front lower panel, as this will expose the screws to the dry door unit.
2) Remove dryer door unit (2 screws on bottom, 2 spring clips on top), and disconnect assoc wires.
3) Remove dryer lid:
3.1) Remove 2 screws on front (previously hidden by door unit
3.2) Remove 2 clip hooks on back of dryer
3.3) Lift lid rear above center guides, and wiggle away from front spring clips
4) Lay dryer on back, as this will allow easier removal of the drum
5) Remove screws securing the heater control unit.
Attempt 1: Disconnected heating element and saw that the heating coils were broken. Ordered new heating coil and new belt.
Attempt 2: 3 weeks after installing new heating element, my wife informed me that the unit was no longer putting out heat!!! So, I ordered the Thermostat and Thermal Fuse. Put dryer back together.
Attempt 3: Turned it on - absolutely nothing - dead, dead, dead. Discussed purchasing new $600+ dryer. Started taking it apart again, and discovered that door wire was never reattached. Meaning the dryer thought the door was wide open.
Attempt 4: Now the dryer squeaks. Took dryer partially apart and added white grease to wheels that support the drum. Currently, all is well with the world.
Moral of the story: Replace the entire heating unit, check belt for cracks and grease the wheels if you get a chance.
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- Customer:
- Rick from Marlborough, MA
- Parts Used:
- WPY54414, WP40111201, WP37001298, WP37001042, WP500121, WPW10121334
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Noise and Heat will not stay on (Gas Dryer)
Parts that were recommended for the noise issue were spot on. Instructions were very helpful and made the job go very smooth. Replaced the belt, rollers don't forget to order (2) felt pad and idler pulley replaced.
The part suggestions for the heat problem did not fix the problem. The burner flame would come on for 2-5 min. then go off. A few min. later the burner would try to ignite but would not start. The igniter would get cherry red but no activation. I end up replacing the coil kit. Turned off the gas removed (2) screws and wala done 5 min. and it fixed the problem.
The part suggestions for the heat problem did not fix the problem. The burner flame would come on for 2-5 min. then go off. A few min. later the burner would try to ignite but would not start. The igniter would get cherry red but no activation. I end up replacing the coil kit. Turned off the gas removed (2) screws and wala done 5 min. and it fixed the problem.
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- Customer:
- Priscilla from Portland, ME
- Parts Used:
- LA-1003
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
dryer door would not close
discovered it was a broken latch. Ordered the latch, only took 2 days to arrive and all I had to do was remove the broken latch and snap in the new one. I saved myself a service call. I'm very happy!!!!!!
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- Customer:
- Erwin from Somersworth, NH
- Parts Used:
- LA-1003
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
replace door closer
Removed power and front panel, removed broken latch, pushed in new latch and replaced the front panel and power. Done
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- Customer:
- JOSEPH from ANSONIA, CT
- Parts Used:
- LA-1003
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
The female catch in door was bro9ken
I took out the old worn out part and replaced with the one I order.
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- Customer:
- Lynette from Rock Island, IL
- Parts Used:
- LA-1003
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
broken door clip
After watching the great install video, I followed his lead and within 20 min had my dryer door fixed. This dryer was bought in 1986 and I really thought I was looking at buying a new dryer. How wonderful that I could fix it for less than $11. Easy to find web site, easy to find part, great instructions and fast delivery!
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- Customer:
- Joseph from Upper Montclair, NJ
- Parts Used:
- WP40113601, WP40111201, WP37001042, WP23748, WPW10121334
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Screeching dryer followed by later clunking when roller went
I pretty much followed a lot of the earlier postings on partselect.com that provided encouragement to pursue replacing this part on my 17 year old dryer (sorry, money is tight these days and I prefer repair to $800 replacement).
I'd like to add that I borrowed a pair of snap-ring pliers from work which made removal and later securing of roller onto shaft much easier and probably avoided a lot of knuckle bruising and cursing.
I erred though in a couple of places during the replacement. Disassembly took about 20 minutes. However, when I re-assembled I had mistakenly already put the roller onto the shaft before trying to put the drum back in. That isn't possible so I had to remove (an initial groan but only a few extra minutes in the end) the roller from the shaft, then reposition the drum and then the roller back on the shaft.
I also decided to replace the belt while I was in there and I should have taken a picture or made a drawing of the belt route before I took it off since I was later left pondering how the heck to snake the belt onto the shaft and also the tensioner. A quick trip to the internet though showed me a similar route and reminded me how to route it.
I'd also like to add to be cognizant of the wires on the door and front panel when disassembling.
Anyone with any sense of mechanical ability and a little common sense ought to be able to do this repiar.
Thanks Part Select!
I'd like to add that I borrowed a pair of snap-ring pliers from work which made removal and later securing of roller onto shaft much easier and probably avoided a lot of knuckle bruising and cursing.
I erred though in a couple of places during the replacement. Disassembly took about 20 minutes. However, when I re-assembled I had mistakenly already put the roller onto the shaft before trying to put the drum back in. That isn't possible so I had to remove (an initial groan but only a few extra minutes in the end) the roller from the shaft, then reposition the drum and then the roller back on the shaft.
I also decided to replace the belt while I was in there and I should have taken a picture or made a drawing of the belt route before I took it off since I was later left pondering how the heck to snake the belt onto the shaft and also the tensioner. A quick trip to the internet though showed me a similar route and reminded me how to route it.
I'd also like to add to be cognizant of the wires on the door and front panel when disassembling.
Anyone with any sense of mechanical ability and a little common sense ought to be able to do this repiar.
Thanks Part Select!
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- Customer:
- Robert from Manteca, CA
- Parts Used:
- 61927, WP40111201
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Socket set
heating element had a short (broken heating coil) & belt had seen better days very worn after 14 years of service
remove front part of the dryer and rise up the top to remove drum to replace the belt. than remove two screws for the heating element piece of cake repair.
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- Customer:
- Keith from CARLISLE, IA
- Parts Used:
- WPY54414, WP40111201, WP37001298, WP37001042
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
All the videos and directions
showed starting withe removal of the dryer top. With my dryer, I needed to start by removing the bottom front panel (2 screws). Next the door panel (2 screws). Now I could remove the top panel (2 screws). From here, the tear down went like the directions th My biggest problems were, figuring out I didn't start with the dryer top. Then getting a proper sized snap ring pliers to remove the drum rollers and and the idler pulley.
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- Customer:
- Scott from Narvon, PA
- Parts Used:
- WPW10116735, WP40113801
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Termostat blew
Thermostat failed and would not regulate temperature, thus blowing out high limit thermal fuse as it should, after melting the wire connecting the two components. After replacing both items and the melted wire, I cleaned all the vent ducts to assure that they were clear. The appliance then worked as good as new.
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