ALG643RAW (PALG643RAW1) Amana Dryer - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Joseph from LAGRANGE, IN
- Parts Used:
- WPY54414, WP500121, WP40111201, WP37001298
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
Idler pulley froze
Watched YouTube video
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- Customer:
- chuck from smithtown, NY
- Parts Used:
- 279834
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Dryer heat would go off and timer would not move. Dryer would continuously run
Replaced coils on gas valve.
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- Customer:
- Tom from Schaumburg, IL
- Parts Used:
- 279834
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
My drier would start create heat,than stop heating after 8-10minutes.
After reading the many different common stories,I replaced both coils (m series).Very simply lifted up the top of driver,held by 2 snap springs and 2 lint vent screws.Removed front cover,2 screws and 2 bottom snaps,coils down on bottom left.r/r both coils,reinstalled covers and let there be heat!This website is a blessing!!
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- Customer:
- John from Floyd, VA
- Parts Used:
- 279834
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Too much drying time, not hot enough
I removed the Drier Door and removed the Front Drier Panel exposing the Gas Valve & associated parts. I removed two (2) screws holding the Gas Valve Coils in place & replaced the 2 terminal coil, then replaced the screws, Front Cover & Drier Door. I liked the results so much, I ordered the other Gas Valve Coil and will replace it also when it arrives.
Good trouble shooting information.
Good trouble shooting information.
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- Customer:
- Mike from Pacifica, CA
- Parts Used:
- 56000
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
Load noise from dryer
Had to figure out how to open the dryer - bottom screws in front and work up, removed the drum and found the fan blade was broken. Had some difficulty removing the fanblade from the motor shaft but after that the new one was easy to install. I did need help to place the belt and drum back into place. as one person has to hold the belts on the pulley while the other adjusts the belt while putting the drum back into place.
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- Customer:
- Roman from Gaithersburg, MD
- Parts Used:
- WPY54414
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
dryer stoped working
At first i thought i had to buy new dryer, because i did not know what to do.I said, i never done this kind of repair before, well i put everything apart and notice that the idler pulley was worn out, then i said this is something that i can fix it if i get the part. I made several calls and couldn't find it. so went in internet and found it with you.
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- Customer:
- George W from Austin, TX
- Parts Used:
- WPY54414, WP56076, WP40113601, WP40111201, WP37001144, WP37001042
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- More than 2 hours
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
Progressively louder squeaky noise when drying
I followed the instructions found on this site. The hardest part was figuring out how to release the clamps at the front of the dryer so I could remove the top.
The key was to unbolt the clamps at the back of the dryer first, then to use a putty knife to release the two clamps at the front of the dryer that hold the top to the front.
The rest was easy by following the steps already listed on this site and removing the two front pieces, then the drum and replacing the parts. Putting it back together was simple since I placed things in order and had taken pictures with my cell phone as I went through the process.
The time I took, included vacuuming the inside of the dryer thoroughly. Now it runs like new.
The key was to unbolt the clamps at the back of the dryer first, then to use a putty knife to release the two clamps at the front of the dryer that hold the top to the front.
The rest was easy by following the steps already listed on this site and removing the two front pieces, then the drum and replacing the parts. Putting it back together was simple since I placed things in order and had taken pictures with my cell phone as I went through the process.
The time I took, included vacuuming the inside of the dryer thoroughly. Now it runs like new.
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- Customer:
- Ernest from Ida, MI
- Parts Used:
- WP2200376
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
Squeaking motor, over heating, thermal switch kicking out.
Unpluged dryer from outlet, disconnected vent, positioned dryer on side, removed screws from bottom panel, pulled pannel away from dryer body to gain access to motor. Disconnected drum belt from motor pulley, disconnected wire harness from motor. Removed motor mounting bracket assembly and placed entire assembly on floor. Removed clamps and blower assembly from old motor, installed new motor and reassembled. Very easy project, hardest part requires some trouble shooting knowledge to determine the exact cause of problem.
