DP940PWPQ1 Whirlpool Dishwasher - Instructions

Took old one off , installed new one!!

1 Screw 5 minutes thanks for the quick service will definitely use ya'll next time

Got the new door and tried to put it on. The door went on very easily. However, there's a spring that opens the door when the main wash cycle comes around. I never did get that spring right. None of the drawings showed the correct position and after an hour of trying to get it to work right, I gave up. The door comes open slightly (but not because of the spring) when it's time, and the liquid soap runs out due to gravity. But I wouldn't try to use soap powder because the door doesn't come open far enough.

My dishwasher started leaking at the door. I checked the level, door seal, fill float, etc. Nothing worked. Another reviewer of these parts said to replace the Seal, Lower Sprayarm, the Wash Arm Bearing Ring, and the wash arm. I replaced the seal and the bearing, not the washer arm, as my spray had little to no wear. This fixed the problem! If you dishwasher leaks at the door, it is possible these parts are worn and replacing them wil fix the leak. Thanks to the other reviewer I now have no leaks! Buy a spare nut because they break very easy if overtorqued!

I have a new faucet so I remove the screen then I used an extender ring put on your adapter an got the washer to run.

First I removed the plastic bolt that holds the wash arm in place This exposed the upper ring that was worn out . I then lifted the arm off which exposed the larger ring. I replaced that ring, and then I put the arm back on and replaced the upper ring. I put the plastic bolt back in place and the repair was complete.-- Really Easy plus the dishwasher gets the dishes clean now

I removed the bottom spray arm and replaced the worn part. Now the arm turned freely and was performing as it was designed to do. I appreciate parts select for having the part available since the manufacturer no longer supported the model.

First I read the other repair stories and knew it was a relatively easy repair. I removed the end caps on the front of the top dish rack and removed it for ease of access to the part. I then removed the two screws holding in the old part observing how it was positioned to make sure the new part was replaced in the same manner. I put the new part in place and screwed in place and replaced the dish rack. Everything is working just fine.

Removed the lower spray arm assembly thumb screw and lifted off the spray arm assembly. The lower seal had disintigrated - couldn't even find any pieces in the filter. After reassembly with the new seal and bearing I turned the spray arm by hand to ensure it was not binding. There was still was, what I would consider, some excessive wobble. I fashioned a shim washer out of some plastic from a Folgers coffee can lid and installed it on the thumbscrew threaded shaft and tightened it all down finger tight - it works very well and now, and no wobble.
I relaced the upper spray arm seal while I was doing the job (both the upper and lower seals are the same part #). I figured it would go out on me eventually, so I might as well replace it while I was doing the lower arm work. Kept the old upper arm seal as an emergency replacement.

Cleaned the filter screen of all debris (it is amazing what collects there over time). Cleaned the stainless tub with some spray Greased Lightning, ran the rinse cycle, and then put a few tablespoons of citric acid crystals in the soap dispenser and ran the dishwasher on NORMAL WASH with temperature boost.
Looks new inside; cleans the dishes, glasses and utensils well (no water spotting); and is nice and quite (like when it was new).

Removed the washer from the cabinet, although the repair kit could have been replaced without this step. However, it still made it easier. Removed the spray arm assembly and the top cover to the motor. I had to block the motor to keep it from turning while I unscrewed part number 11. The rest was very self explanatory. The "impeller" was seized onto the motor shaft (20 years old) so I had to use a chisel to break what remained off, then clean some corrosion from the shaft. The repair kit worked and the pictorial parts diagram that came with the kit was very clear. Bottom line: "Easy peasy, lemon squeezy!" Great web site for diagnosis and parts diagrams!

Husband watched your repair video. Everything went well and we are very pleased.

I ORDERED THE PART THAT WAS EASY BUT WHILE THE MACHINE WAS USED FOR HOW LONG I DON'T KNOW WITH OUT THE CAP IT GOT FILLED WITH FOOD AND JUNK. FIRST THING I HAD TO DO WAS EXAMIN THE DOOR AS TO HOW I COULD CLEAN THIS THING OUT. I REMOVED 6 SCREWS THAT HELD THE DOOR TOGETHER AND PULLED EASY CAUSE I DIDN'T KNOW WHAT I WAS GETTING INTO. NO PROBLEM THERE WAS NO ELECTRIC PLUGS HOOKED TO THE DOOR. I TOOK IT OUT SIDE AND STARTED USING VINIGAR AND POURING IT INTO THE HOLE AND SHAKING THEN TRYING TO GET IT BACK OUT. WELL THERE IS ONLY ONE POSITION THAT WILL LET THE VINEGAR BACK OUT. I HAD TO HOLD IT SIDEWAYS THEN TILT FORWARD AND IT WOULD RUN OUT AND BRING SOME JUNK WITH IT. THIS WAS A TIME CONSUMING PROCESS BEING YOU COULD NOT SEE INSIDE TO KNOW HOW MUCH JUNK WAS IN THERE. JUST POUR AND DUMP. AND DON'T FOR GET TO SHAKE TO LOOSEN ANY THING LEFT INSIDE.LOL I WAS VERY PROUD OF MYSELF NOT KNOWING FOR SURE IF I FIXED IT OR NOT BUT I TOOK A SHOT I HAD. I DID SOME SCRUBBING AND DEGREASING ON THE UNDERSIDE OF THE BOTTOM OF THE DOOR BEFORE I REASSEMBLED IT. THAT WAS EASY AND I CROSSED MY FINGERS ANY WAY. I GOT OUT MY NEW PART AND THE JET DRY I BOUGHT AND STATED TO FILL THE DISPENSER AND IT TOOK HALF THE BOTTLE.YEA !!! I PUT THE CAP ON AND COULDN'T WAIT TO DO A LOAD OF DISHES. EVERY THING IS LOOKING GOOD NOW. THANK YOU PART SELECT FOR MAKING GETTING THE PARTS I NEEDED SO EASY AND SHOWING DIAGRAMS SO I HAD THE RIGHT PART. I COULDN'T HAVE DONE IT WITH OUT YOU.

All I had to do is lay the shield over the top and sides and used a couple of clips to hold in place as it was slid under the counter top. It couldn’t have been easier.We had searched everywhere for this replacement shield and parts select was the the only ones that had it. Very good service and fast delivery,

Mine is a Ultra Wash 111
I followed the repair video on your site but my dishwasher was a little different. Not enough that anyone could still understand the video and not get it disassembled. The video shows two ball checks but mine doesn't use them where the videos shows. I put them in anyway because I called Whirlpool, who made my washer, and they assured me that they should be in there. They got sucked through the dump impeller and plugged the discharge tube so I had to disassemble it again and take the ball checks out. Lucky for me nothing got damaged. I then got a hold of someone on your chat line that got me to the correct parts view that shows where the ball check is suppose to go on my washer. During working on my washer I realized the squealing was because the bottom bearing on the motor needed oil. So all and all I'm happy because it runs quiet and it works fine. Thanks Greg

I used the screwdriver to pry the old lid off of the horizontal pin upon which it rotates. One must be careful before removing the old lid to note how the return spring is deployed. The short legs on the spring must be in the lip of the lid before you snap the new lid onto the horizontal pin. It was helpful to lubricate the two catches on the lid that snap on the pin with some liquid soap before attempting to snap them on the pin. After the lid is snapped into place and the short legs of the coil spring are in the lip of the lid, use needle nose pliers to attach the other end of the coil spring to the pillar where it was before you removed the old lid. There are videos showing how to do this on Youtube. The spring part is a little tricky. The video makes it look a bit easier than it is..