ADG20L1A Admiral Dryer - Instructions

removed the two screws that hold the coils in place pulled the coils terminal connections off removed and replaced with new coils reattached quick disconnect terminals dryer now works better than when it was new

I tilted the unit back enough to scew the new legs into the threaded holes.

1st replaced limit thermostat because it tested bad; this did not resolve the problem. Initial burn was successful. Heating element would heat but burner would not ignite for subsequent burns unless allowed to cool down for 10 minutes or more. Coils tested at correct values, but a u-tube video said that was not always an indication of a flawless coil set. It was either the coils or the burner itself. Burner would not have been a justifiable expense even though it came with new coil set, so tried the coil set, and it resolved the problem.

went on line to look up the problem troubleshooting a maytag gas dryer. after checking different sites I figured that I needed a coil valve. searched for the part I needed and found the best deal on this site. I ordered the part and and by following the directions. I was able to replace the part on my own.

The repair was much easier than anticipated. Next time I could do it in less than 30 minuites.

Replaced the axel that holds the rollers as well as the rollers. Just rotate the left one 90 degrees and it slides out.

Probably what took the most time was puting the belt back on. It is old so I was being careful. It took a couple of trys to keep it on the rollers as I moved the drum into position. So easy I am convinced to buy another Maytag.

Wife was impressed so that's worth something!

Disconnected power....lifted the top of the dryer to gain access to parts requiring replacement... Unsrcewed two screws 1/4 inch nutdriver....disconnected the two wires...connected the wires to the new part and attached screws...Removed 1 screw from heat element and raised element to get to heat sensor...sensor pops out removed wires and popped new sensor in...replaced wires closed top lid reconnected power source and started dryer

I ordered the part. This is now my third order. It appears that every 10-12 months this happens. I opened the top of the dryer by using a flat head screw driver to push in two clips. The clips are along the front edge of the lid about two inches in from each side. Push in with the screw driver while pulling up the lid. Once the lid is open (of course the plug is pulled) I locate the heat coil. Above the heat coil is the the thermostat, I replace that. Or maybe it is the over heat fuse, I forget. I then replace the sensor found along the side of the heat coil. Re-attach wires. Close lid. Plug back in and ready to go.

i removed the door and front panel then removed the two screws holding the coil bracket,disconnected the two wires on coils,set new coils in place and reversed the above process

Pry the front of the top up - it's held on with barbed fasteners that just snap out. Underneath the hood against the back panel is the heating coil assembly. On top of it is the thermostat, hanging from the side of it is the thermal fuse. I removed the heating elements (coiled wires held in frame) to make access to the other parts easier.
Pretty much plug-n-play. One nut driver takes off everything, you might need a needle-nosed pliers to push the lugs onto the contacts of the replacement parts (they fit VERY snugly).

Also, remove the front panel and clean out the lint in the air duct - lint collecting there is apparently what drives up the temp causing the fuse to blow in the first place.

Checked ignitor it was working ok, disconnected 3 pronged coil and disconnected 2 pronged coil using multi tester checked continuity on both coils both tested 0,with help of operator ordered M Series new style coil kit. When parts arrived installed coils attached wire harnesses installed bracket and 2 screws that secures coils. Started dryer it worked and stayed working who needs the Maytag Repair Man probably saved about 200.00 between service call and markup on coils. Thanks Virtual Repairman

First I opened the top of the dryer, then removed the bracket holding the high limit thermostat. Then I removed the heating element to gain access to the thermal fuse. Installation was the reverse. I also cleaned out the lint trap on the front of the dryer and also checked the vent duct (it is cleaned every year). Very easy repair.

First we removed the front panel then the door. Removed the old coils and put in the new coils, oh yeah don't forget to disconnect the power supply first. Sure enough that was all it took and it runs great. You really can fix your own appliance if you take the time to do some research.

I used a socket to take of the front cover. I used a screwdriver to remove the two screws that held the coils in place. Replaced the coils and put everything backs together. Piece of cake!

First i unplugged the dryer from the outlet. Then I used a flat head screwdriver to lift open the top cover of the dryer. I removed the two wires connected to the thermal fuse and removed the two screws that attached the fuse to the holder. I placed the new fuse on the holder using the two screws. I plugged the two wires back up to the fuse and closed the lid. Be sure to fixed what caused the problem before attempting to use the dryer. I my case there was a massive amount of lint beneath the lint tray which had the vent blocked.

Unplug unit turn off gas, remove only bottom front panel first tried radient flame sensor was not the problem it was the coils which were infront easy to acess with small screw driver remove two prong coil and replaced then the three pronged coil being sure to line them back before tigtening left off cover and watched for ignition once it turned on and ran replaced cover and done.