KDPE334GBS0 Whirlpool Dishwasher - Instructions
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- Customer:
- JOHN from OJAI, CA
- Parts Used:
- W10727426
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
Orders not correct and minor mods needed.
Ordered p/n PS10057154, sold as a kit of TWO upper rack tine rows. I received one. Customer service issued a return tag and ordered a second kit, which again was supposed to be two rows. Replacement order arrived with just one. Fortunately, I had expected this and had not yet returned the first kit. Called customer service and told them not to expect the return of the first order.
This kit is sold as fitting several models of Whirlpool and KitchenAid dishwashers, which I verified that my KA was on the list. A minor installation problem occurred when I discovered that the upright tines of this kit don't have the exact same spacing as the KitchenAid originals. The upright tines need to be exactly half the distance between each of the crossbars on the rack below in order to install the three retaining clips found on each row. With the spacing of these tines, there wasn't quite enough room to install the clips. Fortunately, the retaining clips were manufactured with an excessive amount of shoulder on each one. Trimming off the excess material with a fine-toothed hacksaw blade made the clips narrow enough to be used without compromising their ability to hold the tine rows in place. I've used the machine several times now and the clips are holding everything in place as expected.
[img]https://i.ibb.co/9TQB3mC/clips.jpg[/img]
This kit is sold as fitting several models of Whirlpool and KitchenAid dishwashers, which I verified that my KA was on the list. A minor installation problem occurred when I discovered that the upright tines of this kit don't have the exact same spacing as the KitchenAid originals. The upright tines need to be exactly half the distance between each of the crossbars on the rack below in order to install the three retaining clips found on each row. With the spacing of these tines, there wasn't quite enough room to install the clips. Fortunately, the retaining clips were manufactured with an excessive amount of shoulder on each one. Trimming off the excess material with a fine-toothed hacksaw blade made the clips narrow enough to be used without compromising their ability to hold the tine rows in place. I've used the machine several times now and the clips are holding everything in place as expected.
[img]https://i.ibb.co/9TQB3mC/clips.jpg[/img]
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- Customer:
- Matthew from CHATHAM, VA
- Parts Used:
- W10703867
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Wrench set
Defective dishwasher heating element
Turned off water supply to the unit. Removed plastic cover at bottom front. I only had to disconnect the copper water line to slide the unit about 1/3 of the way out. I then was able to reach the wires, disconnect them and use a stubby box/open end wrench (5/8? don't remember for sure) to remove the plastic nuts. I then opened the door, removed the bottom basket and slipped the element right out. Installation of new part was reverse.
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- Customer:
- Glenn from FULSHEAR, TX
- Parts Used:
- WPW10546503
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Attachments from tray to upper rack adjuster broken
Upper tray removed and each rack adjuster removed and replaced one after the other. Only tool was screwdriver. Only knowledge was from the online videos. Only took 30 minutes or so. The repair could have been done more quickly if I wasn't fearful that the smaller plastic parts would break when pulled or pried away from the rack adjuster. The only mistake was not making sure the adjuster tabs were fully engaged in back and clicked in the front attachment.
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- Customer:
- paula from ASHEVILLE, NC
- Parts Used:
- WPW10531320
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
The drain Pump failed
Took the kick plate off without removing the the machine.
Reached in and turned the existing pump to loosen it. Then disconnected the wire.
Reversed the process to install the new pump.
Reached in and turned the existing pump to loosen it. Then disconnected the wire.
Reversed the process to install the new pump.
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- Customer:
- Nancy from BLOOMINGTON, IN
- Parts Used:
- W10537869
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Leaking dishwasher
Turned the dishwasher in its side. Used the video step by step. This is why we purchased from this site
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Dish rack slide arms losing ball bearings
Unscrewed mounting screws, pulled dishwasher out halfway, replaced arms, 4 screws each side .....very simple 30 min tops. Parts perfect and quick delivery!
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- Customer:
- Robert from Des Moines, IA
- Parts Used:
- 8269144A
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
Dish washer was very smelly.
After replacing garbage disposal. I referred to you video you sent me when i received the new replacement hose. That made it look very easy to install. Thank you for all your help and support.
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- Customer:
- Eladio from LOGAN, OH
- Parts Used:
- WPW10538166
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
Develeoped a leak on the bottom.
Pulled dishwasher out of compartment, removed all parts underneath. removed inner parts, removed pump assembly. Installed new pump assembly and grommet. Reassembled in reverse order, test ran and unit was operating normal and no leaks.
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Top rack kept coming off the left slide track
I followed the video and even though my dishwasher was slightly different from the one shown, everything worked well. I was lucky that I had enough clearance to pull the dishwasher away from the countertop far enough to make the repair, without having to remove any dishwasher wiring below. I replaced both side tracks, even though only the left side was broken.
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- Customer:
- Robert from PORT LUDLOW, WA
- Parts Used:
- W11177741, WPW10653840
- Difficulty Level:
- Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- More than 2 hours
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Water leaking around door and latch mechanisim seems to have failed
Still not sure it is repaired. Still have water leakage around upper edge of door on control data panel. We just experienced an issue with the auto drain system, the first since door seal repair and door latch replacement???? Is the latching mechanism suppose to secure the door?
If so it isn't?
Not a great success story. A new washer may be in the cards
If so it isn't?
Not a great success story. A new washer may be in the cards
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PartSelect Scammers
PartSelect intentionally shipped obsolete part that could not possibly fit a dishwasher. The part looked to be a rectangle door seal for a freezer/ref. You make it impossible to return the part. I find it interesting that you sent the correct install video and wrong part.
Suggestion: After you print a shipping label take a picture of the part and shipping label before it is boxed. The customer should not have to send you a picture of the wrong part and the serial number of the appliance for a refund. You did not need the serial number to ship it.
