KDTM504EPA2 Whirlpool Dishwasher - Instructions

Remove power source, then remove old power cord.Run new power cord through existing opening ang attach to existing power box on bottom o f dishwasher. Install electrical leads and device ground. Reinstall cabinet bottom. Check out operation by running a cycle. All ok!

followed directions, a kid could have done it,

Pulled the dishwasher out and took the two door balance links off and put the new ones on and attached to the spring. It was very quick and easy

Removing and installing the new part was fairly simple. We removed the water hose first since it is the easiest to see. We then removed the screw holding the part to the metal frame. We slid out the part out of the holder to remove the black hose and electric plug (it is like the old phone jacks). After it was completely off we plugged in the electric to the new part which was very easy since it can only go in one way. We slid the new part in place and attached the black hose. We attached the piece to the frame with the one screw and last we attached the gold (garden hose) connection. We turned on the water to look for any leaks then turned the power on and ran it through a partial rinse to be sure there were no leaks.

Easy. Part just snapped in and took all of about a minute. Now the top rack doe snot slide back and forth.

Pushed to be into place

I'm the maintenance supervisor at an apartment complex. While installing a new dishwasher for a tenant, I inadvertently cross-threaded the swivel connector to the fill valve. The valve was ruined and couldn't be repaired. I ordered a new valve (it was an OEM) and installed it. Simple switch out, plus the video from Parts Select showed I had done it right.

My 2 yr old sat on the dishwasher door while it was open. It snapped both the links on the door causing the dishwasher door to drop every time it was ajar. It was a real danger to the kids or to anyone else unaware of the door given its weight.

I ordered the part from Part Select based model and some of the posts that it was something you can do yourself. Park Select was outstanding as got the part next day and got direction from others (thank you). I did not have either side of the door working so no real gauge but finally understood how it worked once I did a search online for a picture.

Recommendation: if both links (rope) are broken, you will need to hunt down the springs on side/back of machine. The part with small hole connects to the spring, the other to the door. Make a reverse S with the rope through the pully system for tention. I did not initially do the reverse S and the part popped of the door once I closed it. Otherwise, easy thing to do and certainly do not need a repair person.....if you need picture, do a search on dishwasher door pully system

last time this piece broke, I called a tech and $150 to fix. I am not much of a do-it-yourselfer, but this was very easy. Removed to screws. I then pulled out dishawasher from cabinet. Removed plastic piece, replaced part, pushed dishwasher back and put in screws.

Easy, easy, easy. Appliances use to be built with metal parts that did not break as often.

based on advice here, concluded the problem was likely that the part "Valve-Inlt" was defective. Our dishwasher intake line is copper and had already developed a partial kink from sometime in the past, so I had to be careful. The final connection to the new part had to happen in place: very close to the floor and underneath, because I didn’t want to stress the copper line. Plus, the shutoff was defective, and it was always leaking while I connected. Awkward. As I was threading on, it started to look like it might be cross-threaded, so I stopped and reversed. Slid the washer back out and disconnected the drain line so I could tip the dishwasher u and inspect. It was going on cross-threaded. Not hard to happen on a metal to a plastic connection. To solve, I carefully made very small bends in the copper inlet line until when it would later be brought up underneath to connect to the inlet valve, it would be as perfectly aligned as possible. This worked. As I tightened, it went a little easier and the leak stopped. A good moment. Tightened a bit more, but didn’t want to overdo it as that can cause other problems. Now the moment of truth: let’s run it. DISHWASHER WORKED AGAIN. Runs fine now and we are glad to have it back. Was satisfying I could do this on my own. The advice and guides here made that possible. Thank you.

The hardest part was pulling the unit out. Ours required the electric to be disconnected. First turn off breaker, then disconnect electric, then remove the 2 screws in the sides that keep it in place (located on top for non-stone counter). Slide unit out. Next remove the spring and connect the loop from the link to the spring. The other end of the spring goes in the hole next to the rear leg. Pull the string so there is enough slack to loop the spring aroung both pulleys and then slide the end over the hook on the bottom of the door. Use the other side as a guide. Slide unit back, hook up electric, replace mounting screws. Turn on breaker.

The 2 parts snap together .

We pulled the unit out and were able to easily see where it broke. We replaced it relatively easy, pushed dishwasher back in; however, somehow the pump seal got broken in the process so now we have to replace the pump. This was totally unrelated to this repair - only can assume it happened when we pushed the unit back into place.

Disconnect top screws
Pull dishwasher out halfway
Notice how the other side is connected
Thread cord, use pliers to pull spring to connect.

Shut off elec. and water. remove bottom plate and 2 screws holding the unit to the counter top.
disconect elec wires to unit and remove water line.
Pull unit out from counter and replace cable to spring the same way as the unbroken side.
Slide unit back and reverse hookup.
My only problem was that the part they sent me was about a 1/2" shorter the the original and the door is hard to open.