ADG20K2H Admiral Dryer - Instructions

Very difficult for one person, trying to get the belt engaged into the motor pulley and the idler pulley at the same time. Trying to overcome the tension of the heavy spring on the idler was the main problem, while coping with the small working space with the drum in place. Solved all the problems by removing the drum (for the 3rd time) and making a piece of wood to wedge in against the outside wall of the machine to hold back the spring loaded idler. Then slipped the drum back in place and gently slid the belt around the drum. Then reached in under the drum and slipped the wood piece out while making sure the belt remained on the pulleys. If I had the wood idea at the start, it would have been about a half hour job. Good luck, and don't pinch your fingers.

Had a problem holding drum in place and putting front back on. Got it together and drum wouldn't turn. Had to tear it a part again and belt had turned.

i followed part select instructions that probable cause was either thermal fuse or high limit thermostat.put ohm meter across both & saw thermal fuse(has pink dot on it) part 53-1182 was open.ordered thermal fuse replacement kit. part#LA-1053. the problem i had was after reaching down the side of heating housing removing the bracket with the thermal fuse,replacing & reconnecting it i had a hard time reinstalling the bracket,very tight space & i don't have very big hands.finally got the fuse in it's hole in the bracket & slid & jammed the bracket into the side of the mounting housing & it stayed secure.dryer started

I opened up the dryer lifting the lid with a putty knife and removed the two screws holding the front. I reached in and removed the belt and removed the drum. I took my shop vac and cleaned all the lint, the door passage to the lint screen extremly full of hard lint. I tested the coils with my multi meter and they tested bad. I also did the test that was suggested by Part Select and again it showed the coils as bad. Once I received the parts about three days, it only took about twenty minutes to install using just a screw driver to replace the coils and the belt went on real easy with easy access to the tentioner. and my dryer now runs more quiet and dries the clothes in half the time it used to take. My belt was still in pretty good shape but I put a new one on since I had it apart any way. My friend had the same problem with his dryer and spent $300.00 for a repairman to do the same thing. I tried to tell him it is not rocket science and very easy to do yourself. Thank you Part Select for the good repair advice as well as the timely delivery of the parts.

I took apart the dryer by unscrewing the top and the front, front comes off by just undoing the two top screws on the inside. I figured it was something to do with the rollers since the noise was ciclycal. The hardest part was to put the drive belt back on. It helps to have a second person for about 5 minutes.

Lifted top from dryer and fuses were in the back of drum just below heating coil. Used nut driver to remove heating coil to gain access to fuses and replaced them. Process was quick and easy. Diagram from this site made locating fuses elementary!

P.S. I have no certified experience in appliance repair.This was my first time ever and dryer works perfect.

I just removed 1 screw that held the safety thermostat in and replaced it. Then I removed the long screw that holds the heating element and the high limit fuse in place. Replaced the fuse, cleaned out the lint duct area. Closed the dryer lid and pluged it in, it worked fine.

rts came quickly & I got started. First, I unplugged the dryer and pulled it away from the wall about a foot. this was done so the top would have clearance when it was lifted up. Next, I removed the lint trap and then took the two screws under the lint trap door out. Then you use a screwdriver(flat blade) to release the top of the dryer. The release points are about 1-2 inches from the edge of dryer. Next pull the wire connector apart so the front can be removed. The connector is on the right side, front corner, facing the dryer. There are two hexhead screws near the top on both sides. Remove the and the front will come apart as you lift it slightly. Then you disengage the tub belt. Once this is done the tub can be lifted out and set aside/ take care to remember each things position as you take it apart, so you will not get confused when you reassemble. Now the solinoid assembley is easy to get to. Use a phillips screw driver and remove the two screws that retain the bracket that holds the solinoids in place.. Lift the bracket and remove one solinoid at a time. Pull the wire from it and plug the new, like solinoid to the wire and put it back in place. then do the other one. set the bracket back over the new kit and replace the screws to the bracket. Set the tub back in, rethread the belt to the drive wheel. Next put the front back on making sure the bottom part slips into the two sides of the dryer.Replace the hexhead screws on each side; plug the wire connector together. Now , pull the lid down into position and press into place. Replace the lint trap screws and replace the lint trap. Plug dryer up and we are done. Repossition the dryer to its original place. It really was not a hard job at all. Thank-you Susan for your help and expertise.

Followed the instructions and the repair went like clockwork, took less than an hour. I spent more time brushing and vacuuming old lint from the innards of the machine than I did doing the actual repair. Finished up $0.78 richer, too, from the change I found inside the machine.

Was a little hard getting at the idler pulley being it was behind the blower assembly, but it was the only draw back.

I watched an online video about how to replace a dryer belt & followed the directions. Placing the belt around the drum is easy but stringing it thru the pulley is a little difficult because the belt has tension. This takes a little effort but is doable. Dryer runs great now........Be sure to unplug appliance 1st........

Pretty much just followed the video - I'd never opened a dryer before, so I'd watch a step, pause and do it, then run the video a few more minutes, and repeat. These dryers are really extremely simple devices: just a heater, then a motor to spin the drum and run the fan (I think the same motor does both). So you loosen a couple of screws, pry the metal case open, and slip on the new belt. Done! I didn't keep track of time, but I'm psyched to have saved myself a $200 repair call! Standard delivery arrived in less than two days, just like they said it would.

Remove back panel, looking for access. upon reassembly dropped socket into lint trap. Dissemble again, also dissemble lint trap ducting, found it almost completely blocked by lint, clean and reassemble. Remove front panel and there is the problem of the broken belt. Try to look up online to no avail because I didn't have the proper machine ID, but I did find out where to look. Now with the right info ordered the part. Received in the post about 5 days. Upon reassembly I realized that the adjustor was laying in the bottom, picked up, cleaned inspected, OK, then needed to figure out where it goes, got it, then to figure out how it holds tension on belt. That took a few minutes, well maybe 10 then the old Ford light bulb came on, then installed the belt and adjuster. Replace front panel, slide back into place, hook up wiring and duct. Test, guess what folks it works.

I follow the instructions provided on the your web site, the instructions were very easy to follow and to the point. In all it easier than expected. your information regarding the probability that the indicated part will solve the problem are great! That gave me a good feeling about ordering the part from you. Thanks for your help.

I started by changing the part that had the highest percentage to solve this problem , the top three didn't work , the fourth part, the disposable thermostat, and the last one that could be done from the front worked.