WDT720PADM2 Whirlpool Dishwasher - Instructions

After replacing the door seal and the dishwasher still leaked a lot of water out the bottom of the door, I read posts by a couple of other DIY who said the lower spray arm can split at the seam and cause this. One post noted it is very difficult to determine if this is the problem, that you may have to take the blade of a screwdriver and try to pry the seam apart gently to see if a gap does appear with very little force being applied. If so, then just imagine what happens when that very hot water makes that plastic more flexible and then the seam opens and forces waves of water against the lower door. I could see a small seam split using that strategy and when I replaced the spray arm, my leak stopped. I don't regret replacing the door seal as it had a couple of small tears and hard water deposits all over it, so it was time to do that even though it was not the culprit for the extensive leak. The arm is SO EASY to replace, just twist the plastic nut under it and it pops right off. Put the new one on and twist the nut the other way and it secures it.

The lower dish rack rolls directly out of the dishwasher without problem - there is no permanent attachment. The new rack comes as a kit, which includes the 4 required dish rack wheels (Part # 6 in the diagram). One part (only) from the original dish rack needs to be removed and re-installed on the new rack - the upper spray arm tower (Part #5 in the diagram). That is easily removed from the original rack with a 1/8 counterclockwise turn, to disengage the 'feet', and installed on the new rack with a 1/8 clockwise turn. The kit is designed to allow for use on multiple models, so there are 'extra' parts left over, after it is used for the DU8500XX-2 dishwasher. These can be discarded.

After replacing garbage disposal. I referred to you video you sent me when i received the new replacement hose. That made it look very easy to install. Thank you for all your help and support.

Pulled dishwasher out of compartment, removed all parts underneath. removed inner parts, removed pump assembly. Installed new pump assembly and grommet. Reassembled in reverse order, test ran and unit was operating normal and no leaks.

Turned the dishwasher in its side. Used the video step by step. This is why we purchased from this site

My husband did this. He turned the dishwasher upside-down, disconnected the wires,and unbolted the heater.He put in the new heater (bolted,wired) and tested the current. Voila!

Could not take apart the upper rack on my whirlpool dishwasher to replace its wheels to transport its upper rack. The received parts did not match the old ones. Called parts and they suggested these new parts remanufactured and changed from the old ones but they had not been notified. Brought to professional mechanics and they figured it out. Bullshit parts company!!

After reading customer notes regarding the same problem I was having I ordered A new Heater Element & a High Limit Thermostat. I also ordered a Heating Element Nut and Rubber Washer in case I needed them. It took me quite some time to remove the dishwasher from under my counter. Once the unit was out and prepared to service it actually took only a few minutes to install the new Heater Element. I did't need the washer or extra Nut. I also decided to try the unit without replacing the thermostat. I cleared the diagnostics by pressing the "HEATED DRY, "NORMAL", "HEATED DRY", "NORMAL" buttons. After the controller reset the dishwasher was ready to run.

Watched a video and seen how easy it was to repair. Just disconnect the power, water and return drain. two bolts and replace element . The difficult part was removing and replacing the dishwasher...piece of cake.

Remove power source, then remove old power cord.Run new power cord through existing opening ang attach to existing power box on bottom o f dishwasher. Install electrical leads and device ground. Reinstall cabinet bottom. Check out operation by running a cycle. All ok!

1. Open dishwasher door, to access the screws holding dishwasher to cabinet.... remove these screws.
2. May need to shut water off and unscrew water line and waste line (if they aren't long enough because you will need to pull dishwasher out.
3. Unplug electricity
4. Pull dishwasher all the way out... probably need to disconnect the water and waste lines
5. crescent wrench to unscrew the plastic screws in back
6. Disconnect two wires going to element
7. Replace element... reverse steps
8. Not too bad at all
9. Part Select is Awesome !!!!

First i turned off the water and the power, then removed the two screws to the access panel under the door. Then remove 1 screw to the electrical box and removed the wire nuts and pulled the cable out of the box. Then disconect the water supply which is up front, but very little room to work. I didn't have to diconnect the drain hose because it was long enough for me to pull out the machine. After removing to screws that hold the machine to the counter you can pull it out. Remove 2 wire from the terminals of the heat coil. Unscrew the plastic nuts from the washer and remove. Assemble in reverse order and check for leaks. I tested the old element as well as the new element for resistance before installing.

followed directions, a kid could have done it,

removed unit from cabinet disconnected water and drain lines replaced heater very easy to do it took more time to remove unit from under counter than replace heater piece of cake..

Replaced the pump.That wasn't the problem --- if I had it to start over, I'd pull the drain hoses and run the dishwasher to see what water is flowing where. I had a clogged drain --- and maybe something else. Still working through the details.