WDT710PAHW0 Whirlpool Dishwasher - Instructions

I closed the water at the tank and opened all the hot water faucets in the house thereby draining static water from the inlet hose at the valve. Then I unscrewed the inlet hose from the valve, unscrewed the valve body from the support bracket under the tub, unplugged the electrical plug from the valve body, and removed the outlet hose. I installed the new valve using the reverse sequence. Then I closed all the hot water faucets, turned on the hot water at the tank, and purged air from each of the faucets. I then started the dishwasher and ran it through a complete cycle, periodically checking it for leaks, and found none. Total time for uninstall and reinstall - about 30 minutes. Not bad for an 80 year old.

First, I checked the ripped box for damage to the dishrack. Fortunately, there was none. Then I looked for the instruction booklet. Unfortunately, there was none. And the parts bag was ripped and I did not know what was supposed to be in it. So, I rechecked the photo of the dishrack on the website and found that either parts were missing or the dishrack was different than illistrated. After a few moments of thought, I realized the latter was the case. I then figured I would have to use some deep thought to do the installation since neither the missing instruction booklet nor the unzoomable photo would help. So, I pulled out the tall thin thingamabob from the old dishrack and put it in the new one though it did not secure as tightly. Then I put the wheel units on just like the old one. What I could not immediately figure out was where the collapsible rack row was mounted. I eventually realized that the rod went into a hole in the wheel units and the latch mounted above one unit. I still have no idea where the two other tan clips go. Though the dishrack is different and thus requires different science to fill it, it appears to do the job.

Thanks for asking.

By the way, it was not blue.

I broke it accidentally while trying to get it off and it would either not spin or fall off. I simply removed it out of the box and put it on. 2 turns to the right and I was done!

It was a piece of cake, just slapped together and slid it into place!

Rubber friction sleeves on each side of the door provide resistance to prevent the door from quickly opening when unlatched. Over time the friction sleeve may crack and fail. Two friction sleeves are required for repair. Install a new sleeve on each side of the dishwasher door near the spring connector at the bottom.

Open dishwasher door.

Remove the screw from the left and right bracket at top of dishwasher door opening. Brackets secure the dishwasher to the countertop.

Gently pull the dishwasher forward to expose the door spring on each side of door at bottom.

Unhook the plastic spring connector from the left door spring hook by pulling the connector slightly forward and lifting from the door spring hook. Remove the old friction sleeve if still in place by sliding over the door connection hook. Discard the old sleeve.

Insert the new friction sleeve over the door spring connector hook and push until the friction sleeve is in position completely past the spring hook. Reconnect the plastic spring connector to the door hook.

Repeat for right side of door.

Close and latch the dishwasher door. Unlatch the door. The door should remain in the nearly closed position held in place by the friction sleeves.

Slide the dishwasher back to the original position under the counter top.

Insert the screws in the top brackets to secure the dishwasher.

lower wash arm cracked by spinning into items hanging out of bottom of basket. part twists and snaps right in. glue did not fix.

Recently bought a whirlpool dishwasher, the dishwasher was converted to a portable dishwasher and they did not use the cord application power cord so they machine was blowing our breaker, instructions were very simple and installation was easy!

Snap new track stop into place. Took a few minutes to figure out top/bottom and inside/outside, but no issues

The lower dish rack rolls directly out of the dishwasher without problem - there is no permanent attachment. The new rack comes as a kit, which includes the 4 required dish rack wheels (Part # 6 in the diagram). One part (only) from the original dish rack needs to be removed and re-installed on the new rack - the upper spray arm tower (Part #5 in the diagram). That is easily removed from the original rack with a 1/8 counterclockwise turn, to disengage the 'feet', and installed on the new rack with a 1/8 clockwise turn. The kit is designed to allow for use on multiple models, so there are 'extra' parts left over, after it is used for the DU8500XX-2 dishwasher. These can be discarded.

Pulled up old spray arm and snapped new on in place. Took less than a minute and no tools. Dishwasher is like new again.

Open the dishwasher door remove the utensil rack. Next remove all the remaining screws around the outside of the door. Close the door. Slightly lift up on the outside cover of the door, watch out for the wiring inside of the dispenser. Take the flat head micro screwdriver remove the two clips inside the dispenser and then the one main. Next remove the door sensor directly above it just to make the door cover to swing off to the side to make everything easy. Lift up the black flat remove the outside screws with a 6 mm socket push the dispenser back inside the dishwasher. Install and reverse directions don't forget to hook back up the wires.

Very easy to remove the broken one and just clip in the new one.

removed and installed cords with screw driver

After reading customer notes regarding the same problem I was having I ordered A new Heater Element & a High Limit Thermostat. I also ordered a Heating Element Nut and Rubber Washer in case I needed them. It took me quite some time to remove the dishwasher from under my counter. Once the unit was out and prepared to service it actually took only a few minutes to install the new Heater Element. I did't need the washer or extra Nut. I also decided to try the unit without replacing the thermostat. I cleared the diagnostics by pressing the "HEATED DRY, "NORMAL", "HEATED DRY", "NORMAL" buttons. After the controller reset the dishwasher was ready to run.

Unscrewed brackets from underneath counter that hold dishwasher in place. Pulled dishwasher out of cabinet to access door hinges (approximately 8 to 12 inches). Released springs from door hinge (not necessary to remove spring from hole in dishwasher frame). Did not have to remove old sleeve because they tear and fall off. Slipped sleeve over door hinge to groove where they sit on hinge. Note: pulling hinge away from dishwasher a little. helps to complete installation.
Reinstall spring over hinge and check that door will stay a partial open. Slide dishwasher back in place and install screws from bracket to underside of counter.
My dishwasher only had two screws under counter to hold in place. Some installations have screws at sides also.