CE8317W2 (PCE8317W2) Amana Dryer - Instructions

I pretty much followed a lot of the earlier postings on partselect.com that provided encouragement to pursue replacing this part on my 17 year old dryer (sorry, money is tight these days and I prefer repair to $800 replacement).

I'd like to add that I borrowed a pair of snap-ring pliers from work which made removal and later securing of roller onto shaft much easier and probably avoided a lot of knuckle bruising and cursing.

I erred though in a couple of places during the replacement. Disassembly took about 20 minutes. However, when I re-assembled I had mistakenly already put the roller onto the shaft before trying to put the drum back in. That isn't possible so I had to remove (an initial groan but only a few extra minutes in the end) the roller from the shaft, then reposition the drum and then the roller back on the shaft.

I also decided to replace the belt while I was in there and I should have taken a picture or made a drawing of the belt route before I took it off since I was later left pondering how the heck to snake the belt onto the shaft and also the tensioner. A quick trip to the internet though showed me a similar route and reminded me how to route it.

I'd also like to add to be cognizant of the wires on the door and front panel when disassembling.

Anyone with any sense of mechanical ability and a little common sense ought to be able to do this repiar.

Thanks Part Select!

Being my lousy Maytag washer died THE PREVIOUS DAY, spewing water, etc. and I had rushed out and bought a new washer, I was determined not to replace the dryer (though I now am a serious NON_FAN of Maytag).

I disassembled the whole dryer and finally got to the blower wheel which was broken lose from the molded nut. I supposed something like a dime or penny got in there to shred it.

PartSelect's website allowed me to find the part in 5 minutes. It was on my doorstep the next afternoon.

Installation was straightforward BECAUSE I stacked all the screws and and labeled them appropriately. It took about 30 minutes to reassemble and the toughest bit was getting the drum in with the belt positioned properly.

First of all I would not have done this if it wasn't for
your website. Using the schematics to figure out
the right parts was easy. It was also helpful in the
actual repair process. I have added your website
to my favorites in my browser. The parts arrived in 3 days and I live in Reno. Great Website.

M.B.

Went on line to this sites video's to diagnose the problem. Steve Ash is EXCELLENT. Put idler& roller replacement video's in my Favorite File! Ordered parts PS11741930&PS11741913 from this site on line. Good price, Fantastic 1 1/2 day delivery (Fed Ex ) Referred to great videos for installation. Hints: 1) Be sure to identify ALL wires 2) Be careful removing snap rings from rollers, I stretched mine and had to reform them.(new ones did not come with the rollers. 3) It would be a good time to replace the belt & drum pads when the drum is out.

First we had to virtually take the entire dryer housing apart - not very user friendly. We found that one of the two mounting screws on on of the rollers was gone. The mount was just wobbling around which caused the roller to fail and all of the noise. The wheel removal was a bit tough since there is very little room to pull it up and off of the center post. Definately need at least one helper to pull up on the drum while the wheels are removed and installed. Once the two new rollers were in place, the dryer worked like it was new. Not an easy job, but very do-albe - saved a ton of money doing it myself. Two must - haves: good set of snap ring plyers and one patient helper.

I disconnected power and vent hose then tipped dryer on its back. I took off lower panel and door ,disconnecting wires to door and light and hanging them over the side,i then removed the front plate and felt seal the plastic fan shroud and lint trap come out as one piece along with the front plate.when i could look down on the drum,standing on the left side ,i disconnected the screw connecting the top plate to the left side plate allowing the top to gain a little play,this is the amount needed for the drum to be removed,pull belt tensioner slightly as to release tension remove the belt from motor shaft.At this point remove drum and set aside,the lower felt ring and support rollers will be exposed as well as tension spring and tension roller,i used a mirror and guided the snap ring pliers into place on the tension roller,At this point pull on rear felt ring it may come loose easy ,if not work some adhesive remover into the cracks where the glue is and keep agitating it ,eventually the glue will begin to release and more and more of the remover can get in washing the felt ring off,clean real good after using remover soap and water and allow to dry ,apply a thin ring of high heat adhesive smooth out to spread even all around when it becomes tacky begin applying new felt ring,while this adhesive cures perform the same procedure on the front panel and its felt ring while these rings are drying into place undo snap rings and pull support rollers out and replace in like order replacing thrust washers and snap rings if you damage them ,the roller on the tensioner is more tricky but if you use a mirror and a light it is easy to sneak in there lastly when preparing to reassemble and drum and belt are in place just before you replace the front panel it is prudent to replace the neoprene slides,reassemble front plate and ensure that the felt ring lines up and goes in evenly all the way around re-attach top left corner ,reinstall door and wires as well as bottom plate this will conclude the procedure i learned all of this the hard way i should have just replaced all the parts at once i was in that machine 6 different times Daniel 2017

I just followed the video instructions and really they were not as good as some of the customer descriptions which were far more detailed. It was like an experienced repairman telling another experienced repairman how he has been doing this repair for 20 years. The customers get into the kind of detail that is very helpful. More important parts select never tells you to read the blogs first before ordering your parts. $100 later I bought a new GE dryer which I would have done 10 days ago had I known Maytag has a repetitive problem with the high limit thermal fuse which no one has a cure for. So I did a whole bunch of repairs replacing parts on a dryer which needed to be replaced.

