DU940QWDG6 Whirlpool Dishwasher - Instructions

Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you

Simply removed deflectors and gasket, replaced all , took all of 5 mins. workes great now.

I first removed the old part. when i removed the old part i could not get the conector piece off when i when to get a new one they told me i should replace the copper tubing with the more flexable tubing because the copper tubing can kink up and possibly break from the kinking. so i screwed the inlet valve on i put teflon tape on the all the threads of the conector piece screwed it into the new inlet valve with and adjustable wrench then i conected the new tubing, and tightend it down with the wrench i slowly turned the water back on to cheak for leaks. When i saw there were no leaks i turned the water on the rest of the way pushed the dishwasher back in and screwed it into place an i was done.

After pulling the dishwasher out from under the cabinet, I found it underneath near the back right side. I disconnected the old thermostat, unscrewed the clamp holding it into place, put the new thermostat in, screwed it back in and replaced the two plugs. Then I pushed the dishwasher back into place, and it initially didn't work until I found an online forum that was able to identify the reset command for my dishwasher (for the WDT710PAYM4, press any three buttons in a sequence of 1 2 3 1 2 3 1 2 3. After completing that all the lights lit up, and I shut the door leaving it for half an hour) Once the reset finished, the heated dry worked like it was suppose to.

actually my wife did the repair. she unsrewed the water sprayer and removed it, then unscrewd the star key screws and then replaced the seal. she put everything back the way it was and it is now ready to use and we no longer have the problem.
just a suggestion...if you take some baking soda and some vinager you can clean the drain out. just simply poor in the soda and then the vinager.and it will fiz cleaning your drain.

Pulled off the old valve using a crescent wrench and screw driver. The replacement part was a 100% exact match. Slapped on the new valve and that baby was water tight. $50 on a new valve is a lot better than $500 for a new washer.

Partselect.com was so easy to use and find the right part. Way more helpful than whirlpool's site, but that's not surprising seeing as they have an "authorized repair technician" page.

Thanks Partselect.com!

The cap.nozzle is critical in transferring water to the
upper wash tray in the "heavy wash" cycle only. If this part is defective, simply unscrew it by hand and install the new one by hand in seconds. This
part is inactive in the "light wash" cycle.

Look for deteriation in the black rubber area of the
cap. nozzle.

Ordering and tracking the shipment was a breeze,
everything was very easy to do !!!!

first I removed lower basket. then removed lower sprayer attached to pump housing by unscrewing the cap by hand. the I removed the pump cover . there were six alan screw two of them were missing causing the failure of the seal spraying solution at the door. replaced the pumpseal working backwards until everthing was replaced.

The old tine row came out easily and the new one was easy to pop into place. I was pleased that it was so easy to order a replacement part.

Washed the edges good and clean to remove old tape that was holding the old panels. Slid in the new ones and found that the retaining strip would not work without replacing the inner strip. I didn't want to order this $53 dollar plastic strip so I squeezed a couple of rubber pieces into the bottom of the side edges to hold the top panel. Placed the retaining strip in place and used a long strip of black duct tape at this bottom edge to hold it all. It works and the new panels make the dish washer look close to new,the black duct tape hardly shows. This works good for my 10+ year old dishwasher until it is replaced with one that has a better door design.

The easiest way to change this out is to remove the access panel(like the one you purchased) and the metal brace that supports it to the bottom metal access panel. To do this, REMOVE the screws in between the door and access panel. Step 2: LOOSEN screws that connect the metal braces together. You do not need to remove them completely as the middle brace slides up. You should now have the panel and brace together in your hands. Step 3: Using a flat screw driver pry (and I mean pry!) the retainers out of the catch. At this point breaking the old plastic is a better option than bending the metal! Once removed, your ready to swap out the front cover of the panels and put'er back!! Good Luck!

I followed the video available on partselect.com and was easily able to follow step by step the process of removing and reinstalling a new Drain and Wash Impeller and Check Ball.

Turned off electricity. Removed the interior door cover. Removed door switch. Replaced switches & reversed process. By the way - I am a woman & diagnosised, ordered part & fixed it myself - I have no experience in this field. THANKS for all your information on your site.

This is the second time I have replaced a rack. You just pop on the new rollers and you're good to go!

All I had to do was remove old door panel and retainer and I replaced with the new.
PartSelect were great. I highly recommend you guys.