DU1050XTPS1 Whirlpool Dishwasher - Instructions

Sears could not supply us with the replacement cap for the dishwasher. We were saved by being able to get the cap here on your web page.Your web sight is like going into the garage and finding the part you saved up for many years that you knew you would need down the road.

This site is wonderful..., thank you. Especially thanks to Nanette's detailed experience. The thing that gave me the most problem (and apparently Nanette, as well) was removing the lower round cover of the chopper assembly. Finally, some one on the internet identified the trick...put needle nose pliers in the screw-hole and pull-away. It came right out. Wish I could acknowledge the source but now can't find it.
Actually, the check valve was good, but I replaced it anyway. It was 10 times the trouble to replace than the drain pump. Wish I had started with the drain pump. By removing the drain hose, I stuck my finger in the hole and discovered the problem: the impeller was off of the pump and lying in the bottom of the drain. It was a simple thing to replace the pump. Press down on the locking mechanism and turn it to the left. When it was off, I could see that the check valve was in place and not a problem. (Of course by that time, I had already replaced it.) Good luck.

To empty the water in the dishwater basin, I pushed the cancel button and closed the door. I then turned the electrical breaker to the off position that supplies electricity to the dishwasher. I confirmed the power was off by attempting to start the dishwaser. I removed the metal plate between the dishwater door and the floor by removing the two screws. I removed the two screws that connect the top of the dishwasher to the underside of the countertop. I shut the water valve that supplies hot water to the dishwasher (mine was located under the sink). I disconnected the drain hose (plastic) by using pliers to loosen the clamp the holds the hose on the outlet of the drain pump (drain pump is much smaller than the pump that needed replacement). A towell is handy to soak up the water that comes out the hoses. I loosened the nut on the water supply hose (this was difficult because of lack of room)using a wrench and pliers. I opened the door on the metal box that houses the wire nuts for the electrical connection to dishwater, and I removed the wire nuts and the screw for the ground wire. Once the white, black, and gound wires were disconnected, I could pull the dishwater out. I also had to pull the drain hose out from the clips on the side of the washer to pull the dishwasher out into the middle of the kitchen floor. I flipped the dishwasher on its back. I removed the single bolt that held the broken pump motor to the dishwasher, and then the motor twisted counterclockwise and I pulled it out. The pump shaft would not turn freely with my pliers, so I knew the motor was broken. I removed the pump end (impeller) from the dishwasher by tapping it with my screwdriver. The impeller end came out along with a metal screen. The metal screen was 50% plugged, so I cleaned it and put it back in place. I wet the gasket on the new pump motor and slid it back in place while rotating clockwise and locking it in place with the tabs. I replaced the bolt that holds the motor in place and reversed the repair procedure to re-install the dishwasher. Be sure to run the dishwasher and look for any leaks. The last step is to replace the metal plate between the floor and door. While I had the dishwasher pulled out, I discovered another problem with the pulleys and strings that prevent the heavy door from flopping down, but I won't include this repair. The pump and motor must have been failing for some time because the dishwasher is much quieter now and the dishwasher is much faster. I am sure the plugged screen didn't help either.

removed both upper and lower racks. removed lower spray arm(left hand thread) removed "water delivry tube and upper spray arm. removed torx screws on pump cover. removed inner chopper cover. Chopper assy had come apart and was full of food crud. cleaned out and installed new chopper assy. kind of tricky don't force it. reassembled. tested OK.could tell sound of more forceful water pressure

First: Turn power to the Dish washer OFF, then remove the two panels at the bottom of the dishwasher.
Two: remove the Door face panel for easier access to the inlet-Valve.
Three: remove screw that holds Inlet-valve bracket.
Four: slide Inlet valve bracket left and back to get out of slots.
Five: Holding the Inlet-valve forward loosen and remove water line (copper tube nut / pressure fitting).
Six: Remove two wire clips
Seven: Remove platics hose (Spring Clamp)
Replace Inlet-Valve and reverse process///

Started as dishes not getting clean and I observed that the top arm was not spinning and there was very low water pressure coming out of the jets. After making sure the water level was up to the bottom of the heating element and making sure the jets were not clogged I checked the filter and chopper. It was a little tough to get the cover off of the chopper but once I did I could see that the chopper scraper was broken off and the shaft was broken. The screen was all clogged up with stuff. Ordered a new assembly and put it in making sure to compress the spring and make sure the gears lined up. Now it is running great.
I think the Kitchenaid is the same as the Whirlpools.

Got Maintenance Flyer out an read about problem
Removed access plate
Disconnectd water and drain
Removed anchor screws
Pulled unit out and disconnedted from Electric
Flipped on it's back
Ohmed out all heat related items and found discrepency with Thermisitor resistance
Ordered and received Part
Changed out Thermisitor
Checked wiring to Heater and replaced connections
Hooked electric up
Ran Diognostics per Maintenance flyer and cleared fault
Hooked back up and ran like a champ

The reason it took so long is because I put the old thermisitor back in and tryed to run the diognostics just to make sure that was the problem

I watched the instructional videos that showed how to replace the inlet fill hose/water inlet a couple of times. The repair was exactly as shown. No trouble at all.

Turned off water and disconnected line, then disconnected drain, turned off power and slid dishwasher out and turned turned upside down and removed hold down bolt ( it is a 3/8 head bolt) removed wire from motor and twisted motor assembly approximately 1/4 turn counter clock wise and removed old motor and seal assembly reinstalled new motor with new seal and rewired. Turned washer back upright and removed filter assembly and lower jet arm, removed cover for food disposal and reinstalled disposal blade back on pump drive reinstalled cover and filter assembly and jet arm. Slid unit back in place and anchored down to cabinet and turned water and power back on ran washer through a short cycle to clean any soap build up that was left inside and that was it, it all works just like new.

Replaced electronic control panel first which had an obvious defect (burned terminal). Still no power. Replaced fuse and works fine now. Took lots of reading to find out the dishwasher had a replacable fuse. Even the appliance store didn't know.

Via your web-site I was able to download the step-by-step screen-shot pictures. I was really surprised on how easy the detailed photo screen shots made the repair really easy! Thanks for making this repair a piece of cake. If I should ever need additional parts for any of my home appliances I will certainly order my parts through PartSelect.

This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.

First I had to remove the upper dish rack from the dishwasher. This was the most difficult part of the entire fix. I found the screw which holds the spray arm in place, Removed it and took off the old spray arm. Then I replaced the seal and put the entire thing back together, put the screw back in and replaced the rack. Then I ran a load of dishes and discovered the machine works just fine now.

Thanks to the previous review of this part, I was able to figure out how to do the replacement myself and saving $150 on a service call. The part is super easy to replace. Remove the screws on the door, lift the outside piece of the door up and off the hinges and then unplug the old piece. I had turned off the electricity to the dishwasher to avoid getting shocked. There were 4 hex nut screws holding the part in, removed those & popped out the old part. Installed the new one, put the door back on and the screws, turned it on and no leaks. This part was so easy to replace, even for a 52 year old woman like myself!

I ordered this part after the sanitized light on my dishwasher was flashing. The dishes were no longer drying. To replace the part, my husband pulled out the dishwasher and unscrewed some nuts (accessing under the heater through the side openings). The entire repair took under 15 minutes, and works perfectly. I have to mention that the heater was shaped differently than the one it replaced, but was a perfect fit in the clips.