DU900PCDZ3 Whirlpool Dishwasher - Instructions

Easy fix. It’s a screw on by hand piece.

Removed seal from door with flat head screwdriver, replaced with new seal. Actually took longer to get out of the box rather than to fix!

after that every thing went very well

Followed instructions as the videos on this page show.

unhook electric & unscrewed 2 metal screws unhooked water line,& replaced new one & reversed hooking up all it worked fine

Removed old basket and popped in new basket.

I poked the old gasket with a fork tine so I could get a grip on the old gasket as I didn't have pliars, pulled it out in less than 4 seconds, folded the new gasket in half and started center top of the slot the old gasket was in and pushed the new gasket in on each side from the top to the bottom. Very easy. I'd say it took me longer to open the package with my teeth than in doing all of the above.

follow instructions, unscrew old part, screw in new part, worked like new

Replacement part came. It was broken. I took pics of it, and send the pics and an email to PartSelect. They put another replacement part in the mail on the spot. I was shocked! The 2nd one arrived in perfect condition. BONUS POINT to PartsSelect!
Tom Houser
Roanoke, VA

We read your help site and was able to find what was causing our water filling probelms. Order the valve intake part and made the repair and the dishwasher works like new. You saved us a repair bill from the professionals and they couldn,t done a better job. I will recommand to site to everyone. Thanks Again

Nozzle cap rubber housing was split and cracked. It simply unscrews. The replacement was a matter of screwing the new nozzle cap on. My wife was trusted with this installation. Believe me, this indicates how easy it was.

So my dishwasher is 20 some years old. Woke up in the morning to smell burning plastic and the dishwasher never moving to the next part in the cycle. I thought it was the high limit, then the cycling thermostat(because cycling you'd think it was cycling wrong). Nope. It was working fine. I used a multimeter to test the high limit(ohm reading will be closed at room temp) and for the cycling(will be open at room temp, so use a multimeter with alligator clips and a lighter to trigger it to close). All of my existing parts were fine. So I went to the timer and tested with alligator clips, each part that connected during the timing cycle. Sure enough. On the rinse and pump water out part, the contact point wasnt connecting due to corrosion and a bent prong. So I rebent it and cleaned all the contact points. All you need to do on these old washers is pull out the timer and pull off the thin plastic "sheild" over the thing. Guess what. I have a working dishwasher after having done the impossible and fixed my timer. So for those who have a dish washer that won't advance, but you can hear your timer advancing with the clicks, this is your problem. Saved myself an unknown amount of money because they don't make my timer anymore.

I replaced the seals per the video instructions.

Both springs (8066018 and 3368999) were replaced as recommended in your troubleshooting guide, but did not resolve the problem. Finally the Dual Motor, 3374501, was replaced. During the above, the plastic face of the door fell off, which created a nuisance task before proceeding to fix the original problem. However, while replacing the motor, I realized the purpose of the two, T-shaped studs sticking out of the motor. It is absolutely necessary that these sit inside the slots which engages the sliding plastic cover, which is spring loaded, in order to engage the release of the soap dispenser door. It was truly a learning experience, but I got it done.

Since there were no printed instructions, we looked at the photo schematic.
Reassembly using the photo was easy by putting the old rack alongside the new one and adjusting the new rack spacing to match the old one.
We also had new wheels which snapped on.
We were delighted to repair and replace this good, older dishwasher rather than purchase a new one!