LDEA300AGW Admiral Dryer - Instructions

I first unplugged the dryer. I had to move the dryer forward a little. Then I used a screwdriver to pry up the top of the dryer from the front. I positioned the top all the way back until it rested on the front of the cabinet. Make sure it's far enough back so it doesn't accidentally close on you while you are working on it. I located the high limit thermostat right above the heating coils. I unplugged the two wires going to it. I used a nut driver to remove the screw that was holding it to a bracket. I then I removed the two screws that held it to another bracket. I installed the new thermostat to the bracket and then reinstalled it to the bracket above the coils. I plugged the two wires back in and closed the lid. Make sure the dryer vent is still attached if you had to move it. The dryer works fine now and doesn't overheat.

Once we realized we needed to take the FRONT off the dryer, not the back all went well. It was an easy fix and the part fix perfectly. Instead of $60 or more for a repairman, we spent less than $20 fixing the dryer.

I first made sure there was power to dryer. It was ok so I unpluged the dryer from the socket and afer researching on line I was sure it was the thermal fuse. I check continuity on the fuse and it did not have continuity. So I installed a new fuse and high temp thermostat (they come together)
Just lift top of dryer up and back. In the left rear corner is the heating element. On top of the element is the thermostat. On the right side is the fuse it is a round disc with two white wires attached. The thermostat and heating element need to be removed to install fuse (one screw each and lift out of the way ) . Need to check for blocked lint or like I had the white plastic hose had a kink and need replaced with metal lint hose.

I followed the "How to" video on your web site. Most importantly, I cleaned the entire filter area which probably caused the problem as your instructions recommended. I will do that annually going forward. I would recommend your service to anyone.

1.Removed retaining clips,washers,spacer,and cylinder rollers
2.Removed and replaced support assembly
3.Installed spacer
4.Installed cylinder roller assembly
5.Installed washers and retaining clips
This is my second time ordering parts from PartSelect and I am amazed how fast I recieve my orders, which minimizes the downtime of an appliance that's frequently used.

Vacuum out the dryer vent & trap of all the tenant's sleeping bag stuffing, intall the new lint trap and Voila! It works again.

Absolute First thing to do - Unplug drier from power source.
1st I looked up the parts drawing on line. 2nd Took the front of the drier off . It was held on by two
hex head screws. iIused a four-in-one screwdriver as a nut driver. 3rd. Lifted the front off the two post that held the front on, being careful not to strecth the wiring. 4th Took old wheel off, by removing snap ring with a pair of pliers,it came right of, no puller was needed because the hub was out of round. 5th Pushed the new wheel on, being sure to line up the "D" shape to match the motor shaft.
I could not push the wheel all the way on so I took a short piece of 1/2 copper tubing and used that to drive the wheel into place. The tubing fit over the motor shaft and was smaller than the hub. Be careful to tap the plastic wheel on, you do not want to crack the wheel. 6th Put snap ring on -with pliers. Reassembled front. Finished.

I took apart the dryer by unscrewing the top and the front, front comes off by just undoing the two top screws on the inside. I figured it was something to do with the rollers since the noise was ciclycal. The hardest part was to put the drive belt back on. It helps to have a second person for about 5 minutes.

Pulled the old seal off then pushed the new one in place.

i followed part select instructions that probable cause was either thermal fuse or high limit thermostat.put ohm meter across both & saw thermal fuse(has pink dot on it) part 53-1182 was open.ordered thermal fuse replacement kit. part#LA-1053. the problem i had was after reaching down the side of heating housing removing the bracket with the thermal fuse,replacing & reconnecting it i had a hard time reinstalling the bracket,very tight space & i don't have very big hands.finally got the fuse in it's hole in the bracket & slid & jammed the bracket into the side of the mounting housing & it stayed secure.dryer started

After watching the great install video, I followed his lead and within 20 min had my dryer door fixed. This dryer was bought in 1986 and I really thought I was looking at buying a new dryer. How wonderful that I could fix it for less than $11. Easy to find web site, easy to find part, great instructions and fast delivery!

Lifted top from dryer and fuses were in the back of drum just below heating coil. Used nut driver to remove heating coil to gain access to fuses and replaced them. Process was quick and easy. Diagram from this site made locating fuses elementary!

P.S. I have no certified experience in appliance repair.This was my first time ever and dryer works perfect.

I just removed 1 screw that held the safety thermostat in and replaced it. Then I removed the long screw that holds the heating element and the high limit fuse in place. Replaced the fuse, cleaned out the lint duct area. Closed the dryer lid and pluged it in, it worked fine.

I took out the old worn out part and replaced with the one I order.

Removed power and front panel, removed broken latch, pushed in new latch and replaced the front panel and power. Done