ADE25K3W Admiral Dryer - Instructions

DISCONNECT THE POWER. Double check the dryer is unplugged. Use a putty knife to free the latches holding the top of the dryer in place. Lift up the top of the dryer and secure it in place (be sure it's safely held open and won't come crashing down onto yourself as you work). Remove the two screws on the inside and near the top of the dryer, which hold the front and side panels. Gently lift up on the front panel (it may help to open the dryer door to get a better grip). Once free from the bottom clips, carefully rotate the front panel so that the door sensor wires are not strained. Once the front panel is out of the way, grab the drum and firmly lift it up and away from the back. (The drum has rollers and ridges at the rear and you'll need to pull the drum out of its "track"). Slide the new belt around the drum and position the drum about halfway inside the dryer. Loop the belt around the motor, but not the tensioner, (it will be easier to install the drum if you wait to tension the belt). With the belt around the motor, gently slide the drum back keeping the belt around the motor pulley. Press and guide the drum back onto the rollers at the rear. Check the belt is positioned correctly around the drum and motor. Reach back from the front and loop the belt around the tensioner. Rotate the drum by hand and make sure the belt is aligned and the drum spins smoothly. Position the front panel and slide it onto the lower clips. Install the screws being very careful not to drop them into the abyss... Close the lid and plug in the power.

Needed a belt. Only snag was for me was re-installing front panel (door)

Raise the top and then remove two screws to remove front. Once the front was removed on this Maytag model it was not necessary to remove the dryer drum. I simply lifted the drum slightly and slid the belt around the drum to position the belt. I then pressed the tension arm toward the drum and fed the belt around the drive pulley and tension pulley. I spun the drum a few turns by hand to insure that the belt was aligned properly. Then replaced the front cover and the top. Turned on the dryer to test and job was completed. Thanks to your video and prompt parts delivery the job was a snap. My wife didn't even have time to get mad.

I unscrewed the door catch and pried out with some resistance the strike part. Screwed in the catch and pushed in the strike. Closed door. Voila!! Back in business with assurance.

Screwed the new “$40” dollar light bulb back into the recessed socket. The new bulb is much smaller that the original bulb and much harder to get fingers into small area where the bulb went. After several try’s, I got it in.

Watched the video on the site and it was spot-on! Super-easy, took like 10 minutes to replace the belt. Thanks!

Before ordering the part, I found this website by linking from a video on YouTube where several people showed how they did it. Simply two screws in the lint removel chute and pushed in the two clips holding the top and two inside screws holding the front panel. Held the machine tilted back onto a table and placed two 4" wooden cubes underneath it so it wouldn't come forward and one more 4" cube under the drum. After cleaning out the inside, I slipped the new belt around the drum (ribbed side down) and taped it in place with a couple of pieces of painter's tape temporarily. Hooked the idler wheel guide and looped the belt in it. Tested movement by spinning it by hand to check alignment and removed tape. Reassembled the front, side and top panels accordingly and tested it. Voila! This was my first attempt and I saved myself some bucks. The last repair was done by Se•rs and their service person took my credit card number for the invoice and promptly went out and charged over $3,000 on it. He was eventually caught. Great incentive to do yourself, huh?

Tools and materials:

#2 Philips head screw driver
Standard flat-tip screw driver
1/4" nut driver or ratchet
1/4" drive sockets: 1/4, 5/16
Something 3-4 inches thick to wedge under drum for support (i.e. scrap 4x4, soap bottle, books)

Replacement Procedures:

1. Unplug dryer from wall outlet
2. Pull out lint screen
3. Remove 2 Philips screws attaching lint trap to dryer top
4. Lift hinged dryer top panel near front and lean it back on wall. You may need to pry between side panels and top with flat-tip screw driver to get it started.
5. Disconnect plug from dryer door switch near front
6. Remove two 1/4" and two 5/16" hex screws inside front panel near top.
7. Open dryer door and lift front panel straight up to disengage tabs from slots near bottom of front panel.
8. While supporting drum with one hand, lift front panel and set aside with other hand.
9. Slip replacement belt around drum with ribs facing drum and position it where old belt left its mark.
10. Wedge something under drum to support it while installing the belt.
11. Re-position tensioner in two slots in bottom panel just in front of motor. On my model the bend in the spring will be on the right side with the idler pulley to the left, when viewed from the front.
12. Ensuring the belt isn't twisted, thread a small loop of it through the opening in the tensioner just below the pulley.
13. With the left hand, push against the tensioner spring while working the loop over the drive pulley.
14. While supporting drum with one hand, remove whatever you put under the drum to support it.
15. Replace front panel by aligning the slots with the tabs near the bottom and lowering it into place.
16. Carefully slip the drum opening over the flange on the front panel and replace hex screws.
17. Slowly roll the drum in one direction or the other until the belt aligns and centers itself.
18. Re-connect the plug for the dryer door switch.
19. Lower the dryer top and press until it snaps back into place.
20. Replace philips screws to secure lint trap and replace lint screen.
21. Plug dryer back into wall outlet, close door, set to dry, and press start.

