IUD6100BB1 Whirlpool Dishwasher - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Joe from POQUOSON, VA
- Parts Used:
- W10518394
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
Broken Heating Element
I turned off the power to the dishwasher, removed the kick plate, raised the front levelers, disconnected the electric to the appliance, turned off the water supply to the appliance, disconnected the water supply, disconnected the drain system from the garbage disposal, unscrew the appliance from the countertop, then I remove the appliance from underneath the counter. I then tilted the appliance back and then in screwed the plastic retainers that held the heater element in place, removed the old one, replaced it with the new one in reversed the whole process
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- Customer:
- Raymond from Palmer, AK
- Parts Used:
- W10518394
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
water not heating
The repair was easy. Getting the unit to slide out from under the counter was more time consuming.
After water and power is disconnected, tip the unit over onto one side to gain access to bottom. Look for two white composite plastic posts (insulators) about 2" long each with a single wire inside. Remove the two wire connectors then unscrew the insulators from the old heating element using an adjustable wrench. Inside the box remove the two metal element supports and pull out the old element. Clean and dry the area in and around the openings where the new element will be re-inserted. Carefully place the new element into the holes with the included new rubber washers. Re-install the two metal element supports on the inside of box. On the bottom, re-install the two insulators to the ends of the element, do not to tighten too much to avoid over compressing the rubber washers which could cause premature cracking. Reconnect both wires and check continuity from the door mircro-switch (white-violet) lead to the (white-red) lead on Electronic Controller connector #1 (P6). The circuit thru the element should be good if the Multimeter reads 10-35 ohms. Put the unit securely back under the counter and run a test wash. Works fine now.
I do recommend, if don't know how to use a multimeter or are concerned about accessing the electronic control box; contact a professional.
After water and power is disconnected, tip the unit over onto one side to gain access to bottom. Look for two white composite plastic posts (insulators) about 2" long each with a single wire inside. Remove the two wire connectors then unscrew the insulators from the old heating element using an adjustable wrench. Inside the box remove the two metal element supports and pull out the old element. Clean and dry the area in and around the openings where the new element will be re-inserted. Carefully place the new element into the holes with the included new rubber washers. Re-install the two metal element supports on the inside of box. On the bottom, re-install the two insulators to the ends of the element, do not to tighten too much to avoid over compressing the rubber washers which could cause premature cracking. Reconnect both wires and check continuity from the door mircro-switch (white-violet) lead to the (white-red) lead on Electronic Controller connector #1 (P6). The circuit thru the element should be good if the Multimeter reads 10-35 ohms. Put the unit securely back under the counter and run a test wash. Works fine now.
I do recommend, if don't know how to use a multimeter or are concerned about accessing the electronic control box; contact a professional.
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- Customer:
- Sheila from FAYETTEVILLE, NY
- Parts Used:
- WP8565925
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Lost stop from one side of top rack. Rack could be pulled off track.
Looked at other side of top rack which still had the stop. Just had to orient the direction of the stop and push it firmly onto the rack arm. Took a couple tries, but it went in and locked. Works perfectly. Inexpensive and easy fix to to very annoying problem.
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- Customer:
- Edward F from CINCINNATI, OH
- Parts Used:
- W10872845
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
Dishwasher would not drain
After bailing out the unit, filled filter hole with a moderate amount of Dawn dish washing detergent. Ran dishwasher twice to remove all Dawn from the unit. Had to bailout the water (and suds) from the washer both times. After the dishwasher finally drained I inserted the new filter..
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- Customer:
- john from SANFORD, NC
- Parts Used:
- WPW10538166
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
I damaged the grommet when removing the recirc pump
repair went smooth for the grommet. suggest a small of vasoline to ease installation of grommet
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- Customer:
- Joan from Rockville, MD
- Parts Used:
- W10728160
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
The cap of a vertical tine in the dishwasher had come off, leaving an exposed, rusted and sharp top.
The old tine row came out easily and the new one was easy to pop into place. I was pleased that it was so easy to order a replacement part.
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- Customer:
- Jm from OSHKOSH, WI
- Parts Used:
- WP8268961
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Friction sleeve had torn, resulting in dishwasher door 'falling' when opening.
I unscrewed the dishwasher from the counter (two screws under the countertop), and pulled it out about a foot so I could access the friction sleeve. I used a needle nosed pliers to slip a spring latch off the door. Then I slipped the new friction sleeve on and reattached the spring. Tested the door. Success! Super easy. About 5 minutes of work.
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- Customer:
- Robert from Beaufort, SC
- Parts Used:
- 8269144A
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers
Drain hose leaking
I did not relize that the drain hose was in two parts. Naturally I ordered the wrong half. So after I relized my mistake, I re-ordered the correct part. Once the correct part was received the repair was easy and went well.
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- Customer:
- Fred from Kernersville, NC
- Parts Used:
- 8269144A
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
old hose possible leakage
put new hose on, very easy.
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- Customer:
- Brian from Marion, IA
- Parts Used:
- WP8533380
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Couldn't find the part anywhere, but...
