DU810CWDB4 Whirlpool Dishwasher - Instructions

I watched the video, read all the post, they all said change the heater. So I did. Only there is a little fuse at the back of the unit that also goes bad and that was my issue. Have it ordered and will be going soon. That said, Part Select made finding and getting my parts a breeze!

After emptying the dishwasher the bottom had no water in it. A few hours later there was water in bottom. This told me the inlet valve was leaking. I took the bottom kick plate panels off. Directly in front on left side was the water inlet valve. Remove mounting screw, disconnect electrical connection, the water feed and discharge hose and remove valve. Install new valve. 100% DONE! Reinstall front panels after checking for leaks. At 71 years of age my typical 20 minute job actually took less time.

i took the inside door off and took the 2 switches out and replaced them; not too difficult.

Replaced the heating element that I ordered from Part Select. The repair cost me less than $25.00 and took me less than 5 minutes. I saved $650.00 by not buying that new dishwasher that my wife wanted to replace it with. I'm sure she will find some way to spend the money I saved(lol). Thank you Part Select.

1. Turn off the electrical switch that powers the dishwasher. 2. Open the door of the dishwasher and find the two phillips head screws that secure the top of the dishwasher to the kitchen counter. 3. Remove the screws. 4. Gently move the machine side-by-side a bit while pulling it out onto the kitchen tile (be careful, the water-supply hose, electric cord, and dishwasher drain hose may not be long enough to allow you to pull it out very far - don't break or kink the hoses). 5. Remove (pull off) the black plastic fastener located on the bottom/rear of each side of the dishwasher. 6. Remove the old surround. 7. Lay the new wrap in place and secure with the two plastic fasteners. 8. Push back into place, secure the two screws, check your hoses.

I just followed the video, and it now works perfectly! Thanks SOOO much! great site, great info.

The video was of great help. One area that gave me grief was placing the small part with points under the plastic mechanism in the door. I tried to push the points into the open slot. After watching the movie a few more times I was trying to put the part in backwards. A little more explanation at this point in the video would have been a tremendous help. Otherwise, thank you for the video.

The hardest part was locating the leak. After consulting the other repair suggestions, I concluded that the gasket was a little more worn on one side than the other so I ordered the gasket. The evening before the gasket arrived (quick delivery from partselect.com) I decided to shim out the old gasket with some old door insulation. It made the door harder to close but it didn't leak any more. When the gasket arrived I replaced the old with the new. It leaked more than ever. After reading more repair instructions, I decided to take apart the door vent and check it. It was packed solid with gunk. After a good cleaning, I put everything back together. No leaks! I tried every repair listed except the door vent. Guess steam is a good gunk conduit LOL. I supposed I didn't really need the new door gasket but I can tell the door has a tighter seal now. Here's a tip to watch for. If the door doesn't leak right away after the washer starts, take the door apart and look at the vent. It can look just fine from the outside and that's deceiving. Someone else mentioned the 'leak' timing that finally got my attention and lead to the 'fix.'

I read everyone else's fixes, which were very helpful but my solution of removing the plastic from the motor shaft was a lot easier than others. I simply used side cutters and made two cuts into that plastic piece and it Fell of. much easier than the person using several Dremmel blades to cut it off.. That was the most difficult phase until I grabbed my ole phone company side cuts and just cut it off in 15 seconds. Thanks for all the other tips. I love dealing with Parts Select, Fast and efficient. Jim W

Unplug dishwasher from electrical, water supply and drain hose. Pull dishwasher out from under cabinet. Unscrew water whirler from inside washer, then remove motor. Remove black boot from motor. Unscrew keeper from impellor housing. And you are there! Pull impellor off motor shaft. Replace seal first, then replace impellor. So easy this girl did it. But, this girl also does small engine repair!

Turned off power to dishwasher. Removed inner door panel. Cut wires as directed and installed new switches. Also installed new spring on soap door opener. Reassembled, ran and tested. Take your time, this repair is pretty simple.

Shut off water supplyand removed front cover below door. Remove flexable water line (wrench set), valve and bracket (nutdriver), and input hose (pliers). Installed flexable line on valve, replaced input hose on valve, then installed valve and bracket. Found screen on input to valve almost completely blocked with buildup of materail. Replaced front cover. result, bright, clean dished.

The repair was very simple. Simply pull the dishwasher out far enough to access the springs, remove the old with pliers and install the new springs in the same spot as the old ones.

Made sure the power and water were not connected to the dishwasher. Removed the bottom panel. Unhooked the old part. Put some plumber's tape around the threads, hooked it all back up. Runs just as good.

Trial and error. The spring was difficult to install, the pin and door were easy.