I will never use your company again William Dewberry
Suggestion: After you print a shipping label take a picture of the part and shipping label before it is boxed. The customer should not have to send you a picture of the wrong part and the serial number of the appliance for a refund. You did not need the serial number to ship it.
I will never use your company again William Dewberry
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- Customer:
- Cassie from RIVERDALE, CA
- Parts Used:
- WPW10546503, WPW10250162
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
Replacing broken adjuster housing cover.
Take out the upper dishwasher rack. Place the adjuster towards the back of the upper each place attachment clips to secure adjuster and the adjuster clips to the back of the housing. Check to back sure adjuster move up and down and click back into place. Your installation is complete. Good luck!
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- Customer:
- Dorothy from CLARKSVILLE, TN
- Parts Used:
- W10919676
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- More than 2 hours
This did not fix the rack issue
It was wrong part. Visual in diagram does not clearly show what needs to be replaced. Old part just broke so we do not know what needs fixing.
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- Customer:
- Curtis from PALM BAY, FL
- Parts Used:
- WPW10348411, WPW10190778, WP308685, WP304666, WP302868
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Relocating dishwasher into the new kitchen layout
In this case the dishwasher had already been installed for a few years. After removing it, we inspected it and saw it needed a bit of TLC. The transport wheels on the back were missing, making it harder to move around without scratching the tile and some of the original hardware was rusted or broken off. I looked up the parts easily here on PartsSelect using their parts breakdown diagrams and was glad to see what I needed was still available. We had a licensed plumber relocate the hot water line and drain for us to make things a bit easier.
A licensed electrician had also moved the power line over to the new location and left a wire sticking out of the bottom of the wall to hardwire the dishwasher in again. We decided to convert the dishwasher to be able to be plugged into a standard 20amp wall outlet instead. We had already purchased a kit with a nice long cord and strain-relief snap on plastic fitting that snapped onto the metal incoming power box on the bottom front of the dishwasher. Using the supplied wire nuts, etc., we connected the wires and ground wire to the proper wires from the dishwasher and ground lug. We put the dishwasher aside and then went to work on converting the power wire coming out of the bottom of the wall, to a conventional outlet. I am mentioning all this because in our first attempt we unfortunately put the receptacle a bit high off the floor and the new power cord plug end, stuck out and hit the back of the dishwasher so it would not go all the way in and was sticking out from under the counter top. I tried using one of those flat adapter cables, but even that still stuck out to far. So we ended up relocating the outlet box as low as we could on the wall and this allowed the plug to stick out into the opening area at the bottom rear area of the dishwasher so it could now be slid all the way in under the kitchen counter properly. I hope that bit of trial and error will save you some time if you ever decide to go the pluggable route too.
The new installation required the use of the dishwasher side mount brackets, so we had to purchase a replacement set of those, complete with the hardware to screw them down.
This project took a bit longer than planned due to the power plug problem, one which we will remember for any other similar appliance relocation projects, as well as the time to get our new parts in that we had to order, but other than that the rest went smoothly and the dishwasher was relocated successfully.
A licensed electrician had also moved the power line over to the new location and left a wire sticking out of the bottom of the wall to hardwire the dishwasher in again. We decided to convert the dishwasher to be able to be plugged into a standard 20amp wall outlet instead. We had already purchased a kit with a nice long cord and strain-relief snap on plastic fitting that snapped onto the metal incoming power box on the bottom front of the dishwasher. Using the supplied wire nuts, etc., we connected the wires and ground wire to the proper wires from the dishwasher and ground lug. We put the dishwasher aside and then went to work on converting the power wire coming out of the bottom of the wall, to a conventional outlet. I am mentioning all this because in our first attempt we unfortunately put the receptacle a bit high off the floor and the new power cord plug end, stuck out and hit the back of the dishwasher so it would not go all the way in and was sticking out from under the counter top. I tried using one of those flat adapter cables, but even that still stuck out to far. So we ended up relocating the outlet box as low as we could on the wall and this allowed the plug to stick out into the opening area at the bottom rear area of the dishwasher so it could now be slid all the way in under the kitchen counter properly. I hope that bit of trial and error will save you some time if you ever decide to go the pluggable route too.
The new installation required the use of the dishwasher side mount brackets, so we had to purchase a replacement set of those, complete with the hardware to screw them down.
This project took a bit longer than planned due to the power plug problem, one which we will remember for any other similar appliance relocation projects, as well as the time to get our new parts in that we had to order, but other than that the rest went smoothly and the dishwasher was relocated successfully.
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- Customer:
- Thomas from PHOENIX, AZ
- Parts Used:
- WPW10546503
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Left-side rack adjuster broke, so upper rack couldn't be used properly.
Per suggestions from other reviews, I looked for You Tube videos for replacing this part. The video I used was completely necessary, but moved way too fast, so required lots of stopping, rewinding and starting again. But I managed to get the old rack adjuster removed and the new one installed without too much trouble.
Then I tried installing it in the pull-out rail. The front connector on the new adjuster would not fit into the appropriate slot. Initially I thought maybe the part was defective, but determined that the dimensions were as accurate as my eye and tape measure could evaluate. Finally, I settled on the expedient of filing away at least 1/16" from one edge of the slot so that the connector would drop into place.
Not sure why this discrepancy existed but the problem appears to be resolved.
Then I tried installing it in the pull-out rail. The front connector on the new adjuster would not fit into the appropriate slot. Initially I thought maybe the part was defective, but determined that the dimensions were as accurate as my eye and tape measure could evaluate. Finally, I settled on the expedient of filing away at least 1/16" from one edge of the slot so that the connector would drop into place.
Not sure why this discrepancy existed but the problem appears to be resolved.
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