WDF120PAFT0 Whirlpool Dishwasher - Instructions

Removed unit from counter. Replaced element.

I remodeled my kitchen with new cabinets. In order to better utilize cabinet space, I located the dishwasher away from the sink, which means that I had to have a longer drain hose. The store I purchased the dishwasher from didn't have a longer hose, so I went online and found it on this website. Thanks for the quick shipment. I ordered it using standard delivery and received it in less than three days. I have book marked this website for future use.

Using a Torx screwdriver, I removed the fasteners holding the control panel/latch section of the door on the dishwasher. I tested the high limit thermostat with a multimeter. Just two terminals, one being power in, the other power out. The part had what I have heard call a "high resistance open". In other words, the power was not getting from "A" to "B". Power in - not out. After cutting power to the unit, I removed the part (just pull it out of the retaining clip and pull the terminals from the part). After receiving the part...by the way, really fast delivery...I reconnected the part (it doesn't matter which wire goes where), pushed the part back into the retaining clip, replaced and fastened the control panel, then restored power to the unit. Runs like new.

it was just a matter of snapping the new assembly in place.

put new one in

The fault code suggests a problem with the washer's ability to maintain water temp. This could be caused by a failure of the tempurature sensor module, safety over-temp thermostat, or the heating element. First, I disconnected AC power at the Mains panel. I then verified that the heating element was indeed at fault by removing the dishwasher and disconnecting the leads to the heating element in the rear of the unit. I set a multi-meter to resistance and measured the element and found that it was electrically open, thus proving it was the part needing replacement. I then tested the replacement element and verified it showed low resistance. (Good). I then loosened the plastic retaining nuts with an adjustable wrench, removed the old element and replaced it with the new. The nuts were then re-installed and torqued with enough force to create a leak-tight seal as verified by pouring a gallon of water in the washer. I reconnected the leads and slid the dishwasher back into place and secured it to the counter with screws. I then turned power back on at the AC Mains panel.

I put this unit in about 3 years ago and the brackets broke at the crease and the dishwasher fell forward. Found the right bracket and when it arrived looked a match. Checked link to video showing how to properly install the brackets. The original manufacturer never stated that the tab that goes through the frame is supposed to be bent 90 degrees to prevent the bracket from coming out. Thank you PartSelect for that video because I would probably end up ordering brackets again in a few years.

twist filler hose assembly to the side and slide hose in. place clamps on hose and attach to water supply and valve.

Turned off water to dishwasher and disconnected hot water and drain hoses. Removed to side screws and kick panel and pulled dishwasher from under counter. Removed old drain hose and fed the new one over to the drain. Reconnected the hot water and new drain hose. Pushed dishwasher under cabinet and screwed to cabinets. Ran the dishwasher and checked for leaks. Replaced kick panel.

I removed old hose and replaced it with a new one and reinstalled the dishwasher.

Solution was very simple with the side mounting bracket kit, the only problem was somehow one of the brackets was damaged out of the box . There's a slight off-set on the bracket to allow it to fit properly next to the dishwasher but this one had been flatten out. Had to have happened before going into the shipping box because they were very well protected with bubblewrap. Also, brackets are fairly heavy gage metal so it would have taken some amount of force to do this. Fortunately I was was able to bend it back into a useable shape. It wasn't perfect to look at but because it's mounted behind the side of the dishwasher it didn't matter as long as it worked.

Installed the rubber grommet and the door was fixed.Wish the product was made to lasts,second time in three years the part had to be replaced.

Easy as pie...bought the full arm spray from partselect.com. Scraped the melted plastic off the heating element with ease. Locked the new arm spray into position, and we were back in business. It was that simple.

I had to pull the appliance out from under the cupboard, remove the bottom dish rack, go to the back of the dishwasher and remove the two plastic nuts and the two wires from the heater, then remove the heating element from the inside of the appliance and reverse the order. The dishwasher works fine now.

I simply disconnected the power line to the dishwasher and pulled it out enough to install the mounting brackets. The installation manual that came with the dishwasher described how to install the brackets and I simply followed directions.