DU900PCDB3 Whirlpool Dishwasher - Instructions

installed a new rack

I replaced the seals per the video instructions.

So my dishwasher is 20 some years old. Woke up in the morning to smell burning plastic and the dishwasher never moving to the next part in the cycle. I thought it was the high limit, then the cycling thermostat(because cycling you'd think it was cycling wrong). Nope. It was working fine. I used a multimeter to test the high limit(ohm reading will be closed at room temp) and for the cycling(will be open at room temp, so use a multimeter with alligator clips and a lighter to trigger it to close). All of my existing parts were fine. So I went to the timer and tested with alligator clips, each part that connected during the timing cycle. Sure enough. On the rinse and pump water out part, the contact point wasnt connecting due to corrosion and a bent prong. So I rebent it and cleaned all the contact points. All you need to do on these old washers is pull out the timer and pull off the thin plastic "sheild" over the thing. Guess what. I have a working dishwasher after having done the impossible and fixed my timer. So for those who have a dish washer that won't advance, but you can hear your timer advancing with the clicks, this is your problem. Saved myself an unknown amount of money because they don't make my timer anymore.

Both springs (8066018 and 3368999) were replaced as recommended in your troubleshooting guide, but did not resolve the problem. Finally the Dual Motor, 3374501, was replaced. During the above, the plastic face of the door fell off, which created a nuisance task before proceeding to fix the original problem. However, while replacing the motor, I realized the purpose of the two, T-shaped studs sticking out of the motor. It is absolutely necessary that these sit inside the slots which engages the sliding plastic cover, which is spring loaded, in order to engage the release of the soap dispenser door. It was truly a learning experience, but I got it done.

Swapped out the old upper dish rack with a new one. A video made the change simple.

Unscrewed old access panel from dishwasher. Took out insulation and glued to new access panel. Took off bottom panel and placed on new front access panel. New panel fit perfectly on front of dishwasher. Hard part was getting the bottom panel to stay on new front access panel, but hammered it in place protecting the new access panel with Styrofoam cushion. Took about 45 minutes from start to finish. Used DW-40 around screw holes, because of age of dishwasher and rust setting up over years (22 years old).

placed new silverware holder in dihwasher. Very easy.

Removed and replaced leaking water inlet valve, 10 minutes and saved me a hundred in plumber fees.

Pulled out the old with needle nose pliers. Pushed in new door seal with fingers.

The whole job took less than 5 minutes...no tools were needed The diagnosis was right on the money

I grabbed the lower right end of the gasket with my Leatherman Tool pliers and pulled out the old gasket.
I installed the new gasket. No cleaning was necessary.
It took less than five minutes. It now works like new.
I ordered the part with standard delivery and it was here in just a couple of days. Very easy fix.

I needed to cut 1/4inch off the panel and unscrew the side piece which held it in place....
insert the new piece and put back the 3 screws. Done!

The door seal was easy. In less than 15 minutes I peeled the old one off and installed the new one. Also the new seal arrived in 2 days. In replacing the seal I noticed a screw laying in the bottom of the dishwasher. As I removed the lower washing arm which was real easy I noticed that the plastic bearing for the lower arm was no good. Late Thursday evening I went on line and ordered the bearing, and to my surprise it was delivered to my house on Saturday. In 15 minutes I had the bearing installed and we were back in business. I'm just amazed at how easy your web site is to use, and the promptness of the parts delivery. You guys are great.

watched a video

the plastic pin that retains the spring has a head on one end that hits a plastic stop on the door to keep it from coming out. I used a small grinder and made a flat spot on the head diameter to make it easy to slide out. This is easier than trying to pry the door off the pin at the two retaing snaps. I was conderned these pin retainer clips were brittle and would break off.
Once the pin is slid out, it is a matter to hold the new spring holes in line with the pin. rotate pin so flat side you ground is turned up, so pin will not move out that way. Tiij about an hour