WDP370PAHB0 Whirlpool Dishwasher - Instructions

thought it could be due to the overfill control switch,so ordered one and replaced one in the washer. However, it did not solve the problem. Having a repair company coming to look at the dishwasher. Tipped the washer on its back and switch was readily accessable. Only had to open plastic covering over the switch, disconnect the wires and install new switch and reconnect the wires.

Replacement parts from factory installed using u tube support video


Also replaced stop ends for top rack by removing old clip in to push down and lined up to secure in slots at end of rack, notice new plastic parts are installed by pushing hardware into slots downward until they clip into place

Did the repair, but needed one extra step not described in video:

I followed the directions on the PartSelect Youtube video - very helpful! I do believe the heating element was the original culprit, as it had a "burn" area about the size of a dime that caused it to almost break into two parts. Obviously a point of failure.

BUT - after replacement, it still did not solve the problem of the dishes not drying.

After much web searching, I tried the diagnostic mode on the dishwasher, and that did a hard reset of the logic board and FIXED the problem.

So in all, it required both a new heating element AND a hard reset via diagnostic mode.

First I got online to troubleshoot issue to save mysel from a service call. One of the first UTube videos, a young man said usually the main issue was the lever. He pushed down on the floater. If it didn't click, than the lever below needed to be replaced. Most important to turn off the circuit breaker before beginning the repair. I got on whirlpool.com, Part Select, ordered the lever, which was under $10. And once delivered, was able to switch out the old lever with the new replacement. Part Quote video took me through the process step by step. The lever package was marked that usually it was only 2% of the time that replacing the lever fixed the issue. Of course, I was thrilled, my dishwasher was up and running again. Thank you.

Took out old rack by twisting the rack supports. Used old supports because in good shape. Removed the wand from old rack and placed on new rack. Then replaced the supports. Worked great.

As washer had been in place for several years, decided to go for new arms rather than clean the originals. Simple twist of the wrist to remove and another twist to install each new one. Slick as a whistle. Seem to work just fine.
Thank you,
EG

Put in both a new element and thermostat. Did not fix problem. Using an ohm meter I did not measure any voltage to the thermostat. Suspect it’s a problem in the control unit, and decided to replace dishwasher.

Only one friction sleeve was broken. So I pulled out the dishwasher to see how the one on the other side went on. It was very easy to replace and I replaced both. Unit works fine now.

Took old one off , installed new one!!

Thanks to everyone for posting their experiences on changing the heater element. The most difficult part of the repair was getting the dishwasher out of the cabinet. I didn't know that I should disconnect the water line underneath the sink and this would make the removal easier. Also, because the copper water line going to the dishwasher was kinked, I ended up changing it with a flexible steel braided line.....much easier to install.

Once the dishwasher was out of the cabinet, I turned it over and easily removed the clips that held the heater element in.

I would definetly recommend people doing this repair themselves, it will save you a lot of money!!!!!

-Unplugged the dishwasher.
-Removed dish racks, filters and spray arms.
-removed drain pump and drain lines.
-unplugged turbidity sensor and power connectors.
-unlocked the 3 locking connectors, removed the pump and motor assembly.
- cleaned every component with soap and water.
- applied rinse aid to the motor and pump assembly gasket.
-placed pump and motor assembly into the correct position and had a helper hold the assembly down while I locked in the connectors.
-work backwards.

1. Shut off water valve
2. disconnect water hose(wrench-adjustable)
3. Disconnect drain hose (screwdriver)
4. Pull dishwasher out from under counter
5. Put down towel to soak up residual water that drains out of dishwasher
6. lay dishwasher face down; electronics is located underneath dishwasher.
7. locate faulty drain pump
8. remove electrical connector from drain pump by first pressing on connector retention tab with screwdriver while sliding connector loose.
9. twist drain pump body while using screw driver to depress drain pump retention tab.
10. remove old drain pump body and insert and twist new drain pump body into old location (use screw driver to assist retention tab engagement)
11. attach electrical connector.
12. Return dishwasher to upright position, slide it under the counter (with its cotton cover); reconnect hoses AND turn water supply back on (make sure you remember to turn the water supply back on)

I have a new faucet so I remove the screen then I used an extender ring put on your adapter an got the washer to run.

Replaced the strainer. This keeps the two sprayers clean/clear so they do not clog up. Dishes are cleaner now. Note : if your sprayers are clogged it is a long process to clear out the sprayers. Dishes will not be clean until your sprayers are all cleared.

Pull dishwasher out a few inches. Disconnect spring from plastic connector with long nose pliers. Remove connector. Replace friction sleeve. Replace connector.Reconnect spring to plastic connector. This completes repair.