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- Customer:
- Dale from Livingston, TX
- Parts Used:
- LA-1003
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Door wasn't staying closed
popped up top of dryer -- With pliers squeezed clips on inside of latch - - with screw driver pryed latch out -- just pused new latch in.......... Thanks to parts select for sending part sooo fast.. wife was happy.. Thanks, Dale
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- Customer:
- James from Mokena, IL
- Parts Used:
- 489P3
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
At the end of the drying cycle, the clothes had a bunt smell. I checked the lower compartment of the dryer and found the limit thermostat in two pieces and realized this could be the culprit. I was able to snap them together, but this did not work, therefore a new stat
First I unpluged the dryer, removed the two screws from the bottom access panel. I used a small socket to remove the screws securing the limit stat to the burner chamber, nut driver was too long.
I installed the new limit stat with the two screws and attached the two leads. Plugged in the dryer and conducted a test run, burner ignited. I turned the dryer off and replaced the access panel.
I installed the new limit stat with the two screws and attached the two leads. Plugged in the dryer and conducted a test run, burner ignited. I turned the dryer off and replaced the access panel.
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- Customer:
- Forrest from Dayton, OH
- Parts Used:
- R0000410
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
timer would not turn off drying cycle
unplugged power cord, pulled timer knob off of stem, removed screws at rear of control panel, swung top of panel forward, LEAVE WIRES ON TIMER, used screw driver to release timer lock tab, turned timer to unlock retaining tabs, NOW REMOVE WIRES ONE AT A TIME AND PLACE ON CORRESPONDING TAB ON NEW TIMER, install new timer by placing tabs in openings and turned to lock in proper position, making sure lock tab snapped into place, put panel back in position, replace screws, replace knob on timer stem, plug power cord in, test cycle for operation,CONGRATULATIONS, it works!
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- Customer:
- Brian from Boyertown, PA
- Parts Used:
- WPY54414, WP40111201, WP37001042
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
Squeaky Maytag Dryer
I went to RepairClinic.com & FixYa.com for some great advice. I searched the internet for the parts. PartSelect.com was the most inexpensive. Delivery was good. Using the repairman's manual I found on the internet I followed the steps to remove each panel, in order. The wiring was the most bothersome, but okay to resolve; write it down and pull it off! I don't think the rollers, in the back, were bad. The tension idler was extremely worn. I tightened the tension idler bracket at the base. I did need to use an O-Ring Spreader to get all the rollers off and on. Although there were more panels to remove than older models, it was easier! Wrap the belt around the drum before reinstalling. The belt will loop around the drive & tensioner relatively easy. Replace the rubber seal around the drum & replace all the panels. Things are quieter now than I can remember in a long time.
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- Customer:
- John from Ballwin, MO
- Parts Used:
- WP37001042, WPW10121334, WP40113601, WP23748
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Excessive noise
1.Unplug unit
(gas model, did not shut off)
2. Remove bottom front panel-2bolts
3 Remove main front panel-2 bolts (no need to remove door)
4. Make note of wire colors on door switch and light, disconnect
5. Remove 3 screws that hold air duct assembly(that lint filter rests in) then set main front panel aside
6. Remove lower air duct (to blower motor)-3 bolts
7. Lift and tilt-up top lid/panel of dryer and wedge wood or ? (this will give you easy access and better light)
8. Reach back behind motor to move idler pulley and remove belt from motor & idler pulley
9. Remove 4 bolts and lift up and out front bulkhead frame that holds drum in place
10. Slowly pull straight out & slightly up entire drum
11. Remove circlip/retaining ring, washer, roller, washer and shaft assembly.
12. Vacuum entire unit
13. Light lubricant on shaft when reinstall in reverse order.
Snap ring pliers and a mental note of how the belt is routed on idler will prevent unwanted profanity.
This is an inferior/substandard unit before Maytag bought them. Spend the money and replace both rollers with new shafts (about 50.00). I have spent over 140.00 in parts to keep this unit running (less than 8 years old). So do the math before you start pouring money into this model.
(gas model, did not shut off)
2. Remove bottom front panel-2bolts
3 Remove main front panel-2 bolts (no need to remove door)
4. Make note of wire colors on door switch and light, disconnect
5. Remove 3 screws that hold air duct assembly(that lint filter rests in) then set main front panel aside
6. Remove lower air duct (to blower motor)-3 bolts
7. Lift and tilt-up top lid/panel of dryer and wedge wood or ? (this will give you easy access and better light)
8. Reach back behind motor to move idler pulley and remove belt from motor & idler pulley
9. Remove 4 bolts and lift up and out front bulkhead frame that holds drum in place
10. Slowly pull straight out & slightly up entire drum
11. Remove circlip/retaining ring, washer, roller, washer and shaft assembly.
12. Vacuum entire unit
13. Light lubricant on shaft when reinstall in reverse order.
Snap ring pliers and a mental note of how the belt is routed on idler will prevent unwanted profanity.
