GLB14BBANA0 Whirlpool Dishwasher - Instructions

Removed old gasket, cleaned track thoroughly, then followed instructions from video on Part Select order form. Instructions very clear and precise. Getting the new gasket was a little tedious at the corners but take your time and work the gasket with your fingers as shown on the video.

It was easy to remove the old parts by using a screwdriver to push in “tabs” that kept retainer clips in place. Once removed, it was a matter of easy assembly in reverse and then re-clip. It became clear that the problem was because a few tabs that click into the sliding track and worn to the point where they no longer retained a tight connection to the track causing the upper rack to tilt with weight to front or back. Sure, the parts are a bit pricey but not when compared to a repair visit or a new KitchenAid which otherwise was functioning perfectly.

Hardest part was figuring out how to release and remove upper rack as mine did not match the instructions. After that is was tricky but not overly difficult. The instructions on-line did not make sense, but it all was fairly intuitive process. Take some before pictures, lol. Dishwaswasher works great.

repair went smooth for the grommet. suggest a small of vasoline to ease installation of grommet

I did not relize that the drain hose was in two parts. Naturally I ordered the wrong half. So after I relized my mistake, I re-ordered the correct part. Once the correct part was received the repair was easy and went well.

Unplug dishwasher and slide it out from under cabinet. Remove old broken link (a heavy string between two plastic parts) and replace with new one. Slide dishwasher back and plug it in. Very easy and no tools required.

put new hose on, very easy.

I removed and reinstalled the new gasket per the video instructions, but I found the corners to be much harder to install than indicated. I finally used a large, flat, dull screwdriver to carefully push the gasket all the way in, and used my fingers to feel whether the gasket was all the way in. I figured if the gasket wasn't all the way in, I would have a leak at the bottom of the door because the top of the gasket would stick out farther than the bottom, which is exactly what the original symptoms were. Perhaps I didn't need a new gasket? There was no visible damage. Pushing in the corners of the original gasket may have fixed it, but the new gasket worked perfectly! Thanks, Part Select!!

Not a difficult repair, but made more difficult than it should have been by KitchenAid's decision to attach the track from the outside,rather than the inside. Remove the top and bottom racks (top rack just lifts off its tracks). After turning off power, remove the trim panel below the door, then open the door and undo the screws holding the tabs at the top where the dw is attached to the underside of the countertop. Lower the adjustment legs at the bottom front with an adjustable or sized end wrench. Assuming enough slack in the supply and drain hoses and power supply line, just pull the dishwasher about halfway out which will give access to the bolts holding the track mounts. You'll have to pull back the insulation to access the bolts. Then with a nut driver or socket wrench remove the bolts, put the new track in place and bolt in. Actual replacement takes less than five minutes. All the prep work to get to the mounting bolts is most of the work. If you have to disconnect the hoses or power it's a bit more, but I didn't have to do that. I made the mistake of only ordering the one track that failed (outraged that I have to replace this after only 5 years or so and too cheap to buy both), but in retrospect, I can see that I should have bought both. The opposite side is not in great shape and will need to be replaced at some point.
Not a difficult repair-well within most people's skill level. But really KitchenAid - either design the track to last longer or make it easy to replace without pulling the dw out!

Remove entire top rack and place on a large flat work surface. A small screwdriver is needed to release several plastic clips holding the upper drawer slider brackets and manifold in place. Carefully pry the clips free of their mounting holes and remove the bracket. Take some time to study how things are held together before removing anything since one plastic clip is closely affected by the others. Without pictures, and a video, it's really difficult to put into words. I must stress, do not force anything. When disassembling, use the opposite side to as a visual aid to reassemble.

Was easy to do but would recommend getting the 4 bolts that hold both racks in. The ones on the left side had rusted and hard to remove and reuse

First I got online to troubleshoot issue to save mysel from a service call. One of the first UTube videos, a young man said usually the main issue was the lever. He pushed down on the floater. If it didn't click, than the lever below needed to be replaced. Most important to turn off the circuit breaker before beginning the repair. I got on whirlpool.com, Part Select, ordered the lever, which was under $10. And once delivered, was able to switch out the old lever with the new replacement. Part Quote video took me through the process step by step. The lever package was marked that usually it was only 2% of the time that replacing the lever fixed the issue. Of course, I was thrilled, my dishwasher was up and running again. Thank you.

Ordering the part was very easy. It shipped fast and delivered over 3 days. It fit perfectly

I simply removed the melted spray arm, then set the new spray arm in place, twisted the built-in securing nut (clockwise to its stop), and it worked without any problems.

The top and bottom parts of the lower wash arm were separating. This caused water to spray out the ends of the wash arm and come out the front of the dishwasher. In addition this water was not spraying upward resulting in dishes not getting cleaned. Took me a while to figure this out but the repair was simple.