As it turned out, the felt was only part of the problem. The guide bracket had been cut thru by the drum. This all started when a golf tee got stuck in the drum area. It took very little time to destroy the guide bracket. Dryer was built by Whirlpool. Parts are built to the bare minimum. These appliances are designed to break in a couple of years. There is no doubt about it. I installed the new guide brkt, glued the new felt on and put it all back together. The job is pretty straight forward but you need to be mechanically inclined.

The Dryer is about 25-30 years old. I replaced the motor due to overheating, while I had the dryer disassembled I decided to change out the idler pully wheel and the drum support rollers. This was my first time changing out the motor. Surprisingly, the blowerfan blade came off the shaft of the motor very easy. I was concerned about the age of the dryer and was anticiapating this could be a problem fortunately, it came off very easy. Removing the old motor was easy. The only issue I had was seating the new motor in the correct position. I felt that the motor was not in the correct posiotion however, I was not sure being that this was my first install.
After trying several times, rotaing the motor back and forth (side to side) within the motor holding end brackets the motor fell into place and I was able to put on the end motor clamps on correctly. The drying is now working.

Had to lay dryer on back. Cause it didn't have a back cover had to take the front door off and go in thru the front. Had to take the vent off. Had to use scotch tape to hold the belt in place while I got it on. It would have been a lot easier if they had a back cover. I only hope I don't have to do it again as it squells a bit on start up. Bill

There was initial rumbling and thumping then the drum failed to rotate under power. I could however rotate the drum by hand. This site suggested the rollers or belt as well as the idler assembly. I decided to renew all the wearable parts and ordered the belt, rollers, glides and idler assembly. It was in fact the idler. The idler wheel had disintegrated and collapsed in the center. It must have run (rumbling) until it finally seized and stopped. Replaced all the parts and the dryer is even better now than new. It was a good opportunity to vacuum out all the lint inside the cavity (that took most of the time and also found $0.36 in loose change). Also found it easier to remove the electrical connections with pliers rather than pull on the wires and risk detaching the wire from the clip.

I totally disassembled the Dryer, and replaced the Guide Rollers, Blower Wheel, Idler Pulley Shaft, Idler Pulley, and Belt.

Step by step, I removed the bottom front panel with a putty knife to compress the spring clamps, removed the inner lint trap, disconnected the door switch and springs and blower connection under the drum, removed the lint trap/ blower housing, remove nuts at bottom sides of door panel, lift top front of dryer (putty knife, spring clamps) to remove nuts at the top then removed the door panel. I then released the belt from the (spring) pulley and pulled the drum out. Pay attention to how the seals were put on! I removed the old seals and cleaned off the old adhesive with acetone and a steel scrubby( wear gloves when using acetone and when applying new adhesive, and work in a ventilated area!) Follow instructions for applying the adhesive for the seals. Put back together in reverse order. Repair successful!

I first removed the front panel and door on the dryer using a 5/16th nut driver. I needed to disconnect the light and switch to remove the door. I raised the top lid of the dryer to expose the drum. I rmover the fan schroud and lint filter by removing 4 5/16 screws with the nut driver. I disconnected the belt from the idle tension pully and removed the drum. The drum support rollers were visible on the back frame of the dryer. I removed the bad roller using snap ring pliers. After cleaning the roller support shaft and lubricating the shaft with grease I replaced the drum support roller and secured it with the snap ring. I also replaced the dryer belt although it was still workiing. I reasembled the dryer after giving the inside a cleaning with the shop vac. The hardest part was getting the belt secured with the tension idle pulley. When assemblying the fan schroud make sure it is snug against the fan so it doesn't leak. Replace the top and front door and cover connecting the switch and light. If you get the switch wires correct the dryer will run with the door shut otherwise reverse the wires.

This dryer is an older one. I have kept it running throughout the years by just replacing parts a needed. This was a kind of rebuild. The dryer was making that squeaking noise when running so I knew the "glides" were worn and the belt, rollers and idler pulley had never been replaced. I ordered the parts from this website and I must say it took a while for them to ship, of course I guess since it was during the holidays that's to be expected. Once I received the parts I took the dryer apart. This model has a lower panel that comes off first then there are two 5/16" sheet metal screws that hold the door panel in place and then two more to hold the top down. Then I removed the front bulkhead which holds the drum glides. I replaced the glides then removed the drum from the dryer. To removed the motor there are two 5/16" screws to removed then pull the motor from the bottom. I then replaced the idler pulley, the two drum rollers on the rear of the dryer and the belt on the drum. Reassembly went fairly easy. I found the door switch was bad during reassembly because the dryer would not shut off once the door was opened. So picked up a new door switch from a local supplier, replaced it and all is good now. There really isn't that much to a dryer. A motor, heating unit (in the rear), control unit/timer on top, and then the rollers, idler pulley, and drum belt. The video instructions on this website were quite helpful. Hopefully it will last another year.