The repair was much easier than anticipated. Next time I could do it in less than 30 minuites.

Replaced the axel that holds the rollers as well as the rollers. Just rotate the left one 90 degrees and it slides out.

Probably what took the most time was puting the belt back on. It is old so I was being careful. It took a couple of trys to keep it on the rollers as I moved the drum into position. So easy I am convinced to buy another Maytag.

Wife was impressed so that's worth something!

Removed the two screws at the back that hold the top of the dryer. Then I pried off the top at the front by inserting a screwdriver into the front to remove the top from the clips. Then I tilted up the top like a car hood.

I removed the two screws inside that held the front on and lifted the front off. Because of the wires attached to the front, I made sure to turn the front aside without pulling on the wires. After removing the broken belt, I put the replacement belt over the front of the drum, lifting the drum a little. Then I threaded the belt over the drive and around the tension wheel per a diagram I found on the web.

While I had the front off, I removed the lint trap and cleaned out probably decades worth of lint.

Then I replaced all the parts in reverse order, plugged it in and had a working dryer!

I pried the top of the dryer with a screw driver and then lifted the top of the dryer, I then removed the two screws "with a nutdriver" that held the door in place and then removed the door and drum. I then got the new belt and placed the belt over the drum and positioned the belt through the idler arm and then on the motor pulley. I had to hold the door and drum to lock the bottom of the dryer door to the dryer and then made sure the rear drum seal was in place and the belt did not slip off the motor pulley

Ordered belt, received it two days later. It was a perfect fit.
The top of my dryer pops up from the front where 2 screws will allow the front to drop to the ground. Lift the drum slightly to get the belt on. Had to wrestle with the idler arm for about five minutes, but I won.

First, I unplugged the dryer. I pulled up the lint filter, then unscrewed the two screws there. Then pulled up the top panel. I had a helper hold it up since it couldn't lean against the wall. Then I had to take the front panel off the dryer. The idiots at Kenmore used screws, not pins, so I needed to use a socket wrench to get those two out of the top corners. Then I lifted it up and off. I removed the broken belt. I put in the new one. I replaced the pulley, which had fallen without the tension of the belt holding it in place. It was pretty easy to figure out how it went, but I consulted the online community for a diagram. I threaded the belt in place, replaced the panels, and viola! It worked. Easy.

It was easy to remove the lint trap first, then the front dryer panel. The drum easily was removed and installing the new belt was a little tricky because the belt had to be mounted onto pulley while holding the drum in place. I had a little help from a friend to help me stabilize the drum as I placed the new belt. Once on, it was easy to re-install parts in reverse and have dryer working again.

- Unplug the electric dryer.
- Manually opened the top of the dryer.
- Unclipped the wire assembly attached to the front panel of the dryer.
- Removed two screws holding the front panel of the dryer, and remove front panel for access.
- Very Important!! Note how the old dryer is currently installed before proceeding.
- Rotated the dryer drum while working the dryer belt toward the rear of the dryer.
- Removed the dryer drum.
- Removed the old dryer belt.
- Put the new dryer belt around the dryer drum and put the dryer drum back onto the drum rollers and into the rear guides.
- Here's the hard part, lay on floor and reach into the pulley area and motor - wrap new dryer belt around these belt rollers as "noted" in the fifth step.
- Rotate dryer drum by hand to ensure the new dryer belt is exactly installed as the old dryer belt.
- Reinstall front panel.
- Reclip wire assembly onto the front panel.
- Manually close the top of the dryer.
- Plug in the electric dryer.