PartSelect found the right part for me on the first try. I had scoured the web looking for this particular drying agent cap. Even Sears said I'd have to order the entire dispenser assembly - $$$!
PartSelect found just the cap I needed at a much better price.
Fantastic service. Shipping was faster than promised. I can't say enough good things about them!
PartSelect found just the cap I needed at a much better price.
Fantastic service. Shipping was faster than promised. I can't say enough good things about them!
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- Customer:
- Greg from Lebanon, CT
- Parts Used:
- W10518394, WPW10477552
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers
Dishwasher wouldn't work
Looked under machine, saw wire going to heater was burned off.Seal on heater failed, water leaked onto terminal, shorted and burned, ruined plastic terminal nut.Replaced heater and wire terminal, and nut, took minutes, works great.
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- Customer:
- Brian from DOYLESTOWN, PA
- Parts Used:
- W11175771, WPW10195536
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Dishwasher would not fill with water
The water valve float lever was broke. So I replaced that and the water level switch. Probably didn’t have to replace switch. Very easy!!
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- Customer:
- Ron from CAPE CORAL, FL
- Parts Used:
- WPW10224430
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Detergent and Rinse Dispenser door latch completely worn out.
I am NOT an appliance technician. I am simply a somewhat handy homeowner. Removal of outer door panel requires removal of two screws from inside the top of the door assembly at the latch, as well as all of the obvious mating screws from around the perimeter of the inside of the door assembly. Use a #15 torx driver bit. Pull top of panel out (away from the machine) by maybe two inches, then lift the outer panel up to clear the bottom end of it from the lower positioning brackets. DO NOT lever the top of the panel outward. Keep it close to the inner door. It may take bit of an upward tug to dislodge. Careful here - the outer panel will simply fall free. Two wire pigtails that are connected to components on the inner door are short, so be careful not to strain them after dislodging the outer panel. One is connected to the dispenser. Disconnect both as to provide good clearance for the component replacement. The main wire harness is of sufficient length as to not cause a problem. The six 3/16 hex head screws holding the dispenser in place are easy to remove. There are two small sheet metal tabs that keep the device in place after the screws are removed, but a rectangular mounting frame or bezel will come off, along with the little black curtain that protects the unit. The tabs are at upper left and lower right at the perimeter of the opening in the inner panel. They must be levered gently as to allow the dispenser to push inward for removal. After removal, spend some time cleaning the inner surface of the inner panel as to ensure that the new device will make a watertight contact when fastened in place. Bend the tabs slightly back to an inward position, and install the new dispenser with the socket and motor to your left as you look at it from outside the machine. It clicks in to place and stays put. The bezel mounts only one way (in terms of being upside down) and the flat surface must be toward the inner door. Re-positioning the little black curtain is tricky but if you follow the marks in the material from the previous mount it should work out OK. Tighten the screws evenly as to ensure a good seal. Move the outer cover closer and reconnect the two plugs. Use an object to wedge the inner door open by a few inches, and lift the front panel such that you can position it and slide it back down on the inner panel as to re-engage the lower holding brackets. This keeps the bottom of the panel in place during the reassembly. Now for the fun part... The upper end of the outer panel has to be positioned just right against the inner panel in order to seat the two long screws that straddle the latch assembly from the inside. You'll need clamps, or two people. There's a flat rubber seal on the top edge of the inner door. See that it is seated properly, and then that it becomes covered by the outer panel. If one person firmly holds the panels precisely in position, then the other person can install the screws to a point of being mildly snug. The other two longer screws go in the top-most holes at the upper/outer corners of the door assembly. Place them next. From there, you can carefully replace all the rest of the screws. Only after all of the screws are in place should you make all of them tight. You're done.
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- Customer:
- Thomas from WEST WARWICK, RI
- Parts Used:
- WPW10348269
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Dishwasher would not drain. Pump was jammed with broken glass .
Turn off breaker to dishwasher.
Remove lower basket.
Drain any water using a wet vac.
Remove bottom cover plate. Should be 2 plastic screws using flat head screwdriver.
Should be able to reach pump. Turn counter clockwise to remove.
Disconnect plug wire on pump.
Install new pump by turning clock wise.
Reattach wire plug.
Run a wash cycle with empty dishwasher and check for leaks.
Replace cover plate.
Done.
Remove lower basket.
Drain any water using a wet vac.
Remove bottom cover plate. Should be 2 plastic screws using flat head screwdriver.
Should be able to reach pump. Turn counter clockwise to remove.
Disconnect plug wire on pump.
Install new pump by turning clock wise.
Reattach wire plug.
Run a wash cycle with empty dishwasher and check for leaks.
Replace cover plate.
Done.
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- Customer:
- Derek from ROCKFORD, MI
- Parts Used:
- WPW10348269
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers
Dishwasher Not Draining
The video included with this part is perfect. Unplug the dishwasher, take off the front trim piece, remove the drain hose from the pump, unclip the power, press the little clip that holds the pump in while turning it counter clockwise to remove. Then just do that in the opposite order to put the new one in. Just make sure you hear it click when you twist the new one on so you know the clip has engaged. Super easy.
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