WDF330PAHS1 Whirlpool Dishwasher - Instructions

Disconnected the damaged hose extension from the dishwasher outlet drain hose and the connection to the sink drain. Removed two clamps. One a spring clamp and the other a screw clamps. Connected the new extension hose with a spring clamp to the dishwasher outlet drain hose. Connected the other end to the sink drain with a screw clamp. Checked for leaks. Good to go!

Put in both a new element and thermostat. Did not fix problem. Using an ohm meter I did not measure any voltage to the thermostat. Suspect it’s a problem in the control unit, and decided to replace dishwasher.

Open door and remove 12 T15 torx screws. Note that the 4 along the top edge are longer than the 8 along the sides. Lift the door panel upwards to remove the panel. Remove 6 screws securing the soap dispenser and metal bracket. Unplug the cable on the right side by pressing down on the locking tab. Note the position of the black plastic sheet that covers the back of the dispenser, and the white insulator on the right side. open the door part way and press down on the release for the dispenser on the outside of the door. The dispenser can now be removed from the inside of the door. Install the new dispenser and snap in place. Put the metal bracket back in place with the insulators and secure with the 6 screws. Re-install the shorter screws first, then the longer ones across the top.

Put the kick plate under the dishwasher and screwed it in. Easy!

simply line up the new pin with the rectangular slot in the kick panel and metal panel behind, slide the pin in and turn it with a flat blade screw driver.
NOTE: the original pin was black. A black replacement part cost $29 plus shipping! A knock-off pin was only $6 plus shipping. I got the cheap one and colored it with a black Sharpee marker before installation.

Thanks to everyone for posting their experiences on changing the heater element. The most difficult part of the repair was getting the dishwasher out of the cabinet. I didn't know that I should disconnect the water line underneath the sink and this would make the removal easier. Also, because the copper water line going to the dishwasher was kinked, I ended up changing it with a flexible steel braided line.....much easier to install.

Once the dishwasher was out of the cabinet, I turned it over and easily removed the clips that held the heater element in.

I would definetly recommend people doing this repair themselves, it will save you a lot of money!!!!!

-Unplugged the dishwasher.
-Removed dish racks, filters and spray arms.
-removed drain pump and drain lines.
-unplugged turbidity sensor and power connectors.
-unlocked the 3 locking connectors, removed the pump and motor assembly.
- cleaned every component with soap and water.
- applied rinse aid to the motor and pump assembly gasket.
-placed pump and motor assembly into the correct position and had a helper hold the assembly down while I locked in the connectors.
-work backwards.

Removed top rack from dishwasher by removing retaining clips on roller track and slide top rack out of tracks. Placed top rack on table upside down and popped water manifold out and snapped new one in place. Install rack in reverse order of removal.
Note: Make sure there is no food debris clogging spray arm, that will give same symptom as well as a weak or clogged pump.

Replaced the strainer. This keeps the two sprayers clean/clear so they do not clog up. Dishes are cleaner now. Note : if your sprayers are clogged it is a long process to clear out the sprayers. Dishes will not be clean until your sprayers are all cleared.

Screwed the cap on to the rinse aid receptacle.

Very easy to twist off the old pump and replace with new part. Worked perfect after replacement! We just followed you tube instructions

The old filter simply unscrews and the new one screws in.

I took the valve off and actually hooked 110 volts to the vale and tried to blow through it and it would not let air pass through it. I replaced the the new valve in about 15 minutes and it works fine

Pull dishwasher out a few inches. Disconnect spring from plastic connector with long nose pliers. Remove connector. Replace friction sleeve. Replace connector.Reconnect spring to plastic connector. This completes repair.

I removed the upper dishrack easily by removing the end clips and sliding the tray out. Removal of the revolving sprayer was easy as it just clipped on to the bottom of the rack. The rack was not the rack that was ordered and I was informed that this was the correct rack for the dishwasher even though the description and picture was different that what I received. There were no instructions with the rack to explain how to attach the "flaps" that can go over lightweight dishes to keep them from flipping. Every way I tried to attach the flaps did not work. When I was able to attach one it would pop off if I raised the flap to place a dish underneath it. I finally gave up on the flaps and reinserted the rack onto the rails and put the end clips back in place. The rack works fine other than it is not the one that was described and was not the rack that I wanted.