This is an inferior/substandard unit before Maytag bought them. Spend the money and replace both rollers with new shafts (about 50.00). I have spent over 140.00 in parts to keep this unit running (less than 8 years old). So do the math before you start pouring money into this model.
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- Customer:
- Carrie from Hamden, CT
- Parts Used:
- WP37001142
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
My lint trap in my dryer broke.
My repair was very easy, the lint trap just comes assembled like when you buy the dryer. However, I had a hard time finding the dryer part at a store.
Part select had the item, they made it really easy to find online. The best part is how fast I received it! My dryer broke the day before thanksgiving (wednesday) i ordered the part that night and had it saturday morning! and thats with thursday being thanksgiving! I didnt even the pay extra for faster shipping! I would use them again and recommend them!
Part select had the item, they made it really easy to find online. The best part is how fast I received it! My dryer broke the day before thanksgiving (wednesday) i ordered the part that night and had it saturday morning! and thats with thursday being thanksgiving! I didnt even the pay extra for faster shipping! I would use them again and recommend them!
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- Customer:
- Charles from Baltimore, MD
- Parts Used:
- 37001141
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
Lint Duct Assemby Replacement
(Used joe From Beacon Falls Instructions)
UNPLUG THE DRYER FIRST
1. There are two bolts on the back of the dryer that connect the control panel and the dryer. Remove these bolts with a socket wrench and their brackets. Set aside.
2. Lift up rear of dryer top a few inches to locate two metal flanges on the front top of the dryer. Lower the back side. Now on the front of the dryer, insert the flat head of a large screwdriver (cover flat head with rag to prevent scratches) where the flanges are located and pry upward, one side at a time. It does not take much pressure until the top “pops” open. Repeat prying motion on other side of front dry to free the top.
3. The top of the dryer is now loose and can be slid backwards enough to see down the front of the dryer. Locate two screws (one on each side) inside the front panel a few inches down. Use the same socket size with wrench to remove these two screws.
4. Notice there are three wires that connect for the light on the right hand side. With care, these can remain attached. Alternately, take the time to write down the color and order and remove these now
5. Pull the front panel towards you slightly and lift up. The front panel will now come free and can be set aside. If you did not remove the wires, the front will need to be propped up close enough to the dryer so that the wires are not ripped out.
6. Remove the three Phillips Head screws located inside the dryer drum that attach the Lint Duct Assembly. Pull out the old assembly. Vacuum out if necessary.
7. Insert the new Lint Duct Assembly and secure with the three screws.
8. Reattach dryer front and top.
9. Done.
UNPLUG THE DRYER FIRST
1. There are two bolts on the back of the dryer that connect the control panel and the dryer. Remove these bolts with a socket wrench and their brackets. Set aside.
2. Lift up rear of dryer top a few inches to locate two metal flanges on the front top of the dryer. Lower the back side. Now on the front of the dryer, insert the flat head of a large screwdriver (cover flat head with rag to prevent scratches) where the flanges are located and pry upward, one side at a time. It does not take much pressure until the top “pops” open. Repeat prying motion on other side of front dry to free the top.
3. The top of the dryer is now loose and can be slid backwards enough to see down the front of the dryer. Locate two screws (one on each side) inside the front panel a few inches down. Use the same socket size with wrench to remove these two screws.
4. Notice there are three wires that connect for the light on the right hand side. With care, these can remain attached. Alternately, take the time to write down the color and order and remove these now
5. Pull the front panel towards you slightly and lift up. The front panel will now come free and can be set aside. If you did not remove the wires, the front will need to be propped up close enough to the dryer so that the wires are not ripped out.
6. Remove the three Phillips Head screws located inside the dryer drum that attach the Lint Duct Assembly. Pull out the old assembly. Vacuum out if necessary.
7. Insert the new Lint Duct Assembly and secure with the three screws.
8. Reattach dryer front and top.
9. Done.
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